Z Tyler Z

Mines the same way, when I start the car I can feel the booster "engage" but I still have to muscle the pedal if I want to stop quickly. I'll give this a try tomorrow after college, if I remember right Dave and I tried this when I was first experiencing brake problems, I just can't remember what verdict we came up with after trying it. At the time my rear brakes were completely overhauled but not adjusted, so they weren't really working but Dave adjusted them for me and it seemed to solve my braking problem. No rear brakes plus shot suspension made me noise dive when braking, luckily Dave helped me re-do the entire suspension and adjusted the rear brakes. Thanks for everyone's feedback I'll post again tomorrow after testing the booster.

So after Dave and I did quite a bit of electoral work my car is running a lot better. The engine missing is almost completely gone. Only problem is my engine RPMs are still dropping when I brake, when they start dropping in the 500 area my engine begins to miss. When I first start the car up and I'm letting it warm up if I push on the brakes i hear a distinct Whoosh/hissing sound. Then my engine rpms drop 100-300. This also happens when I put the car into neutral at stop lights and signs. Which sometimes puts my car into the danger zone RPM wise and stalls the car on occasion. Does this sound like the symptoms of a failing/leaky brake booster? I never thought anything of the hissing noise until I started searching on here about brake boosters. Couldn't find anyone with the exact symptoms as me and just need a little reassurance before i drop $100 on a new one. As always thanks for any and all feedback. Hopping to get rid of the last of this running issues so I can finally start on the interior.

Take it to any auto chain and they'll test it, generally for free too. I used Autozone when I had this problem.

Wow very impressive, about how long did it take? I'm planning to do this in the next month or so and was originally under the impression that it was a quick job. But it looks like I was completely mistaken. Tell us how it rides when you get it up and running.

Carbs don't use a ECU (computer). I'm pretty positive you'll need a new fuel pump. EFI requires high PSI level (can't remember exact number but it's 25+ PSI for sure) to run properly while carbs need like 2 PSI. You'll properly also need a new fuel filter, the 280z ones are designed for high PSI. That's all I can think of but let others weigh in because I'm more than likely forgetting things.

Your correct, 1975 and 1976 models didn't come with EGR, unless they were originally sold in California. dastuffuwant, did you ever reconnect that sensor that wasn't plugged in?

Whats the idle when it's warm? Could this high idle be the result of the automatic choke? My 76 idles high when it's cold out until the engine warms up.

If the distributor is not working right the car isn't going to run. Have you check to make sure your getting spark?

Welcome to the forum, no worries about being new, everyone on this forum is friendly. I'm pretty new to Zs as well and to cars/driving in general compared to most people on this forum. (solid 2.5 years of driving experience ) I don't remember the ECU being that hard to pull out. There's a thread on here where I couldn't start my car for weeks and it turned out I accidentally unplugged the ECU when trying to get to the stock flashers (took off the ecu plate to try and get more room.) I think you just undue to top latch and pull out and down. Really there isn't much to it. I doubt you'll mess up anything you can't easily fix. I'd also change the fuel filter if I were you, who knows what it could of sucked up. Have you checked basic stuff? Like spark plugs being fouled, cap and rotor wear, just basic things.You say there was year old gas in the car did you leave the car sitting for a year? I used the cheap stuff from Autozone and it seemed to work well think it was about 6 bucks for a can. Radioshack sells the Deoxit though.

combi switch = combination switch the one on the right hand side of the steering wheel that controls head lights, wipers, ect. And the wipers for Zs are notoriously slow and generally only like to move when there wet.

"1970 Datsun 240Z Sure, it's a bit truckish and relatively uninspiring to drive, but it's also one of the most capable sports cars of the 1970s. A torquey six lives under that long snout, and while it's no high-rpm screamer, it's still strong enough to get the job done." What does he mean by truckish, that's one of the last words I'd use to describe a 240z. (And technically it isn't even a word.) So the author calls the 1970 Corolla a "it was as fun as it was thrifty." but a 240z is uninspiring?

You can buy new flashers at any Auto store, you'll notice there a lot smaller than the stock Datsun ones. You'll need two, if you want to replace both. Dave will probably suggest going with an electric flasher as apposed to a thermal one because they draw less amperage.

I don't know very much about smogging a car (No testing here in Wa for anything older than 25 years). But why are you removing the oil cap when the car is running? The car dies because your letting un-metered air into the car. Our cars have Air flow meters that meter all the air that goes into the engine, any air that's un-metered will throw ECU off and as you said your car dies. This is perfectly normal. Also first generation Zs didn't come with a O2 sensor that started with the Zx generation. If you take a picture or describe the part your talking about I'm sure someone will know what it is. If you search a bit I'm pretty sure this topic has come up a few times in the past and there could be some helpful advice there. Also welcome to the forum.

Very sharp looking interior, huge improvement over what it once was. Were those speakers coming out of the center console ? I have to second Grants questions about the carpet. Again looks very good, gives me hope mine can look good again.

Ok, so on Saturday Dave and I (Ok mostly Dave ) worked on my Z. It seems to be running much better; knock on wood. I ended up driving there and it drove rough for a few miles then pretty well the rest of the way to his house (about 8 miles away). When I got there and I tried to restart the car and it wouldn't fire. It ended up being a loose fusible link, we ended up replacing all the fusible links to a newer maxifuse system, following the guide below. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html Then we replaced all my 34 year old Datsun EFI connectors with ones taken off a GM at the local Pull A Part and cleaned all the green off of the female Datsun connectors. There was quit a bit of green oxidation on the old connectors. Then Dave gave the AFM and the TPS a good solid cleaning. He also cleaned up the engine bay ground. Now my car idles fine, rpm's don't drop when I brake, and there is a lot less engine missing (didn't miss once when I drove home and on my short drive yesterday) I'm going to let the car sit a few days then give it anther drive and see how it runs. Next time I head over we plan on adjusting my valves (there's a little chatter) and replacing some of the wiring the PO duct tapes together. Thanks for everyone's advice, and a big thanks to Dave. Now I might finally be able to finally start on the interior of my car. Interior has been stripped for a good 4 or 5 months now.

Thanks for the input we'll be sure to give that all a try on Saturday. With the running on less then 6 cylinders issue, it's only seemed to do that to me twice. Each time I drove the car a short distance (less than 2 miles), parked it while I went into he store. Then when i started it back up she sounded awful, as if not all the cylinders were firing. When I first start the car up, it never seems to have a problem with possibly running on less than 6 cylinders. It's always been happening the second start up after a short drive. It also never had any of these problems during the summer time, they all should up during winter. It isn't that cold in Washington but it isn't always warm either. (and generally rainy ) But yesterday when I drove to Autozone with a friend, it drove like crap getting there. Did the whole idel at 600 and missing thing. Did the not firing on all cylinders when I started it back up, then drove absolutely perfect after I got out of the parking lot. Idled perfect, drove like a Z should. We'll probably look at the TPS too, I read on Atlantic Z car that this could be possible causing the weird idle problems. We should have a better understanding after Saturday of what it could possible be. I'll probably pick up a timing gun too, last time I adjusted it, it was by ear, so I'm sure that's off a bit too. On a positive note, it does start up without any problem. Which is nice when it dies in the middle of a busy street. -Tyler

Hey everyone, need some advice for my 1976 280z. It’s been running very rough lately, to the point where I need to give it gas at stop lights to keep it from dying on me. Here’s the symptoms RPMs drop 200+ when I brake at idle, sometimes kills the engine. (vaccum leak?) Engine misses a lot at lower rpms, generally under 2k, but occasional above2k. Gets jerky at times because of this. Sometimes when I stop than restart it sounds like not all the cylinders are firing but eventually goes away. This is accompanied with very low oil pressure; it could just be my sensor but idk for sure. After it’s been driven for a while all these symptoms go away. Generally after being driven a bit then stopped for a bit then restarted. I always let her warm up a couple of minutes before driving. I’ve already done basic things like cap & rotor, ngk wires and plugs. Zs-ondabrain (Dave) is going to help me clean all the EFI components and replace all my Fuel injector connectors with some we got off a Gm and Audi at a Pull a part. *btw Dave I picked up some cleaner stuff at Autozone tonight* (not de-oxit but the guy said it does the same thing) Any advice is highly appreciated. Thanks, ~Tyler

Removing the dipstick allows air into the engine that isn't being "counted" by the AFM and that's why it's dieing. I'm almost positive that my 76 doesn't die when I remove the dipstick while the engine is running. The RPMs will drop a bit but it stays running. What does your car idle at? Does it stall then die or just die right when you remove it?

I thought that list was all the work you'll likely be doing...Kidding (somewhat) At least it'll get you closer to your 8 grand goal to finish up your 260z and doesn't involve brake fluid or suspension rebuilding.

2010 is going to hopefully be a big year for my 76' Z. Looking forward to getting the interior in the next few months; it's been stripped of it for a while and well sort of makes my car look "abandoned" as my parents describe it. This will include dynomat, carpet, dash cap, shift and e-brake boots, and seat upholstery (hopefully). Luckily I just got a pair of flawless interior quarter panels and seat bottoms(slightly different pattern than my seat) from a guy off craigslist on the cheap. Also looking forward to getting the hideous body kit off and replace that with a air dam and bumpers. The current body kit was put on by a previous owner and not even for Z cars, sort of jerry-rigged to fit. If money permits I'll probably get a complete stereo system and start beautifying the engine bay. Maybe do the Toyota brake upgrade (unvented) if my rims permit (14X5.5 westerns). Hopefully by summer I'll make this car my daily driver and finally sell my POS '92 mercury cougar. Exterior paint will hopefully come by 2011, maybe late 2010. Good luck everybody and happy new year. Edit: Plus all Dave's upgrades

Welcome to the forum, glad to see anther college student interested in Zs (like myself). My best advice before you start looking for one is to read up much as possible on this forum then try and buy the best condition one you can afford. Glad your not taking your shops advice, Hondas = 4 banger economy car and nothing more. Good luck and keep us posted.

Naw she doesn't look too bad. Rust looks like it's going to be a fairly big issue. If I were you I'd first make a list of everything that needs to be done and break it up into little things then start doing them. Start looking for parts car in local pull a parts and craigslist. I'd probably be easier to find a new hatch then to repair that one. Same goes for floor pains. Personally I'd try and take care of the rust before anything else. That's going to be the most expensive part of all of this and is a very important part. Save up, get quotes and try and find someone who can do the wielding for you (unless of course you can do it yourself), then go from there. In the mean time as I said try and find local replacement parts on the cheap. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/30-7319 Also it's not a "knockoff "the e brake and tranny look how they should. I'm sure most people on this forum put more into their cars then their worth. As long as they enjoy them who cares. You don't lose money until you sell. But ya it's going to cost a ton to get this looking good again. 30k might be a bit high but expect at least 10-20k(of course I haven't' a clue how much rust removal costs, that one of the only things I got lucky on with my Z) Good luck and keep us posted.

Possibly a bad move by trying to start it before doing maintenance but if the engine didn't even turn no harm should have been done. Read this thread, lots of good information in it about getting the engine in good condition before trying to start it. Particularly Carl's posts. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22619&highlight=sleeping+beast At this point of time I doubt a crack in your dash is much to worry about. You can always fill the cracks and make it look new again. I doubt if anyone makes a dash cap for rhd. If the floor boards are bad you'll more than likely need to need new ones. I'm not 100% but i think there probably the same kind of lhd 280z's. I think MSA sells them. Start searching this forum about rust removal and cover up (Por-15). Good luck post pics when you can.

I bought my Tokico Hps from jdmwerks13 on Ebay for $227 free shipping set of four). Got it within 5 days (counting Sunday) and everything was correct.

When you say bare essentials are you referring to all the emission stuff? IF you want to remove that I'd suggest downloading the EFI bible and read up on what each thing does before removing it. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html It's under other guides I think. Good luck and have fun.