Terrapin Z

Congrats on the purchase and the trip home as well.... While the issues seem minor, I would still recommend going through all the systems before driving too much. Brakes, suspension, steering tie rod ends, ball joints, electrical, etc. While it does have low miles and is probably in great shape, the rubber bits tend to dry out and crack, old grease gets hard and crumbles. I expect you know these things, but err to the side of caution and check them out for yourself, Just to be safe.

I did not call to check but Motorsports Auto still lists them for $150 + a big core charge. I got mine from them years back. Still working good too. https://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc? Make sure to check the reaction disc is in place when you reassemble it.

It is an old S30 Chassis and Body manual, I can't find any date in it. Engine removal but no tear down sections (different book).Transmission, Drive line, Suspension, chassis, body, and Electrical etc. All pics are of a series 1 car, a couple are of pic's / drawings are even RHD. I think I got this one off eBay. You making it to the monthly meeting in Puyallup tomorrow? I can bring it if you want to check it out.

Good news, the button is easy as well. I saw you had the schematic but it does not explain the relay letters, I interpret them as B= battery , H = horn and S = switch. In the FSM I have the S and H look switched in position but the flow is still the same.

Darn spellcheck.... Was your relay missing Don? Looks to be the same relay for all 240 "s and looks the same as this lesser example, off a 73. Green to the horn on "H" Green / Red to power at fuse box on 'B" Green /Black to horn switch on "S"

I did not intend to imply it would affect anything. Just a plausible answer as to where they typically end up.

Once you take the plunger pressure off the disc, they sometimes just fall into the body of the booster. If you see it is not where it should be you might try pulling the booster off again shake it a bit and if you hear something bouncing around in there you can usually bounce it toward the opening and get it out.

You mentioned you pulled the booster off to have it tested. Like Diseazd says that reaction disc can fall off the plunger and end up inside the booster shell. Plagued me for a while, Once I fixed that everything worked fine. It is worth a second look to eliminate that as the problem.

Completely your choice. I think they look really good as well. I looked through a lot of his decals and think whom ever is doing the work (him or someone else) does a fine job. For plates and decals you cant get elsewhere these look like a good option. I do this too. On a lot of the parts cars I have picked up I find these painted over even ground on, rusted, and clean. with just 4 screws it is not like you are altering something like the door jam, which has rivets. Some of my collection showing various stages of condition. I save them from parts cars, and any I find at junk yards. Like dog tags of the fallen. I never understood why people wouldn't take them off before painting or restoring an engine bay. To each their own I suppose.

Trying out the 3D printing would be interesting for some things. I've seen some things that look pretty good and other that look horrible. I guess like anything, it depends on how good your equipment is. Buy a bargain cheepo printer and you get mediocre pieces....likewise an expensive nice printer will yield better quality. It is sad he charges USD for CN purchases. While these plates and some of the other stickers are reasonable. I think a lot of his pricing is a bit on the high side.

Like Wheee! says....... Sure enough they show one for the 77-78 280Z for $59.00. Here is the link : https://www.zeddsaver.com/collections/datsun-z-car-id-plates I think they are in Canada but also list an address in Blaine.

I'm pretty sure the black writing on the tags is a painted on stencil. Aggressive cleaning with harsh a substance can remove all the black paint leaving just the stamped numbers. Just a possibility. I learned this when trying to clean some overspray off of one, and found the cleaner I was using was starting to take the writing off as well.

"Use adequate ventilation in confined areas"

@wheee! I believe he was referring to the shafts that go in the differential, having a right and left of different lengths.

Nissan does still show them available 38225-N3100 Side Gear Circlip $2.54 each. Finding the old ones or pieces thereof might be more of a challenge. The clips are the same for all the R180's

Nice find, indeed. It does look like all the emblems are shaved (hood, Pillars and hatch). Probably the fenders too. I'm with hiyabrad, if you don't buy it............

I does look like 1955 was a new start for the company. Perhaps they started a new numbering system at that time, after recovering from the war devistation.

My 73 has plugs on top, and open on the bottom. Both sides. I tend to agree with the production hoist / trolly theory, it looks like they would be in the right place for balance.

Thanks for the confirmation Kats. A very lucky find indeed. The only booth with any Datsun parts (most are Ford and Chevy) They had a few drive train parts and misc hardware. Now to clean it up and place it in it's rightful spot in my car. Interesting to see if the date code holds true in prior years as you speculated. Need to find some older cars with jacks?

@kats I found a jack at a swap meet today. Thanks to your help in this thread, I knew it was an early one. Although I could not make out the date stamp while I was there. Too much dirt and a bad stamping. I ended up buying it anyway as I talked the guy down to $10. I figured it was worth that being an early style. When I got home, I cleaned it up as best I could and think it is P F Y which would work great for me as I have a 6-70 car. and this should be 1970/6/24. The stamping is bad though, do you think I have read it right. It still needs to be cleaned up.

California Datsun?!? Not sure I would trust them that it was truly NOS. They have been shady in the past. Just my opinion from hearsay, I have never bought from them.

I neglected to reply after your dash sold. Looks like you ended at a good price. eBay auctions always have snipe bidding at the end when the item is good and there are multiple bidders. Well done!

I was surprised as well. I was never going to use these as I have a 70 with 4 screw carbs. The PO of the 73 had bead blasted the entire carbs and said they were rebuilt, but a quick inspection indicated they were not rebuilt just cleaned up visually. I had never thought any of the flat tops were worth much for resale. I still kept them thinking some parts might be needed by someone. I would think the 180 mesh you have is closer to the stock mesh. As for the filters being unnecessary, I disagree. All cars, new and old ones have some sort of fuel filter. To each there own I guess. I might have to try these on eBay.......

I never did mess around with the flat tops much. These are pretty fragile filters. Just thought I would check them out following your post. I agree with Zed Head, many other ways to filter. Quite a challenge to try and reproduce these, IMO. I can appreciate your attempt.

No problem, The one close up wheel pic you showed was for a late 73 (TOPY 11 73). I was kinda looking for 70 wheels. Looks like your having a fun time with the car. Enjoy....... If you haven't already I highly suggest you download this It can answer a lot of your questions. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/66-1970-240z-factory-service-manual-body-chassis-volume/ and this one: https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/20-1970-71-240z-factory-service-manuals/