Terrapin Z

He sent a few more pic's but has even more on Zdriver : https://www.zdriver.com/forums/fs-240z-260z-280z-280zx-70-83-242/70-240z-43197/#post348914 Here is a better look at the plate. Looks like something else was mounted in the lower holes where it would normally sit.

I emailed the seller, He says he had a ton of questions and requests for more pictures. He power washed it and sent these to me. He said eBay would not let him ad pics to the posting.

Maybe that is why a $5000 bid was just retracted. lol "Oh it's got guano..... No thanks" Now back to $3650.00

Ran across this this morning. decent shape, no motor or transmission. Seller says it is one of the last of the 70's cars. Registered as a 7. It will be interesting to see where it ends up, climbed $1000 today. Strange place for the Vin Tag. There are a few more pictures on eBay, I just grabbed the pertinent ones. Can not see the 20 mph speedo, holes in the doors and steering wheel too. Respray, but might have been red to start. I'm not bidding, just looking and sharing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-Z-Series/203153325045?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Db718d64d187545578ac6886f49a4692b%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D353251201992%26itm%3D203153325045%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Af1e00ce6-17d4-11eb-8313-86bfdda5f0f0|parentrq%3A66e20e8a1750a45e619da51dffe53cbe|iid%3A1

Congrats on fixing the part you started out after - the mirrors. Unwind the gears off the teeth like it was when you pulled it out of the door and the spring fell off. Then with it as far as it will go in that direction put the spring on and then push it back up towards the teeth (against Spring pressure) Then used the window crank to start the teeth engagement again. There is a lot of pressure with the spring so extra hands help here to turn the crank while holding the spring pressure. Hope that makes more sense.

See you will be an expert in no time. This is not an easy thing to explain in words. You can look up some You Tube vids on replacing a regulator to help. The FSM has some info to if you don't have one there are downloads on this forum and some other web sites too like http://www.xenonzcar.com To get the spring back wound I disengaged the head and spin it way down, put the spring on and the push against the tension to get it back up to the gear and use the crank to get the gears engaged. You should be able to see where the spring was in the wear marks so you get it on the right way. The red circle marked 'arm" looks like it is bent in this pic. perhaps when you brut forced the handle. This needs to be straightened out if it is bent, it might just be the pic angle. ??? The rollers have that washer behind them like I mentioned earlier. hopefully yours are all intact. They tear and make it hard to roll the window up or down. I have seen some repair kits on eBay for these recently. If you need them. I am not sure you can get this back in right without taking the window out. You could try it. Normally the regulator goes in first with most of the screws in place then the window is tilted into the door and slid back and forth to get it on the guides. I usually get the top two in first then add the small lower one in last The small green one in your pic ^. Then crank it all the way up into the closed position helping it up, and then tighten down the guides. Roll it up and down a few times making any adjustments as needed. Kind of a pain but you can get it with some patients.

I had to learn all about the inside of both doors when I had the car painted. Every thing came out and was cleaned and repaired. Getting them back in line wasn't too hard but I did have to fiddle with it for a while. There are some plastic washers behind the regulator rollers that get damaged and can bind up as well, making it hard to roll up or down. You might need a small mirror to see all of them while in the door. Those mirrors do look like the rally mirrors. You can see a few sets on eBay here https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=240z+rally+mirror&_sacat=0 there might be a stamped 40202 under the pivot part (some bay pic's show that too) Looks like they had a seal and bracket that went inside the door. Were yours just sheet metal screwed on the the shell? The stock mirror is still available from Nissan and also had a bracket inside the door. We await your update....off to work now.

Almost sounds like you may have over turned the drive gear in relation to the driven gear in the regulator. Once those separate the spring makes it a little hard to reengage. As 7tooZ said pulling up on the glass while turning the crank might work. But if you disengaged the gears you might have to disassemble the whole thing and re-set it all from scratch. It is a little challenging but it might be the best option. I'm just not sure if you (a) separated the gears, or (b) if you did, can get them back in line while still in the door. I really can't tell much from the pic's But if the handle can spin without moving the window the gear might be separated. IMHO Again like 7tooZ says not the end of the world, it can be fixed. The 240Z did not have a passenger mirror, is this an add on of some sort? or a 280Z?

The early 240 came with the switch like @7tooZ shows in his radio face plate. It has a single white arrow up only. It also has a different mounting bracket. The early one had a larger plate and 4 holes. The OP's switch is what I believe to be a 280 under dash mounted switch which had both arrows in white. He needs the smaller switch for that particular radio. Like this one. As to why it would be in your car is probably the original broke or went bad and the later 280 was substituted in.

The drivers side has two wires one for the buzzer and one for the light. Passenger side should only have one wire.

Kind of looks like this one ...... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Mount-Rear-for-Datsun-200B-2-0L-4cyl-P810-L20B-LPG-MT8215-/141748203683 L20B 4 cyl.

I too have issues with a lot of thing on this car as being 31K miles and original. While it is in good shape I don't see it being a $100k + specimen. Along with all the items mentioned above, was there talk of the Master cylinders? Clutch and Brake I missed?. You can still buy more correct looking Tokico's from Nissan. Aren't the seats on the wrong sides? Shouldn't the adjuster knobs be to the inside? So many little things I am not going to list, best of luck to the buyer, I hope it suits their needs and budget.

It really depends on your plans for the car. If you plan on keeping it a stock original car by rebuilding the A transmission you would not want to cut the tunnel and mod it for a B transmission. (A on bottom B on top in pic. Longer tail housing, different shifter, different mount, different gearing) If you plan on modding things anyway there would be no need to rebuild the A transmission, as the B or C style are a step up. Then you might also consider the 5 speed as 7tooZ says. The 73 will have a B style 4 speed. (if still stock) Lots of options base on the first question in this post, What are your plans? There are lots of threads here for all kinds of restore and modding options. Post more pics of the rest of the car, check the drivers door jam for the build date.

Depending on the build date of the 71, it might have the A style transmission and center console. The 73 will have the B transmission and console. You may need to alter the shifter / shifter hole in the tunnel to make that work. The transmission mount will be different between A and B. The carb assy for sure as Site says above.

That's is the one. Strange you could not see it in the classified ad. It looks like it shows up on my end. Oh well, at least you found one.

Hmm, I posted two pictures on the ad in the classified listing, asking if that was the right shield. Did you see the pic's?

Question sent.

I have two flex plates If you would like to compare measurements. 1/8 inch is about the distance of the spacer / washer.

In my manual it says: "Line up notch in the torque converter with that in oil pump" "Be extremely careful not to cause undue stresses in parts in installing torque converter" There was also a recommendation for scribing an alignment line on the flex plate and the converter. For balance I assume.

I thought you might be past needing this piece, even if it was only half of the required amount to fit the car. It was an original Nissan part, and not an aftermarket piece. They always seem to fit a little better IMO.

@dutchzcarguy Not sure if you Facebook but this came through my scroll today.

Some SU info and parts from down under. https://sumidel.sitesuite.net.au/shop/category/carburettor-spare-parts

@zKars Jim, straight up the middle on a Z is about 21" and the ZX comes in about 24" Should be an easy way to see what you have. I hope that helps.

Mine is still in the parts car, with the trim off. I can get some measurements this afternoon when I get home from work.

Since there is more interest, I've post a couple of photos here. I seems the upper or back portion of the seat is not foam at all. but more like the "old horse hair" Something I did not expect. The seat or lower portion has foam and more horse hair on the underside near the springs. I know the stain looks funny but it is not that.?