vling

Ahh the sweet sound of victory!! all 6 glorious cylinders firing!! The problem was 1. rear carb float level was wrong! (although that is the first thing I adjusted when I got the car, mustve got knocked off adjustment when I was installing it) the rear float needle was also a tiny bit uncooperative, recleaned it. replaced the fuel filter again since it was getting clogged with rust particles left over from the old lines. But the main problem here was that I wansn't adjusting the two throttle screws at all. For some reason I thought the only thing I was supposed to be touching was the mixture adjustment nuts. THANK YOU WEASEL for clarifying that. Ahh! I can sleep easy now... Ok well on to the next issues. When I lift the rear carb piston slightly, the engine stumbles, which means I should enrichen the mixture (turn out) right? The problem is that I am turned out all the way to the stopper. Now should I try to loosen the stopper, or adjust my float again, and if it's the float, should I make the "H" distance shorter or longer? What else can I do to enrichen the mixture further? Thanks for all the help guys, especially Weasel thank you thank you!!

Unkle - I'm already feeling the money being sucked out of me haha. Maybe later down the road though. I just want to get it running normally for now. Ok so..this afternoon put in the new coil and rotor just to see if they'd make any difference. Nope. I then took apart the carbs, and couldn't find anything particularly uneven between the two, except for a tiny speck of dirt on the front (bad) carb jet. Also there were no gaskets between the dome and body of the carb :/. Anyway I cleaned both up with carb cleaner, reassembled, put in 20w50 damper oil. Reset the mixture nut to 1 turn out on both, started again, and the engine started racing to 3-4k. Ok, so I backed off the throttle, idle, and balance screws so they had no tension. The car was running differently. It sounds and feels alot smoother now at idle. No shaking like before. I thought ok all 6 must be firing, so I went to do the plug removal test, and now, 123 are firing, 456 are not! This is the exact opposite of what it was doing right before I cleaned the carbs. So now glad because I guess that rules out some horrible timing/valvetrain problem, and hopefully it's just the two carbs being way out of sync that is causing these problems. I measured both carb's needle lengths (identical). Jets looked identical. I'm not sure what could be causing them to be so way off, or what would make them switch inversely like that all of a sudden. Also the car does not want to idle very low anymore. It's at 1200rpm with both mixture nuts out 1 turn. From my understanding I should be closing in the nut (lean) to get it to idle lower? My throttle, balance, fast idle and choke are all completely slack, is there anything else I should be adjusting? Thanks for bearing with me guys

just got a coil and rotor. cap and wires and points are coming in tomorow. will it damage the new parts if i run it with mixed with the old wires/cap points Thanks for sticking with me weasel

ackk my mistake, mine is different from the one in the picture posted above. Here is a pic of my dizzy. it looks pretty similar to the one in the 240z haynes manual, minus an e clip on the points knuckle...

The wetness smells like fuel, I guess it may be both. yetterben - did a compression test before I bought the car (cold, car had been sitting for 2 years and would not run) and got 1-179 2-166 3-166 4-170 5-166 6-200 Ill do another one warm in a minute.

Checked the firing order multiple times, It's good. Unkle - Don't know about the distributor installation, I just got the car and po didn't know much about the swap except "it ran really good". Yes new fuel (mid grade, been sitting for about 2 weeks now though, fuel additive in there too) Weasel - thanks for the ID and link

The timing is set at 10' based using the middle mark on the pulley (out of 5) and the 10' mark on the block. I'm not 100% sure if the mechanical timing is correct. It seems like the dimple on the cam gear lines up a tiny bit after TDC, but I don't know if this is compensation for belt stretch etc?. PO said it was running great before it was stored. I'm going to order cap rotor, wires points etc. Where do you recommend to get this from (local parts store won't even order them for me) Also, should I be getting parts for a 280z dizzy or 240z? Mine looks exactly like this: Thanks weasel

Hi everyone, I have a 1971 240z with an L28 (N42) block and E88 head. The PO said it had been sitting for two years and it had a valve lash pop off due to sticky oil that I fixed. I also just redid the fuel system (newish 280z tank, new hoses, pump, filter. Carburetor float needles were stuck closed, but I soaked them in carb cleaner and they move freely now, cleaned the banjo fitting mesh filter. Also adjusted float level as per FSM. Here is a video of the car idling Now to the problem. The car is idling very rough, engine is shaking, there is a loud clicking noise coming from somewhere and pulling spark plugs doesn't have much if any effect on a few cylinders (it was #1,2,3 that was not firing well on the old plugs, although swapping the #3 plug to #4 did have a bit of a positive effect on #3) I noticed that #1-3 were wet with fuel, while 4-6 were dry but still black. So after swapping plugs and seeing a difference, I decided to try out all new plugs. I put them in, and #2-6 passed the plug test, while #1 failed. Pulled #1 plug and it looked like no fuel at all had gone near it, and there was a slow white smoke coming out of the plug hole (not steam). Now after about 5 minutes of running, it seems the new plugs have started to foul again. Car is back to running like how it was with the old plugs. Here is pictures of the old and new plugs (kind of erratic pattern of fouling on the new set) Old New Also, I adjusted all the valves cold, a bit too tight (using measurements from atlanticz, which mustve been SAE, but i was using metric) but I'll be adjusting them again (correctly) right after I post here. Any thoughts?

Fastwoman - the fuel was fresh, less than a week old. The PO said the car was sitting for 2 years, so I replaced the fuel tank, pump, filter, and hoses. I'm sure some of the leftover old fuel could have caused the sticking though. I'm not sure if my valves were sticking, I just know that the rocker/lash pad had popped off before. What product do you recommend to use for cleaning the valves? Do I need to clean off the oil from around the valves before I attempt to clean them? I do know that cylinder #4 (#6 intake was the one that popped off) is not firing for some reason, and it seems to be getting spark. Compression was between 160-180 last time I checked (before it was running again) with the odd one out being #6 at 200

rocker was fine. I ended up tapping the lash pad back into the spring cap. it went in without much effort and swivels freely in it's seat. i put the valve cover back on and started it, and much of the shaking and the loud noise from that area are gone, but there is still another clicking noise somewhere (sounds loud around the carburetors, but I couldn't find it while listening with a screwdriver). I'm gonna do some more searching for it but I had to stop before I got asphyxiated by the fumes in the garage Also gonna adjust the valves very soon since that one has popped off before.

I got my 71 240Z started for the first time today. It idled around 1000 rpm (very rough) and the engine was shaking kind of bad, and a loud ticking noise coming from under the valve cover. I took it off to investigate, and this is what I found. The lash pad was sitting on the floor of the head and looks to be fully intact. The valve spring retainer on the other hand was mashed up a bit and is a little tight for the rocker guide to fit into. If I want to get the spring retainer off, I'll have to take off the camshaft and rockers, because I only have one of those universal valve spring compressors that gets blocked by the camshaft. My question is, are there any ways around having to pull off the camshaft to get this issue sorted out? (grinding part of the lash pad to make it fit?)

Thank you, Carl - will do Esprist - I will do the wet test next time I see it.

Went to go see an early 71 240z today, did a compression test and got 1 179 2 168 3 163 4 170 5 167 Exhaust(?) valve was stuck open for the first couple tries (0 pressure). Took off the valve cover and popped the spring back on right and got the 167 reading 6 200 why so high?? The engine is a L28 N42 block and early E88 head with SU carbs, been sitting for 2 years and I had to test it cold because the car doesn't run (no fuel) ps. What can I do to solve the valve stickiness?