Terrapin Z

53420-E4100 insulators are still available from Nissan. My site says $64.21 each for the shorter 240, early 260, and 280 Front. 280 rears are NLA but you might be able to use the Z depot space on the shorter one.

I had found in a couple of SU tuning instructions about lifting the pins to check the mixture. Haynes, Chitons, and even the FSM all only mention this pin as a way to determine if the piston and/or needle is aligned correctly and not sticking for any other reason. The other publications I found had, not only the method above, but referred to lifting the pin very slightly (1/32 the web page says "good luck" about this) to help determine the idle AFR to some degree. If lifted any more than that they will stall that carb out like "site" says ^ This one from the web : http://www.sucarbs.com/?page_id=20 Under "test fuel mixtures" And the attached Tuning SU Cabs book. I am sure I read about the pins in another book, but can not find that reference right now. (page 25 I think) I'm no expert by any means, but mine a running pretty good. Tuning_SU_Carbs.pdf

Did you get one to try? They are geared pretty tall. Here is some more info on the different transmissions. http://datsunworld.blogspot.com/2016/03/datsun-l-series-transmission.html

A very nice looking Z indeed, Congrats!! Many questions like this are answered with "What do you want to do with the car?" Cruise, race, show, rally, tour, some of two or three......more? The cool thing about these cars is mix and match. Any "B" trans should fit you car 73 just fine, no real mods. It's going from "A" to "B" or "A, B to C" thats the extra work. "B to B" is bolt up. R180 to R180 with different ratios is easy, as is R200 to R200. R180 to R200 needs a few more parts. An easy upgrade, IMO. The thing is to tune it to how you drive it. These are not all the options, but popular ones. Enjoy that new Z........

Yes, I'd like to put that on my Starbuck's Gift card please.

FAQ says they accept all these methods of payment. I think they prefer Gift Card. We accept any kind of payment: Gift Card, Money Gram, Check, PayPal, Money Order, Wire Transfer and Bank Transfer. However, the payment method chosen for transactions made on a Classified Site depends on the seller's preferences. No matter the chosen payment method, the money will always go in our third party Escrow Company (Oancea WBD LTD). Why am I being asked to send the payment using Gift Card? We are offering our services on Craigslist and all major Classified Sites such as Oodle, Craigslist which are the largest marketplaces in the world. We can handle a certain number of transactions per day and we often assign Gift Card payments associated with eAutoStock Traders. Thanks to the CARD Act, gift-card owners can use them when and how they want without worrying about burdensome fees and the fear of identity theft, most gift cards usually have no fees, no personal details or sensitive banking accounts shared, very cheap, fast and secure online form of payment. Gift card had been created especially for safer online purchases. However, we can only use Gift Card from countries and cities where we have agents.

$8700 bid and reserve not met yet, I see 2 days and a couple hours left on the clock. They do seem to go for high prices, for the condition they are in. I've done better on Craigslist and Offerup.

My thought too, was some turbo set up. I only see one SU and it is in the front of the apparatus.

https://www.copart.com/vehicleFinderSearch/?displayStr=Datsun,WA,[1969 TO 1978]&searchStr={"MISC":["%23MakeCode:DATS OR %23MakeDesc:Datsun","%23VehicleTypeCode:VEHTYPE_V","%23LocState:\"WA\"","%23LotYear:[1969 TO 1978]"],"sortByZip":false,"buyerEnteredZip":null} The intake looks a little strange to me, anyone know what's going on there. $12,500 Buy It Now.

I agree, I thought $5K was too much when it was on CL. I had considered going to look at it as it is not that far from me, but the money gods said don't do it!! Even if all the "early" parts were there for parting (or hoarding) it was still a pretty steep price even for that. Now at $8500 thats just BAT crazy.

I would rather bid on this and put $20K+ in to it and know it was done right. Not a low vin but a nice 70 none the less. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-Z-Series/323796794406?hash=item4b63cafc26:g:5EcAAOSwLVhczKwT Of course no rust or rot, Blue chip special too.

This was recently listed in Portland for $5k and was up for a few weeks. Now it is on eBay for $8500 out of Mt Vernon, WA https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-Z-Series-240Z/163675642459?hash=item261bd41a5b:g:wKUAAOSwqUBczJik Interesting how these cars have progressed in perceived value. A 5K investment should yield $3500 profit in 10 days. (less fees of course)

I rescind my advice, and concede with the experts here on the forum. I humbly offer this opinion though. The ones without oil that I have run across, are rusted inside the tube. The opening at the gland nut, is in no way water tight. I would put some type of oil (or grease) in there, enough to fully cover the body of the strut but not spill out (50ml, 230cc, or 229cc or 233cc or 49.8 ml), no way to be exact. Some stays in the coffee pot when you tip it. I am sure you will find a suitable answer and proceed with the upgrade.

https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=240z+front+strut+replacement&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 Should be something there you can use. The strut fluid is covered in the factory service manual under "Front Axle & Front Suspension", FA26 through FA40. Also important is the gland nut tensioning, and air bleeding. The fluid called for in the FSM is Nissan genuine oil (Nisseki Shock Absorber Oil A-1) at the correct amount of 290cc per strut. I think ATF is what most use now. Ford or Chevy type, does not matter. I think the fluid is intended to dissipate heat, and prevent corrosion.

My comment was referring to pics 105 and 107. The paint looks to me like it is on top of the jute. It almost looks like the spare tub was repainted sometime after the rotisserie job. I read through the listing and saw the pages of notes. It states some undercoating was used inside and underneath the car, that might explain the peel bumps in the spare tub hole (pic 103) The text below the picture of the steering wheel in the BAT description states it was only driven 1500 miles since the restoration. Not driven a lot and, expectedly not parked outside since it was repainted.

I'm thinking "Three Pedal" has a buyer lined up for a sizable amount, overseas perhaps. He is just in the roll of a broker. JMO. 457,000 miles though that is some serious cross country trips. How fun would that have been to travel all over the place in a Z back in the 70's - 80's. The green paint around the spare wheel well looks pretty shabby for a resto. You would think the restorer would have done better there.

I have Illumina 3015's & BZ 3016's on my car with the Tokico lowering springs all around, and it sits low and level. I don't see why the stock springs would push it up so much. Just out of curiosity where did you find the last two BZ3015's? I had wanted to have a replacement set but can't find them at all.

Good point Patcon, The last pic does look toe'd in like it was not settled. Might be the pic angle? The parts manual shows a different stock front springs for manual or automatic, with or without A/C, and even right to left, by part number. The stock rear part numbers are different from both of the fronts, and had only 2 seater and 2+2 options (plus an optional heavier weight spring)

The lowering springs from Tokico are different front to rear as well. Some peeps have put them on the wrong ends of the car before. As I remember the springs have a number 50XX and a F for front, or R for rear on the coils. make sure you have these on the correct ends of the car, front to rear.

@Mike I have never watched a BAT auction near the end as I did this one. I don't see the commentary being any real issue in the way of the bidders. Trolling is status quo now-a-days. The fact that BAT gives you 2 minutes after every new bid is more like a real auction, as opposed to eBay with a set end time, you get snipers. (still lots of step in bidders near the end) This is like the Going, going, gone call. The real bidders know whats going on and if they have been outbid. If they want to step it up they have 2 min. to place a new bid and start the 2 min warning again. This one went up nearly 15K in the last 10 min. Trolls or no trolls if the car is legit, the bidders know it, and act accordingly. I am glad to see it went nearly right back up to where it was before the issues arose. Briank105 had been in the mix for a long while, and persistence paid off for him. He now has a very nice example of a Z.

$40K

T P C struck me as a vintage car flipper. Seems to have a bunch of $ to throw around like upping the bid on this BAT car. Hard to fathom how he can make much profit having so much in the buy.

The high bidder perhaps?? I do not have an Instagram account but just googled the name. Looks like a good possibility though. "Three Pedal Collective" http://picdeer.com/threepedalcollective

I agree with Patcon, you need some sort of vent, or you get vapor lock = no fuel. Even with just one vent line tagged to the filler tube bung, it is the gas cap that does the venting. Check that as well.

If I had known of a good local rebuilder that was the same rate I would have done that. If I needed another one done I would try Carls peeps in Portland