Terrapin Z

Shipping to me in WA says $67.50 @JLPurcell just curious as to why you listed the condition as "remanufactured"

I agree with Site, I check the part numbers up on a factory site like Courtesy or Nissanparts.cc and see if it is available. I then go to my local Nissan dealer and order it. Usually sales tax is less than the shipping charge from Texas (Courtesy), at least for me in WA. Nissan still has a lot of parts available, you just have to check before buying an overpriced part on Ebay. I made a deal with my local Nissan dealer so he sells me parts at the internet rate, instead of the retail they usually sell at. Worth asking for IMO. A trans pilot bushing they quoted $15+ MSRP for, I bought for $3.77 with the internet price. Just saying they jack up the price for the unsuspecting.

Salvage title??

Mine are all from 240's, and all have closed holes. I searched for 510 lights and they have the open side.

There have been a few different handles, The 74 260Z is a one off.

Estate sales are usually like a fancy garage sale run by an outside company (afternoonestatesales.com). This one looks like it goes 3 days, no pre advertised pricing that I could find. You could contact them and see if they will tell you the price. OR Just show up in TX with a big wad of cash, and take it home. Nice looking Honda 90 too.

I guess I will find out down the road. Ha, they don't use medical vans, they just cut you up in the garage.

Looks like the image has been used a few times.

There is another posting up from about the same time, calling this ad out as a scam. https://bellingham.craigslist.org/cto/6100054621.html While a lot of these ads do turn out to be scams, I have come away with free or very inexpensive deals on cars.

I know right, Nice cars and a huge garage. After I called he texted back and said the car was "sold" Who knows !??!!

When I ran across this ad it had been up for 18 hours. The car was probably gone 17.5 hours ago. I still tried, anyone here grab it up?

I looked up the Roadster wheel and see the tabs you spoke of, I don't think it is one of those. The only other Datsun I have had was a 510, those had 13" Thanks for the info and luck.

You know Gav I am not sure where this came from. The earliest car I had was a 3/70 but it was just a shell really and did not come with any wheels. Next was a 6/70 that might be the one this came from. A rusty thing that this may have been in the spare hole. All the other cars were later 72, 73, and 74. I hade 5 stock rims with tires that I used to roll cars with flat mags around. Someone wanted 4 of them so I dismounted them all and found one was a 41/2 rim. I took a closer look and saw the date. While it is perry rusty and somewhat pitted. I thought one of the early restorers might clean it up some and use it as the spare in their cars. (??IDK??) I'm open to offers, I'd hate to just scrap it.

In the hoard, I found I have a 12-69 rim. It has some rust, as shown in the pics. It is an early rim, so Is it worth $60 shipped?

Don, This is the one I used, currently for me it indicates I am missing a plug in, and no longer works for me. Perhaps you have said plug in and can utilize it. http://www.webring.org/l/rd?ring=zcars;id=157;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwebspace.webring.com%2Fpeople%2Fcz%2Fz_design_studio%2F It almost looks like the site might be completely NLA to me, but try at least. I looked for other trans calc. sites and really never found any as good as this one. At leased for me. This thread is enticing the voices to just dive into my swap now. I have a blown water hose and need to drain the coolant to fix it anyway, why not pull the motor and trans now for clean up and T swap. I was thinking the same for mine, ZX outer, inner and a new fork boot.

http://www.specclutches.com/706234/

It is the Exedy clutch and a SPEC flywheel.

I haven't started yet. I picked up the trans locally about 8 months ago, and had been gathering parts for it. I then found the R180 3:70 K style and had that shipped in. I swapped out the stubs in it so it installed like the stock 240's 3:36 instead of the clip in stubs. I found the flywheel and a clutch kit next. Then ordered all new seals, gaskets, the speedo drive, the rubber bits, bushings and new oil. The only thing I was missing was a shifter as I spoke of earlier. Having located two now I plan on doing the swap in the near future. As for the driveline I understand the difference from an "A" trans to a "B" trans is only a 1/6 of an inch in length. Therefor I expect the stock driveline will work just fine. I had new U joints put in when I got the car and was changing out the bushings in the rear. I also put in a 3:54 rear end at that time, as the PO had installed a 4:11 set. Too tall for me. Looks like it might be you telling me of the idiosyncrasies of the job. Do post about it!!

Oh that is central Puget Sound salt water patina for sure. Very distinctive, you won't find anything with this rich of color around Portland. Too much fresh water down there. Astoria maybe......The blend of fresh and salt waters.

That piece came from the early 260 I found on Vashon Island. Surrounded by salt water and buried in the bushes. It takes years to establish a fine patina like that. The part is in the mail.

Out of the 8 of these that I have, this one is in the worst condition. The switch seems okay. Yours if you want it Jim. Shipping would be about $8

Don, My reasons for opting for a lighter flywheel is in the same realm as EuroDat, to compensate for the 240mm disc. It will also make the car rev a "little" quicker as it is still under the stock package weight. Agreed the Fidanza is too light for street use at 10.7 lbs. I think mine is 14.5 lbs and with the 240mm clutch weight it should be a happy medium (full clutch plate, not the 6 puck race plate.) I have read it is easier to stall the car from a dead stop so there will be a little foot reaction learning curve I'm sure. With the cam I have my car likes the higher RPM's, 3000 and up range anyway, I wanted to make the throttle response a little snappier. You could just have two or three pounds taken off yours, to gain a little of that snap but retain all of the daily driver ability. You don't have to buy a new lightened flywheel there are places that turn and balance the stock one. Option options options.......Do what you think is the best for your driving style.

The stock 72 shifter can work with some grinding like Siteunseen mentioned. For the earlier cars like your's and mine (70) with the A trans. I hear some trimming is still needed at the tunnel opening and possibly the console too. This is the stock one Some take and bend a s curve in the one above and it clears the tunnel. This is sorta like the Nismo one that is NLA. I just bought a parts car and it had one like this in it. A Nissan truck has this one that I have been looking for. I finally found one at Tumwater Pick N Pull The one on the bottom. It has the same base as the ZX shifter. Don, if you are going with a 3:70 (same one I picked) you need the blue speedo cog, you can get just the cog 32703-78102 and mount it into the ZX holder. Your old 4 speed holder will not work in the new ZX trans. If your 2+2 trans does not have the holder you can still get the assembly from Nissan with a blue cog in it (32702-58S18) While the trans is out I would replace the front and rear seals too. Agreed EuroDat, It is a whole package either way all 225mm or all 240mm I am going with a 240mm kit with the 240mm collar that came with my 2+2 trans and a lighted flywheel. I weighed my new 240mm kit against the old stock 225mm kit (flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disc) and it was only 6 or 7 pounds lighter overall. I didn't want it to rev like an indy car. (too light) TZ

I think there are 3 different ones, with the later two being very similar other than the slight difference in the 5th ratio. 280 ZX (8/78-7/79) FS5W71B 5 spd "B" type 3.321 2.077/37% 1.308/37% 1/24% 0.864/14% also 810 Maxima 280 ZX (8/79-6/80) FS5W71B 5 spd "B" type 3.062 1.858/39% 1.308/30% 1/24% 0.773/23% 280 ZX (7/80-6/83) FS5W71B 5 spd "B" type 3.062 1.858/39% 1.308/30% 1/24% 0.745/26% I believe you use one clutch or the other. The throwout collar is different as well. You will need to address the shifter clearance at the tunnel opening. I am putting the same set up together myself. I just found a shifter that should work without having to trim anything out of the tunnel. I haven't tested it yet though.

I can offer two complete carbs for parts if you are interested in that option.