Z Tyler Z

Thanks for all the help so far, I checked the fuel pump and it's in working order. I'll revive this thread after I get back from vacation and hopefully get this mess sorted out. Thanks again everyone.

Ok, back from work and checking out the car. We used a timing light and checked all the wires inc. coil wire and they all work great. I checked all the vacuums and it seems they must of have been replaced by a previous owner because they're all in decent shape (cracks or anything). The fusible links also look fine. We used your method Matt and checked the injectors but the spark plugs didn't seem that wet at all, almost dry as if they weren't getting very much or any gas. I don't know if it's possible to have all the FI to get clogged at once and prevent start up but I think it might be the fuel pump not delivering enough fuel to the injectors. Is there any way to check the fuel pump to make sure it's in working order. I might have been mistaken when I said that I herd it turn on. What do you guys think? When I first tried to crank it over we noticed a little gas dripping from one of the tubes leading to the 4th injector. We tightened it up and it stopped leaking (very small drip). So what do you guys think, whats the next step in troubleshooting this problem? Tomorrow is my last day I'll be in WA and be able to work on the car, if I can't figure it out tomorrow we'll have to continue this thread after I get back. Thanks for all your help so far guys

Thanks for the input so far guys. I have to work most of today but when I get off I'll stop at my dads friends house (where the cars at) and start checking things. I'm pretty sure my dads friend has a timing light we can use. If not I'll pick when up after I get back from my trip. Ok, I know what your talking about now, I completely forgot to check those. I'll also be sure to check the vacuums and injectors and get back to you guys tonight. Thanks

Hey Matt, So far I've yet to check any of the fuel stuff. When I try and start it, I can hear the fuel pump turn on though. After trying to start it for a while I could smell gas (flooded it) so I know it's at least getting gas. If by fuses you mean the ones under the passenger side dash then , yes I already checked those when trying to solve my blinker problem. Are the fusible links the links between the battery and starter? When I first went to start it one of those was unplugged. After plugging it back it nothing seemed to change. Whats the best (and easiest) way to check if the coil is working and the injectors are pulsing? The coil is stock, so who knows how goods it's working after 33 years.

First off I'm pretty new when it comes to fixing up cars and this 76' 280z is my first project car, that I'm trying to make a daily driver to replace my 92' cougar daily driver. My dads friend is helping me but he isn't the greatest mechanic either. So after having this car started on me perfectly for the last month, after sitting for a weekend it doesn't seem to start anymore. It turns strong but just doesn't seem to go. So far we've checked all the distributor wires, it has gas and the battery has been fully charged, despite being in poor shape. We've tried everything either of us could think of. All we did before it stopped running was was replacing the shifter bushings and adjusting the E-brake. All I can think of is that the battery clips (the part that attaches to the battery) are in poor shape. I don't know if that would cause it to randomly not start one day or what. Also we had recently taken off the hazard switch and console if that makes any difference, I'm pretty sure it didn't start before we did that though. To top everything off I'm going on vacation (Arizona) in 2 days, I'm wanting to get it started before then, so I just don't stress my whole vacation. Any ideas?

I installed that kit a few weeks ago with the stock exhaust manifold. In my opinion the Dynomax sounds pretty good. Has a good deep sound to it and doesn't sound "ricey" at all. Should sound even better with a header. But if I were you I'd hold off on it if you're just going tot drop a V8 into it eventually even if it's down the road a bit. I haven't a clue how much a V8 conversion is but I'd say instead of putting money into building the L26 up I'd just start saving for that V8, but that's just me. Good luck.

Looks like a great car for less then 3k, I really like the green/tan Zs. Looking forward to more pictures when you have time. =)

Thanks for the quick response, what would you recommend to clean them with? Would brake cleaner work or should I just wipe the friction surface down with water and dry them? There isn't any rust or defects.

Do brand new brake drums need to be turned before I install them? They both seem fine; I tried searching around but couldn't find an answer.

Sadly here in Wa, 35% is as dark as we can go as we can go legally, but I've yet to meet someone in my area that has been pulled over for having darker tint. It's not really enforced were I live in WA.

Thanks for all the comments so far. I ended up getting the exhaust on last Thursday and plan to do the brakes in the next coming days. Ended up finding a crushing yard that was parting out a 77' 280z and got a good deal for a new glove box, along with a lot of other items my car was missing (Rear view mirror, some emblems, ect.) I'll check under the body kit next time I'm working on it that for the heads up on them being used to hide problems. I definitely join the Z-car club of WA, them seem very active and have multiple events monthly. Just need to get me Z drivable first. I totally agree, it looks hideous. I'm thinking of getting a front air dam then buying a 240z front and rear bumper. I want to get a front air dam that isn't made out of fiberglass though. Does anyone know the going rate for a 240z front and rear bumper? So far on Craigslist two different people have offered to sell me the front bumper for $150, but I can't find any internet sites that sell them so I could compare prices.

After months of researching Z cars and hunting on Craigslist for them, I finally went out and bought a 1976 280z for $1850. So I also thought it'd be time to register here instead of just browsing here all the time. So far all the car needs to become a daily driver for me is new exhaust and rear brakes. The old one is very rusty and the muffler had fallen off(Sounds like a tank without the muffler). It also needs new rear drums and rear wheel cylinder. I hopping to take care of all that in the next few weeks as the parts arrive. Then just a few little things like side mirrors and a rear view mirror to make it street legal here in WA. Here's the exhaust system I'm ordering. MSA Premium Exhaust System http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC27/15-6304 Despite the exhaust rust the rest of the body is nearly rust free. Even the typical rust areas for Zs are fine. The interior is pretty bad but nothing a carpet and dash kit won't fix. All the gauges work including the clock. It's a strong runner and shifts great. Looks like one of the past owners took out the stock 4 speed and added a 5 speed though. Right now the car is just primer but I'm hoping to get it painted in the near future. Sadly the stock paint code is unreadable. Is there any way to tell what the stock paint color was with the vin number or any other numbers found on the car? Currently the glove box is locked and I don't have the key. The previously owner said he never got it open either. What's the best way to get it open without breaking the lock (if that's even possible). I'm hopping there's a key code in there so I can go get a copy made. One of the past owner also installed that body kit, I'm unsure if I'll keep it on there and touch up one bad area or try and find some stock bumpers for it. I'll get some more pictures sometime next week. This one was off my phone so it lacks quality. Thanks for reading my intro, glad to see there's lots of people from Wa here.