Z Tyler Z

ROOOAAADDDD TTTRRRIIIIPPPP....or see if the guy will ship it, I've shipped larger items via Grey Hound and they're always pretty reasonable on price. Shipping would probably be like 50 bucks so in the end $75 for an already boiled out gas tank isn't too bad of a price.

Sad news.. Just filled up and did the math only came out to 13 mpg this was like 90% city driving. Where do I go from here? Car still drives good bcdd sticks every now and then but other than that it drives great. I smell raw gas here and there though...while driving.

I sense a little hostility in this thread.. Just next time make your own thread instead of bumping a 7 year old one. Also I'd try not to call people jerks especially someone like sblake01 who's helped tons of people on this site (including myself) with trouble shooting. Download the efi bible and go through that you may not even have to replace your parts. You might just need to clean the connections. Good luck.

Anther thing I forgot to mention even to the claim rep is the other guy didn't even want my info. I only got his info. But yes lesson learned big time, next time (hopefully there won't be one) I'm calling the police asap. Hopefully this all works out in the end. I'll keep everyone posted. I did manage to take a picture of his bumper right after it occurred (shows no damage).

Yes this is what I've been thinking about, because it did happen so close to my house I called my dad right away and he got there within a couple of minutes. My dad herd him say that he hit into my car. I know he isn't exactly a witness to the event but he was a witness to him admitting fault. I'll give Gieco a call tomorrow and tell them what happened. I didn't call them to began with because I don't want my rate to increase.

Just got off the phone with his insurance rep. Because there wasn't a police report I have to wait for the insurance company to get hold of the guy who hit me to confirm it happened. Anyone know what's happens if they can't get hold of this guy? There's no police report and I'm just sort of paranoid that they'll close the case if he doesn't respond. I tend to be a pessimist and I'm just trying to think what will happen worst case. Other than that I was told to get a shop quote and email him the pictures I took right after the accident. I wish I have Hagerity but I daily drive my Z (at least until it snows) and don't have a garage/drive way to store it in. Off to go get a quote we'll see how this goes.

Just when I get my car running perfect, I'm on my way to Intro to Philosophy about a half a block away from my house at a stop light. I'm about 5 feet away from the car in front of me (left him tons of room), for some reason he puts on his reverse lights and starts backing up. I honk my horn over and over then just keep it on and he smashes into the front of my car. I got all his info and just filed a report with his insurance agency. This is the first time I've ever been in an accident. Luckily it's only the front bumper that took damage. The guy was like well it's only a little bumper no big deal at all and I was like dude wtf you can't just walk into Autozone and buy one of these. He didn't understand... His car was unscratched.

Update, car drives perfectly...lets hope this lasts, we really don't know how we fixed it but we did. All we did was cleaned and re check the gap on all the plugs. Check the fuel pressure, which is a steady 30 psi at idle and jumps up to 36 ish with any throttle. When we hooked up the fuel pressure gauge a lot of air came out of the lines, maybe this was the cause? Also we re-checked the timing was only at 2 degrees advance now its at 10. Car idles at 800 and has plenty of power, lets hope the gas mileage improves too. Just filled up so I'll get back to everyone in a couple of days and tell you guys how it is. Other than that thanks for all the help, lets hope it drives perfectly from now on. Also we tightened up my crankshaft dampener bolt it was pretty loose (Dave says scary loose).

Currently my cars not running (sort of). Dave and I adjusted the TPS back to spec (or at least close to it) and it seems to run awful now. Before we adjusted it any pedal movement was considered full throttle (efi bible tps test). Maybe this was set that way on purpose? The idle on my car currently is set at 1300 rpm but for some reason despite the idle being set that high my car wants to idle at 500-800 and not rev quickly. It's extremely hard to drive this way and I'll be lucky if I can manage to drive to Daves like this. I'm almost positive it's fuel pressure, as I said the rebuilt afm I installed and everything else tested perfectly. Currently I start the car and it goes to 800 then within a second dips down to 500 then back to 800 (even though the idles set at 1300). If I wait a while let the car warm up then turn it off and back on it then idles at 900-1000. I never checked Harbor freight until a guy on Ratsun suggested it and it looks like they have a gauge for only 12 bucks (20 if you want there test kit). I'll pick one up tomorrow and see how it goes. So I don't have to look it up what the correct PSI my fuel system should be running at?

They look sweet can't wait to see them in person.

Thanks I'll send you a pm in a couple minutes. For some reason most of the high schools (at least where I live) including my own didn't have an autoshop class.

yep I'm in college and pretty cheap; only like to spend money when I have too. This might be one of those times though.

Went through the whole EFI bible. Found out my TPS wasn't working correctly. It was either at the idle setting or at full throttle. We adjusted that and now its to spec. Everything else tested fine after we changed out he afm to anther one I had laying around that tested perfectly. Now the problem is my car is gutless and slow to respond. We'll see if the gas mileage changes. Does anyone have any info about using a 300zx ecu and MAF on a n/a 280z? I know there popular for L28et but what about n/a car? (with an 300zx n/a ecu of course)

If I remember correctly the thermotime switch controls the Auxiliary Air Regulator right? I wonder if I just removed that if it would solve my problem. I was planning on removing it eventually to make room for a strut bar anyway S30driver drives without his up here without any problems. He says he just has to manual warm it up (rev it for a while) before driving.

Ok now I'm getting around 15 mpg with a mix of city and highway driving. New problem I'm starting to notice is that the car doesn't like to be driven when cold. It tends to be gutless and idle very low (500-600). Any ideas? The problem is gone when I turn the car off and back on. When it idles low the BCCD doesn't turn on and hold the idle, it just drops right to around 600 when I putt he clutch in.

No worries I didn't go and buy one I had one laying around from a trade and decided to see if it'd work. When I get some time I'll take Z trains advice and go and get a Fp guage. On the way home today I was still getting that gutlessness with my car. I can still put the pedal to the floor in first and only slowly gain speed. I still think the Air to fuel is off but haven't a clue where to look now. Well see how tomorrows trip goes mpg wise.

Yesterday Dave (Zs ondabrain) and I installed anther fuel pressure regulator I had laying around. We also replaced a couple of the replaceable fuel line hoses and the vaccum line going tot he fuel pressure regulator (mine was hard as rock and has a few small cracks). A day before that when it was running awful I double checked the AFM and noticed it wasn't in all the way :stupid: . It ran much smoother after that. Does anyone know where I can get the clip the goes on the connector for the AFM? I'll know what kind of gas mileage I get tomorrow after work. Have to drive to Issaquah and back which is like 80 miles round trip or something. Lets hope for 20+ freeway.

No o2 sensor on my car, I'll check the fuel pressure next time I get a chance, pretty sure I even have anther fuel pressure regulator lying around somewhere.

So I've been daily driving my 1976 280z for about a year now and I'm getting around 11 mpg city 15 highway. I've already replaced the coolest temp sensor and plugged off the cold start valve (thought it could be leaky). Yesterday i picked up anther AFM, figuring mine could be bad and now it runs a lot smoother but still runs very rich. When I let up on the gas I hear a lot of popping from the exhaust. When driving it feels like it has a vaccum leak somewhere but I've yet to find one. My idle will sometimes drop very low (600 range) and my car will become very gutless. other times it'll run great. My bccd doesn't turn on all the time only sometimes, when it does do it's job my car runs fine other times it won't turn on and that's generally when my car is gutless. I'll go through he EFI bible next time I get a chance to work on my car. Till then is then any ideas?

All you need is a volt meter to adjust the TPS your Z too (and screwdriver).. How were you adjusting it? Just had mine done by S30driver and it made my car much more responsive off idle. Pretty sure the only difference was a Cat. I worry about removing smog crap after passing emissions. Edit: Have you tested your water temp sensor yet via FSM? IF I was you I'd just go and test every component via FSm and go and replace parts as needed. Might aswell just replace what needs to be replaced instead of just throwing money at different things until you pass.

Just a heads up PayPal fees are 3%+.30. Also as my dad always tells me I'd have to suggest charging an extra .60 to get tracking numbers when the buyer pays through Paypal. Paypal is buyer friendly and could care less about the seller in terms of charge backs and other problems. Without tracking numbers you have no proof that you ever shipped the item. All the buyer would have to do is file a charge back to get both the item and his money back. My dads used Paypal since is was released and had his fair share of problems. I know you've been reluctant to use it in the past so I figured I'd give you a heads up.

You could always grab the brakes and sell them to a 240sx guy. Probably make a couple bucks.

Did you just tighten that down or did you stick a bolt in there then tighten it down I can't tell by the pictures. I attached a picture of what I did (been meaning too for a couple days now my bad).

Don't cut the springs, save up for some proper lowering springs they'll run around 200 but it;'s better to lower your car the right way instead of just cutting springs. As Zedyone said look into stiffer struts too.

Should be the same