Terrapin Z

I guess we will need more information from the OP. I always considered your switch as Series 1, and this one a series 2. I read the post as him having a series 1 wire harness and this Series 2 switch. (and a series 2 fuse box, short wire tails, different routings too) But hey I could be wrong as well. Both wire diagram show the circuit goes through a relay. Defrosters should pulse on and off lest they burn up the wire filaments.

My parts book lists two relays for the hatch glass. Zed Heads diagram only shows one marked as Acc Relay. Another diagram shows both. If you are mixing years it may cause problems. IMO. Washer pumps often fail. Being a rest mod there are other aftermarket pumps that will work just don't look or fit exactly "stock"

While my locks were out I noticed the key code was stamped in the side of the lock (a security issue in the 70's?). You could check and see if yours are all the same. It is possible the hatch was swapped out at some point with the lock going with it.

All the same part number 240Z ~ 280ZX 11710-E3000

There are blocks with E30, E31, P30, N42, F54 casting numbers There are heads with E30, E31, E88 (early and Late) N42, N47, P90, P90A. I think the N47 was on a Maxima ICBW Some of those matched head to block but those are just casting numbers. The serial number under the back cylinder matches the inner fender well plate for the 240, 260. For the 280 Nissan dropped the engine number on the plate but it is still on the block. As far as I know there were no matching transmission numbers. There are certain ones that were in a date range of cars. The A and the B style (two different ones), and a C in the turbo. I hope that helps some, I am no numbers expert so others may chime in with more data.

From Hybrids: At least he introduced himself there. Hello Z enthusiasts, My name is Brian Joseph, owner of BHJ Automotive, many of you may not of heard of us but some of you have. We specialize in custom Asian auto parts starting with the Datsun Z. Currently we are the primary seller of Retro-Spec products, we can guarantee all Retro-Spec products with a 4-6 week lead time, and we also hold some of their products in stock having a 2-3 day lead time before shipment. We sell other brands as well and are looking to design and manufacturer our own parts for all Z generations. If you are interested in our brand or have any questions feel free to visit our site www.bhjautomotive.com or contact us at sales@bhjautomotive.com, thank you for taking a look at our thread, we hope to hear from you all soon!

@SteveE I have a bag full of those rollers. PM your address and I'll send you one for shipping $ (I dismantled some old rusty regulators and saved the pins and rollers.) I found some thick nylon washers at Ace hardware and backed them up with a 15mm circlip, fits nice and snug. I just put my regulators back in, so hard to get a pic now.

I have a bunch of them, If you still are looking.

Well asking price, and sold price are two different things. Although I have seen a set of cables go for around $1500. His "sold" list is fairly inline with other sellers. There are a number of "best offer accepted" They did list the NOS heater panel finisher for a very specific buyer "Tnsnap" who then BIN @ $800. https://www.ebay.com/sch/eBay-Motors/6000/m.html?item=293531353110&_ssn=auctionworks1&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2046732.m1684

Same people that listed it before. They have sold some things and some are still overpriced. This is the latest list. https://www.ebay.com/sch/eBay-Motors/6000/m.html?item=293531353110&hash=item4457d50016%3Ag%3AKGIAAOSwUi5eg6Ux&_ssn=auctionworks1 $10 for some mystery wires. lol

It is 14mm from the top of the float sync aluminum base up the clear tube. Like shown in both pic's ^^

I have a set and really like how simple they are to use. Plus you can run the engine with them on the carbs and see how the float level reacts to RPM. I use a 14mm (9/16) bolt to measure the level, gives me a nice little handle.

Great idea, Good air flow on top, and like you said hang parts from it as well.

I had always heard the Southwest was the hot spot, but I have been doing well up here in the NW, around Portland mostly. Granted....I don't really know the Southeast market at all.

Interesting....... I recently bought a full L24 motor and auto trans for $30 and the seller threw in two D caps with that deal as well (rusty but decent) I picked up a windshield, 2 hatch, and 3 door glass pieces from the same guy for another $20 and a new Mustang gas tank with a custom mount for a Z for another $15 You just have to keep an eye out for stuff and be ready to pounce. Not trying to brag but just saying there are deals out there. Those eBay caps started at $20, the seller claimed to have found them in a house he bought. I bet he was happy!

The ZX had a couple of different ratios, early 79 is the same as late 280Z one, there is an odd one in the middle for a short time, and then the later 80-83 is what most folks like. I think they are paired with 3:90 diff's. I run a 3:70 from a Maxima, seems to work well for my driving. I found mine at a local JY for $85 and gave an old 260 auto as a core. $250- $300 is about average for a used one. Hub caps are a bonus though. ?

Hard to pin down exact change over dates. It seems to me that they like use up the stock on had like the vertical glass even after the changes had been made to the venting. Some side vent cars would then get the early glass until they ran out of stock and switch over to the horizontal glass. Just my opinion of course. The inner hatch vinyl cover would not have the vented centers on them in the later side vented cars. The inner quarter covers would have speaker like holes in the c-pillar vent area as well as the back portion where the actual speaker is.

I used a small bead hone to clean out a set of strut tubes that were rusted inside. Worked pretty well I'd say.

I have seen what some of these have sold for. A few have broken into the 6 digit realm, but it takes a lot to get it to that condition. I don't feel I have the means to get a car to that point. I have not done anything with it yet. Just pulled the 78 seats out, and got the window rolled up. BAT is something to consider. I did retitle the thread, thanks for the suggestion.

It is pretty badly rusted in strange places like the fire wall, but then the battery mount looks decent. Even with the damage shown in the rear there is a LOT of bondo cracking off in the rear and around the doors. Floors are non existent. Rust bubbles in all painted surfaces. Way more repair than I would want to do. I bought it for the parts. Surprisingly it has an uncracked dash, how is that even possible with the history of this car. Multiple wrecks, sitting out in the rain for years with the drivers window down. Who knows how much abuse it was subjected to when it was driving.

30 - near Rainier

It is possible, The owner I got from was the 57 YO son of a tow and repair shop that did a lot of liens on cars. I expect it was altered by the father and the son just sold it. The son had a lot of stories about the car, but who knows how true they are. Without a proper title I will most likely just keep the parts and scrap the shell. unless someone wants to try and resurrect it.

You are correct I was just building the story. I was thrilled to see it was a 1/70? although the car had been flipped to the 73 registration at some point. I did not get a title with it. Looks to me like 00903 The engine is an 70 E31 casting and is L24-009010 which would be a later 70 motor. E31 head and 2400 valve cover on it though. Lots of other early parts on it too.

No that style was early 70. I have the same knob on my 6/70

Hatch glass had defrost, but I saw a 2400 valve cover, early carbs with no drain plug on the float bowls. Yet it had a 72 flapper air cleaner. Seat belts had 5/1970 date.