Z Tyler Z

Ok, I'll have to give that a shot tomorrow, thanks for the input. I've already installed a new water temp sensor and that actually did quite a bit, my car revs much smoother at higher rpms than it did before. But still sometimes it likes to idle very low than others much higher (2-500 rpms higher). Slightly higher idling doesn't bother me it's when it starts dipping in the 500 range that scares me. The Z seems very gutless when accelerating off such a low idle. I can floor it and the rpms slowly move up when the car idles low.

Finally your switching filters, now I have to find something else to give you crap about.

Hmmm I call it being productive when I'm working on my Z, no loss in productivity here. I'm pretty young and my Z is my first project car. I just recently got it to daily driver status replacing my previous car a 92 mercury cougar :sick:; needless to say I'm looking forward to a long life of Z ownership and hope to own more in the future.

I've herd 1515 Napa Gold also works and is larger capacity, it's made for Ford engine I believe but fits perfectly and is generally cheaper then the 1521. A Fram PH8A also fits Ford engines.

Looks good for $300, you need to road trip up here sometime... I'm thinking bbq at Daves. Wish the weather would lighten up a bit.

http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com it's updated constantly

And your the guy I need to thank for selling Dave an extra set of 280z plugs so he could make me a set and test fit yours. I also noticed a big improvement over stock, can't wait to copy Dave and get some HIDs. As Everyone else said try his parking light harness when you can, they'll brighten up all your parking light and even your dash lights.

Hey everyone, so I finally got my Z to daily driver status. I've been driving it pretty much every day for a couple weeks now and have noticed a few small problems I want to try and take are of. My idle sometimes likes to stick at 1500-2000+ range, I assume this is the BCDD causing this problem. What's the easiest way to fix this? Try and adjust it or just hook a 12V source. Will the driving change if i decide to get rid of it or will my rpms just drop faster and not hang around 2k sometimes. But other times when I put it into neutral and come to a stop by cars idle will drop to around the 500-600 range. I've herd of the BCCD causing high idles but what could be causing a low idle? Other times when I come to a stop my idle is perfect (850). Also my car doesn't like to start without me putting my foot on the gas a bit. Seems harder to start without me doing that. Any ideas? I rather not throw money at things until the problem goes away. Thanks

Well first of all the easiest way to get 200mph Z is to do a Honda engine swap(VTECH optional). Then add at least 10-15 stickers of various parts on your car (note: you don't need to actually have these parts just the stickers is fine, these will add 10-20HP each). Then proceed to lower the car by simply cutting springs (20-50 hp). After add a whale tale or a 20" rear spoiler(100-200 hp depending on size), you'll need this down force at 200mph. Save money on the turbos and just buy a fake turbo sound whistle for your exhaust (75hp). Stick with stock exhaust but add a 4-6" exhaust tip and your set(100hp). Simple as that 200+ mph Z. But really if you wanna street race get the f*ck out of Washington State please.

If you daily drive your Z I'd get a paint job over a turbo swap. I hear dailying a turbo car is less than fun, especially when there's traffic.

L28 is a 280z engine, common swap for a 240z. Pretty much the same engine with a larger bore, bigger pistons, ect. Looks like a decent car.

Looks pretty sweet, question is though how much does he want for it? Would you have to ship it to Ireland or is it already there? The rust doesn't look to bad you could probably just Por-15 over it (with prep) and call it good but I'm far from an expert on rust. The engine looks like it has been taken care of, in the sense the owner took the time to paint the valve cover and install K and N filters. How does it run though?

Looks nice lets see some more pics. That's the same color I'm going to paint mine eventually. Those headlights looks good too, they were the same kind I was thinking about getting.

If the seller has some receipts to back up his claims looks like a pretty good deal. Just remember anyone can say "total rebuild 6 months ago". Take it for a test drive and see how you like it, check for rust in all the usual areas, and make sure it runs decent and you should be set. The color looks fine it's the orange accents that make it look ugly imo.

Ya, he's in Everett and lives by Cascade High school, so not too far from you. From the sound of things though I don't think his car is road worthy though.

If you can take pictures when you go and see it and post them here. As everyone else has already said check for rust and buy with your head not your heart.

Your probably set with what you have. There isn't must else you can do to make it feel like new.

I assume you got the car running again? If so pm me sometime and we can meet up and you can see my set up (if I remember right you said you also live in Everett). Currently I have Eibach lowering springs with tokico Blue struts and like it. The lowering springs lower the car about 1.5", I also used 240z rear strut insulators which lower the rear a tab more too. I currently use the MSA 2.5" premium exhaust kit with the stock exhaust manifold. Sounds pretty good, deep, not ricer. If you wanted a louder sound use a different muffler then the one provided in the kit (dynomax turbo muffler). Also using a header will give it a better sound (imo). If you have the money and want a really low car the easiest and safest(as opposed to just cutting the springs) way to do it would be coil overs but they're pricey. If you lower it too much you'll probably scrap though going over bumps. Currently with my set up I scrap my exhaust going over the speed bumps at EVCC. I have about 3" of clearance from the lowest part of my exhaust. So figure any lower and you'll have problems daily driving it. Also expect ride quality to decrease severely with a new suspension, you'll feel every bump in the road way.

Yep they pretty much have the same dash, there's a few minor changes but they all have the round gauges. I think the chrome stuff was a dealer option, I've seen it on 240z as well on 280z. Hood vent were on the 77 78 280z, the 75 76 model has a hood without vents. To be honest only people who know the cars can tell. I get a lot of random people asking me what kind of car it is.

Did he say your not getting enough power to the injectors or no power to the injectors? Did he mention if they were still opening and closing properly? Are you getting spark to all the injectors? Did you do anything to the car after you bought it? I assume the car turns over without any problems but just won't fire up? I'd try and find a shop that has experience with Zs. Or download a FSM and start with the rear of the car and work you way up making sure everything is working (fuel pump ect.) Good Luck

Trick is to not rush it, there will always be Zs out there (probably not as plenty full in Ireland as the US but still) Take you time see and test drive as many as you can so you can get a feel for what to look for. Good luck you'll get one eventually.

Are you going to replace the exhaust too? If not I'd suggest talking to an exhaust shop about wielding one to your current setup (unless you can do this yourself of course). MSA has a pretty sweet kit that's all bolt on if you choose to get new exhaust too. It's the 6 into 1 with the premium exhaust kit. Current I just have the premium exhaust kit they offer and love it, hopping to get a 6 into 1 in the near future.

I could be completely wrong here but could it possibly be a timing issue? Maybe it's not advancing and that's why the car is dieing when you try and drive it but runs fine in neutral? I'm also pretty new to Zs, so I'd wait for some more experienced members to weigh in before you buy/attempt to fix anything. As for the mystery wires I'd download a FSM and try and figure out what they are. Here's a site that you can download one from if you don't have a paper copy. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html Black wire is a ground, not sure on the green wire though. Welcome to the club, glad to see yet anther member from Washington has joined. Good luck with your Z, tons of information on this site.

This is probably a dumb question but have you bleed them properly? Master cylinder, rear passenger, rear driver, passenger, then driver. Also the clunking is probably just a worn Diff mount, common Z flaw nothing to really worry about. A new diff mount should solve the problem until it wears out again, but an RT mount will solve the problem for good.