Terrapin Z

I have just pulled the dash out of my 70 parts car. Should be the same bracket. I hope these help you out.

She is dusty and dirty and has not run for quite a while. But..... She fired up with little effort, and settled into a nice idle. Looking forward to putting on some miles this year. She turns 45 this year. I hope this is a great year for all the Z's out there.

I haven't been on here for a while but have a 70 I intend to post in the classifieds for a part out. I still have the pedal box if you are interested Glassguy.

Those look like possible options to try Namerow and Blue. Seeing how I am not in it for any real $ I might just give the sawdust epoxy a go and see how it turns out. I'm in no big rush to get this done. Originally I was thinking of adding some wood stain to the epoxy. I am not sure how that would react together chemically. The sawdust shouldn't have any effect on the epoxy in that sense. Now I need to find some dark cherry wood or some deep mahogany to cut up and make sawdust out of.

Thanks for the offers Jim and Jim. I have a 72 wheel that is an easier clean up. I was just trying to find out if this S1 was even fixable to the point where it look proper, not necessarily a show piece. I just hadn't seen any posts about fixing any crack in the "wood" part. Seems to me like zKars Jim said big $ and a lot of work to make it look right. Fortunately, I am not in it much so it might just end up on Ebay and the the bidders decide what it is worth. Seriously though, has anyone attempted a repair like this, even just a small outer rim crack? Just curious now.

I did a bunch of searches using different text and could not find any threads regarding repairing cracked "wood" on the steering wheel. I have a series 1 wheel and when I removed the cheesy wheel cover I found these cracks. My thought was to fill them with some stained epoxy. I am just not sure how that would work out especially the the spoke meets the "wood". It looks like the rust goes under the "wood" and I expect would keep rusting and splitting the connection. I saw a lot of posts for cleaning the "wood" and repainting the spokes. Just no repairs for this. Any input would be great. Thanks

Duh I forgot the link http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/2380761313.html

Saw this the other day and asked what the vin was. 19K is a bit steep but hey "no rust" and look at those mudflaps:D

Another one....... http://stlouis.craigslist.org/atq/1813582563.html

I just saw those as well. they are on C/L with some saab signs http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/clt/1875645283.html

When I was looking for different ratios for the rear end I found this site helpful. http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html There is some 5 speed id charts on the bottom of the page. Good luck

The best place to start, Get the brakes Steering and suspension working right first. Then the run-ability, and then cosmetics. IMHO Welcome to the forums, lots of good info here. I sure learned a lot. The "clubs" button on the bar up top has a Seattle club and a couple in Portland.

Here are some shots without carpet or seats, and the belt mechanisms separate. (from my parts car). The pics are of the drivers side. The pics of the receiving end are well represented in MikeW's post. The only thing I had that I don't see is the nylon strap that goes under the center console, and holds the two center receivers. I hope this helps you out. Dave

Nice job S30driver, You did fine job cleaning up that bumper and fitting it to your 280. I applaud your efforts. That looks so much better than the stock bumpers. IMHO

If you know a good body man I have a donor car with decent quarters. The center of the roof is a bit wavy. I's make you a heck of deal on the parts, getting them to you is another story though. But I thought I'd offer. http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showcat.php/cat/500/ppuser/19508

Sounds like you have a handle on it. I'm sure you can get it as good as having that kit in the first place:nervous: I'll get an exact weight on it and let you know tomorrow.

I think it pretty cool myself. First time I've seen it.

Curtis240Z is correct in the fact that there are spot welded on washers on the inside of the cross brace. I also agree that you should replace the whole thing. JMHO. I'll sell you the one I have, with the bolts and nuts if you want it. It just has the ding by the rack mount. PM if interested Dave

What you have in you car is a camber adjustment kit from Specialty Products http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=83115&cmd3= When I took my car in to get it aligned at Les Schwab. the guy pulled that exact kit out saying it was the oldest parts he had and was shocked that he had it at all in the first place. Check out the installation instructions, what they do with that is cut a larger hole in your front cross brace 54401-E4100. install the eccentric and adjust your camber. You can never go back, once the hole is cut the stock bolt will no longer fit. To be stock again you would need to get a new cross brace.

What you have in you car is a camber adjustment kit from Specialty Products http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=83115&cmd3= When I took my car in to get it aligned at Les Schwab. the guy pulled that exact kit out saying it was the oldest parts he had and was shocked that he had it at all in the first place. Check out the installation instructions, what they do with that is cut a larger hole in your front cross brace 54401-E4100. install the eccentric and adjust your camber. You can never go back, once the hole is cut the stock bolt will no longer fit. To be stock again you would need to get a new cross brace.

I have never do the job myself, but looking at my spare dash it looks like a 90 deg. screwdriver or a vert short stubby might work. with some patients Sounds like you have the correct part, my dash if from a mid 72 car. Here are some pics of it from the top side. I hope these help, good luck!

That is a great price for that car Dave, I looked at a number of cars in the price range that were a whole lot worse than yours. I don't think you'll have any trouble selling it. I missed seeing it at Canby as we had to leave before you got there. Dave

I am parting a 2/72 that was an auto. I got it with no motor or trans, but it does have the pedal box and the clutch master block off plate too. there might be some other pieces you need as well. let me know if you are interested. I'm selling everything cheap. Dave

Awesome day. 120 miles down on my favorite backroad to Portland from Oly. paralleling I5. I was parked in overflow as Bruce said and was glad about it as I was in the shade all day. Those roadsters were roasting in the sun. I picked up a DVD and some gaskets from Bruce (Ztheropy) I need to clean my carbs, the PO let it sit for too long. Left about 4:00 and headed through the backroads on the east side of Mt St Helens. it turned into a 250 mile loop as the sign near the mountain said "road closed due to snow" and we had to reroute back to 5 and went back up the way we came down. Very fun loop though, all twistys just made for a long drive home. Thanks DatsunsNW for putting that show on, It is great to talk to anyone there and know they all have an interest in common, The Datsun! (nissan)

Only period correct for my ZLOL