vling

Hey guys, don't know if this is a repost. These guys did a 3 part music video featuring a Z car throughout. http://vimeo.com/15224524

Any chance more of these will happen in the future?

no not dumb at all haha. I haven't done that yet but it's on my list to do. Thanks for the tip on the RT mount...I just looked it up and I'm a bit confused, but at least I know it's there now.

Mother****ers should be shot for that. Good luck.

Hi all, my goal is to get my 71 Frankenstein z as road worthy as possible over 3 months this summer, with roughly $2000 budget. I've been away at school, but will be back home finally with a bit of time to work on the car in the mornings and on weekends. So for a little background info on the car. It's a series 1 71 240z with a L28/5speed and E88 head, roundtop SU carbs. Compression looked decent (around 170 with +/-5psi). I rebuilt the carbs with the ZT kit. New mechanical fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel lines, tank, (old tank had rotten fuel sitting in it) rotor, cap, plugs, wires. So it runs decently, albiet loudly, (exhaust leak somewhere) The one thing that worries me is one of the valve rocker guides(?) ( the little cylindrical shiny part with a groove in it ) had popped out of it's socket. I got it back in and it hasn't popped out again so far. First priority is brakes. There's dragging and clunking noises from the rear end. The car is hard to stop and feels unsafe. It has a new brake power booster and master cylinder, but my brakes still seem unpowered, the vacuum line that goes to the power booster is also new and secured. I've reset the handbrake as per haynes, and the dragging seems to go away, but if I engage the handbrake again, and disengage, the dragging comes back. I have new drum shoes, hardware and front pads waiting to go on, after that, what else should I be looking at as far as brakes? Any advice? I'm just trying to get it in reliable running condition (possibly for cross country driving). Do you think I should go as far as rebuilding the engine? Is my budget and timeline realistic at all ? Thanks, -Vaughan

^^ Haha damn that's alot of cars for your (our) age. I'm 20, bought my 71 240z last summer, towed it over from the west coast of FL to Miami, and got it barely running before I had to leave for school. I'm going back home now and hopefully with some elbow grease this winter it will be roadworthy! Previously had an 87 supra, and an 87 Mr2, so I've been a Toyota guy, but damn..the 240z is sexy.

Thanks guys, well I'm at school 1000 miles away from the Z, so the troubleshooting will have to wait till next break. Thanks again for the help!

Enigma - Can't find any fuel leaking from under carbs or float bowl. Floats are solid, but I have tried swapping floats from a completely different set and the problem persists. Both carbs are way down low. I do have a spare float set, but I only switched out the valves and float, I could try that out, although I did measure the two sets and everything looks identical from the outside.

Yea I've talked to Bruce, watched their DVD a few times, everything should be working fine, but it just wont. Thanks for the help Dave regardless, I hadn't thought to try out the washers thing

I have one washer on each valve, Ill try taking those off. Using two of the shorter valves. The tab is bent to the point that the float will contact the ceiling, if I bend the tab any farther away, the float valve will just be open all the time.

That's the only way I know too. This problem is so seemingly simple yet so mysterious at the same time.

do you mean raise the float by bending the adjustment tab? I've adjusted that way as far up as it will go, and it is still way off. Is there any other way to raise the float?

I am completely stumped on this. I've already switched out float valves AND floats with the same result, taken out the last minute mesh filters, cleaned and recleaned everything to do with the floats, carb bodies, pistons, domes, etc. Watched the ztherapy video multiple times, adjusted multiple times, etc etc etc. The static float level is maybe 1/16 below the top of the jet WHEN IT IS PULLED ALL THE WAY DOWN. With the jet 2 1/2 turns out, the static fuel level is wayy down there (maybe an inch below top of the jet) PLEASE IF ANYONE HAS ENCOUNTERED THIS PROBLEM BEFORE PLEAAAAASE HELP!!! AW:AWLJAWLJDFA!!!!!!

Ran the car for 3 minutes, shut if off and took off the dome and piston. The fuel level is at least 3/4" below the jet at 2.5 turns out, even with the float adjusted to the highest level. Something is really fishy here, talked to Bruce and even he was stumped. The only thing that's not stock here is the fuel vent lines are unplugged/no air filter, but I don't see what difference that would make.

Ok I've been searching this for days and can't really figure it out. I've adjusted my floats as far up as I can. The fuel level at the carb is about 1/2-1" below the jet. Either way I adjust, I can't get the fuel level up high enough (a tiny bit under the top of the jet right?) Choke is disconnected, (car starts without choke, is this normal for a Tropical climate?) and jets are butt up against the adjuster nut. The float valves work fine, tested and cleaned probably 10 times now. Fuel rises and maintains a certain level like it's supposed to, except too low. I've tried adjusting to FSM and that didn't work either. Any ideas? I'm stumped. Thanks -Vaughan

Same here, I have wiring but no electric pump. You can test the mechanical pump by taking it off the car, (submerge tubes in fuel) squeezing the lever and fluid should shoot out.

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but I have this same problem. I just bought a 71 Z with a new S1 MC (big reservoir in front, small in back), but the booster is leaking. Any alternatives?

Hmmm....I got it as close as possible (shoes slightly dragging on drum when I put it on) Then after pulling the brake a few times the drum was stuck tight. Is this supposed to happen? Is it a matter of pulling the brake too many times without driving it? I had been using the ebrake alot to work on the car without running it (The car was a fixer upper)

It was the brakes dragging. Thanks gotswap. The final step for replacing the shoes/drum on the haynes manual is to pull the ebrake repeatedly until the adjustment knob stops clicking. I tried that, and the drum got stuck before the knob stopped clicking. I redid it but now I haven't pulled the ebrake because I don't want it to get stuck again. Does this make any sense/ is that normal? btw the axles move freely now and there are no noises at all, I'm just afraid to use my ebrake anymore.

Hey all, I'm having a repetitive clunking noise coming from my rear right wheel, in and out of gear, low and mid speeds. Also there seems to be a slight hopping from the right rear wheel. I jacked the car up to check the axle/u joint for any play, and couldn't budge them in any direction. Also the right rear wheel is very stiff, like something is dragging pretty bad. I have to have the wheel on to turn it, even then there is lots of resistance. The parking brake seems to be functioning normally, at least the cable position is the same on left and right wheels. There is some brake fluid leaking from where the metal line connects to the rubber line next to the strut. Suggestions??

Geez that is freaky clean!

I'm Hoping the car will be roadworthy by then anyone have cheap 4x114's for me?

Well I think I've got it running at a decent state now. The odd thing is that all the plugs are carbon fouled, making be believe it is running rich, yet when I lift the piston ever so slightly, the engine stumbles, which is supposed to mean it's running lean? ehh whatever. Today I got a thrust welded muffler, put it on backwards, because it won't really fit the other way haha (does that screw up the muffling?). It's quieted to a bearable level, but still pretty loud. I did a hot compression test. dry 1 - 175 2 - 175 3 - 170 4 - 170 5 - 175 6 - 175 wet 1 - 175 2 - 175 3 - 175 4 - 175 5 - 175 6 - 180 Oh and now all the doors lock!! woohoo! (driver door was sagging)

$^!#, thanks for the tips. Should I reset the floats to fsm get new plugs and try again?

Adjusted the floats today, and now they are so far up that they don't even close the valve fully. I am still running lean (lift carb piston, engine stumbles means lean right?) Maybe the float valves are sticking?? I dunno but adjusting the floats doesn't seem to affect the A/F mixture My rear cab gasket was MIA when I took off the cover, (rear is the one that is running lean) Front carb has an intact gasket. New float gaskets coming in from Ztherapy soon anyway. rear carb float adjustment getting out of hand :/ new plugs are fouled again (doesn't smell like fuel, and is drier than the last set)