Terrapin Z

I really only see the one part number for this piece 28890-P7900, should fit all 280ZX from 07/80 through the last 1983 Where did you find the 22590-P7900 number? Here are 2 pic's of mine.

I'll have a look at my 82 and see if I have that still on the car. Your part number threw me off a bit. I found the part number as 28890-P7900 and they should fit all years and models.

I have always liked the Honda 400 four. Super fun bike to ride. RD's were really fun too. I have a 74 550 four cafe'd out

Thanks, as you well know, in Washington there are a lot of rusty cars. The other half has been garaged all this time and are in great shape. An interesting mix of extremes. This lot and five more out of the shot. Plus another 4-5 that are already striped and scraped. I seem to gravitate to the rusty, less expensive ones. Other than my personal car.

Closest area would be Interbay / Magnolia. It did have a Ballard look to it. They were in a car storage lot. I was able to negotiate a good deal on them and factored in the fuel. He told me someone had come and looked at them, I thought that might have been you. I seem to have forgotten to add my pics of them nestled in..... ^^^

These ended up at my place. 12/71 and ?/73 As well as this 5/72 out of Tacoma.

View Advert 280Z AAR Auxilery Air Regulator Valve Used but in working order. It opens when cold as shown in the first picture, then after 12 volts is applied it warms up and closes as seen in the second picture. Body is clean, plug is intact, no cracks. I think this works for the ZX as well. Check you fitment. UNISIN JECS Made in Japan A32-600000 8908A stamped on the unit. Shipping is extra. PayPal accepted. Advertiser Terrapin Z Date 05/10/2022 Price $75 Category Parts for Sale  

Cold = open Hooked to 12V = closed

Agreed, initially it would open with the 12V, before the coolant was up to temp, then the heat plate would keep it open for the short intervals of turning the car off say at a store or gas station. I concur that heat would at least test the plate action. I read that Killain would need to be assured that it works electrically. I put 3 in the house last night from the shop to test (low battery though) and see some opened more than others this morning, so even that temp change can tell you something. Ambient outside 50 vs. ambient inside temps 70.

My test battery was low on charge so I plugged it in overnight. I will test a few of these this afternoon and see how well they move. I did notice there are different numbers on them but I am pretty sure they are all the same. The clean looking one is A32-000000 I did not think these were rebuildable like Killain is mentioning. I thought you just replied them with a new, or known working one via the 12v test.

Some used options.....

A new ad now, $1700.00 for both I am guessing. Stating parting them is more of a pain than he thought. Some new pic's of the other engine. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/d/seattle-1970-and-73-datsun-240z/7480485806.html I still am thinking a later 71 and a 72

Looks like there are two there, the more rusted one is an automatic he called a 73 but the dash looks 72 The other he calls a 70 (pictured above) but it does not have 70 parts on it c pillar, gas cap, vents in hatch, etc... I think they are both 72's IMHO I called him but no reply as yet.

I have some used ones if you want to go that route.

I have two, one has extra holes in the middle and corners, for PO's extra screw downs?? The other has a stain but is more intact. Both have crusty gaskets and some dirt/rust. the flaps look ok, but rusty screws. I don't usually clean stuff up, unless I am going to use it or put it up for sale. I have way to many parts to clean them all. I just bought another parts car last night. 5/72

Ha-ha once again I am late to the party. If Jim^^ S30Driver does not have what you need I believe I have a better one than you show in the pic. Although I like the plastic weld idea, I might have to give that a try on some other plastics I have.

PM Sent

Hi Jeffery, I just got home from work. I send over some pictures. I currently have two that are off the half shafts.

You should also consider cleaning the hazard switch in the dash, as some lighting power goes through that switch as well. Very similar type of switch and cleaning method as you have now done with the combo switches. Might still have a short somewhere though if the fuse is popping. Looks like you are making good progress though.

Yeah, I have some of those. Let me know if I can help out.

I have a number of fenders, most have some rust issues down near the bottom mount by the dog leg. If you only need a front top half I should be able to help. Shipping is farther from me than Jim2^^, so if he has one that would be less expensive to ship. If not then let me know and I will provide pic's and info.

In my experience the spring missing usually means the pivot joint is no longer functioning properly. So you might need the pivot parts too. They end up going past the lock point and folding backward with the spring pressure. Then you can't close the door. Nissans answer was to charge the mechanism and use a tighter spring. That is why you see a lot of later hinges on the drivers door and this style on the passenger door.

I screwed that one up, it is a BW T5 in the pic above. Same type of shifter plate. Here is the 71C....

82 and 83 are the same, 79-81 were more like the earlier 280Z optional 5 speed. Different gearing. The C looks very different around the shifter and has a lot more strength ribs on it. See pic from eBay. The one above^^ looks like an 82-83 version.

I would think it is to protect the tank from ripping open on that big bolt in a rear end collision. On the side where the tank is taller.