FastWoman

Ozone would do it. It's a triatomic oxygen molecule (three O's, not the usual two). It's formed most commonly during lightning strikes, electric arcs, etc. It's that peculiar, not unpleasant odor you smell when a brush-type electric motor is running. The O3 is rather unstable and "wants" to give up its extra O to another molecule, thereby oxidizing it and neutralizing it. It will indeed degrade rubber, vinyl, and other materials, but short term exposure should have very little impact. If you're worried about it, you might wipe everything down with Armorall just before gassing the interior. After you're finished, you can spray the interior with "new car smell," which I think is available in a can. Having said this, I find nothing wrong with the very faint odor of "old," as long as it's not from cigarettes, dogs, rat droppings, mildew, and other stinky things. "Old," by itself, is a dignified smell. I was frankly relieved as the heavy odor of the PO's Fabreeze wore off.

Better late than never. Thanks! FAIW, I think the MSD's multiple sparks occur in such rapid succession that they would not multiply trigger the ECU. At least that's my theory.

L28buggy, I presume you're running fuel injection and haven't converted to carbs, and I also presume you're talking about the #1 pin to the ECU. If that's correct, the engine will not run without the #1 pin connected to the (-) on the coil. No revolutions will be detected by the ECU, so it will not send pulses to the injectors. I've been down that road myself. Furthermore, if you're installing an MSD 6A or MSD 6AL, you're going to have to get a bit creative about how you trigger the ECU. The voltages the MSD creates are much higher than the OEM IM generates and MIGHT potentially fry the ECU. The MSD's tach output, on the other hand, doesn't generate sufficient voltages to trigger the ECU. You'll need to keep the OEM ignition module and feed it to one of two different designs of MSD tach/ignition adapter. (I don't know which one.) Presumably it will ring at higher voltages, triggering both the tach and the ECU. That output will then serve as the trigger to the small white wire of the MSD. I considered this entirely too much adapting, glomming together, and jerry-rigging, so I decided I didn't want the MSD that much after all. Instead, I wired in a GM HEI-type ignition module to a Blaster 2 coil, which has worked very well. You can google this retrofit pretty easily. I'd say pretty much everything in the fuel injection system is required to make the engine run correctly. You might be able to omit some of the vacuum-operated emissions equipment, such as the EGR system and charcoal canister, but that might compromise operation somewhat. The system is designed to run within pretty tight parameters, and there is no closed loop compensation using info from any oxygen sensor.

Alas, Ron, no trunk! I love those trunk monkey commercials, though! Along the lines of intimidation, I wonder whether a few spent shotgun shells scattered on the floorboard would be a deterrent. Defeat mechanisms are obviously the way to go. We probably shouldn't discuss too many details here on list (!!) There are obviously many ways this can be done, and as long as they look like factory wiring, they would take way too long for a thief to fault-trace. After thinking about all the ways hidden switches and switch combinations could be used, I had a eureka moment. The best, smartest, most hidden switch to use would be a car alarm, which would have additional deterrent benefits. Of course car alarms can be defeated by any thief with half a brain. There's a work-around, though. If you're interested in my work-around, just PM me. If I know you from the list, I'll be happy to share with you. re the horns: I sort of like the idea of the Ferrari horns . I don't know about the 6V horns, though. I don't want to give anyone a heart attack! I also like the old-style siren idea. Mount the thing on the roof, along with some cherries, and I think the car would be left alone. Peace, Sarah

Hi all, So it seems kids in nearby city gangs (?) are messing with us here in rural Virginia. They're stealing stuff out of unlocked cars and had earlier been breaking into people's homes. Around the corner from me, someone vandalized a kid's 300ZX with spray paint, but I don't know whether that's related. Anyway, I'm getting nervous about my 280. Time for a security system, I think. Unfortunately I don't know what systems are good. I'm hoping some of you can recommend a system to me. Here's what I'm wanting in the alarm: (1) Triggers to motion, door opening (grounding of the circuit via the door switches), and perhaps also a +12 signal (although I can add a relay to achieve this purpose). (2) Distinctive alarm sound -- doesn't sound like everyone else's alarm (so that I'll recognize it immediately. (3) Uses a remote disarm (small keychain transmitter). (4) Has some sort of defeat circuit output -- perhaps a relay contact or a logic output when alarm is tripped. (5) Flashes lights when alarm goes off. (6) Not particularly fancy or expensive. (7) ... but not a piece of junk either. (8) Programmable so that it will reset after a short period if triggered by the motion sensor. I do have some good ideas with regard to the defeat circuit, but of course I don't want to discuss the specifics on this list. In short, the alarm system will be my convenient and consistent way of defeating and enabling the engine. And yes, I've thought of hotwiring work-arounds and alarm tampering. I think I have a pretty iron-clad wiring strategy. With this in mind, any good recommendations??? Are these any good, BTW? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-Omega-K9-Sombra-RFID-Car-Alarm-Keyless-Entry-System_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad5824c38QQitemZ390129142840QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://www.caralarm.com/manuals/K-9/Sombra.pdf Thanks, everyone! Peace, Sarah

FAIW, some piano movers will take on odd jobs like this. If you get the right piano mover, they're incredibly/amazingly strong. Three guys from Richmond moved in my concert grand piano, which weighs about 1200 lb. It took two of them to carry it through the house around doorways. The going rate to get something heavy from a basement to the garage would probably be around $150.

Mine is a 280, not a 240, so I'm building a different parts inventory. I'm strategizing based on how the life expectancy of parts compares to my own life expectancy. Like Ron, My #1 consideration is whether there will likely be an aftermarket source. I have already decided to make my life much simpler and strive for a goal of "mostly OEM," not "100% OEM." I'll be willing to engage in retrofit solutions where necessary, but keep to OEM where possible. The one exception might be the fuel injection system, which I think is important historically as a 1st gen Jetronic system. (I'll try very hard to keep it intact without mods.) Anyway, my parts accumulation strategy is based on numerous decisions, including my long term objectives for the car. Given the popularity of these cars, I think anything required to keep the car running will eventually have an aftermarket source or a reasonable mod/retrofit procedure; however, that will quite possibly be with a serious change in the OEM configuration. For instance, the 280Z might have to be carbureted. I recently bought new air intake boots for my 280 and have them sealed in a plastic bag. I just bought a fuel injection computer off of Ebay pretty cheaply and will be testing it over the next few days. I'll eventually acquire a spare air flow meter. For plastic parts, I may be learning the art of molding/fabricating my own using polyurethane resin. The stuff is sort of expensive, but certainly cheaper than the parts. The complex padded surfaces, such as the dash, can be done by companies specializing in that art. There are aftermarket sources for the body parts. Headlight buckets come in either metal or fiberglass. The fiberglass ones will survive anything but a wreck. Other crunchable parts, such as the grill and the air cleaner (in the 280) may have no aftermarket source. I might look for spares for those. With so many Z's out there, enthusiasts will either find or create ways to keep their machines on the road, at least during my lifetime. That's why I decided to own a Z and not, say, a Jaguar E type (which I think is ultra-cool).

I don't know the specifics of the '76, but check your fusible links and your relays. At least on the '78, the major segments of the fuse block are each fed by relays, which receive power from the fusible links.

I frankly didn't know it was mounted in a threaded sleeve. Odd construction. I wonder if it can be drilled out with a drill press and a big bit. Drill to almost the complete diameter, and then curl the remaining shell of the sensor into the middle of the hole, away from the threaded insert. Or you can drill a hole just large enough to accept a blade. Cut through the sensor material until juuuuust short of the sleeve. Then squeeze the sensor on one side of the cut to fold it into the hole.

It's certainly nice to have all the vents working, but prepare to be disappointed at how much air actually comes out of those side vents. It isn't much. Peace, Sarah

I had the same problem with my '75 many, many years ago. As I recall, the catch that pivots around the post in the door (???? -- memory rather sketchy, and my car is at another house right now) is covered in a rubber sleeve. Anyway, it was a small rubber part that had rotted and fallen off that kept the latch part from turning far enough to catch completely. Carefully compare your left and right door latches to see if the problem latch is "all there." As I recall, I bought a new door latch. However, they were much more plentiful back then (early 1990's).

A socket won't work???? I generally consider vice grips a tool of last resort -- when the part is already mangled or chewed up. Before you replace the water sensor, it might be good to test it with a multimeter. It's possible the problem is either in the wiring or the gauge itself.

I know you've tried multiple thermostats, but have you confirmed their operation with a thermometer in a pot of water on the stove? Does your thermostat housing have pits or voids that would somehow allow water to flow around the thermostat? (Running out of ideas...)

What can I say? I was a newbie, and I was apparently using the wrong search phrases elsewhere (e.g. Ebay). Among the things I was trying to find were door bumpers, which took me to his site. I also found the clips, so I ordered those too. I was dumb, and he took advantage of me. That's why I'm suggesting to others that they be very careful with this guy. Don't trust him, or he'll quite possibly rip you off. Rather, do your homework (as you suggest). All I can say is that people do make mistakes. (I made one.) However, I expect better treatment from people than I received from Jaeger. I would NEVER treat a customer that way in my own business. Not even close! I feel totally violated by this guy. I would never want one of my clients/customers feeling that way about me. It's just bad business.

I'll be the dissenter here. Carl Jaeger really ripped me off on some plug wire clips. -- $40 for a set. Others were charging $10. When I brought this to his attention, he insisted nobody else's clips were genuine Nissan. I showed him pics of Ebay auctions showing clips in genuine, correctly numbered Nissan bags, and he stuck to his stance that weren't really Nissan. He would neither do the honorable thing and refund me some of my money nor accept a return (even if I swallowed shipping). I have a note in my bookmarks that he's a supplier of last resort. If I ever find myself in a position where I need a part I can't find anywhere else, and I can't make the part myself or have a machine shop fabricate it, and my car will not run without it, then maybe I'll be contacting Jaeger, hat in hand. Maybe. However, short of that very unlikely situation, I will never do business with this guy again. My negative feelings about this guy are far stronger than my negative feelings about reddat. Reddat is sort of sneaky and short on social skills, but he'll at least accept a return -- at least for me. Carl Jaeger will stick with his rip-off, rudely and unapologetically, no matter how polite and reasonable you might be with him. Be very careful with this Car Jaeger (New Datsun Parts) guy! If he has something you REALLY NEED and can't find elsewhere, then go for it, with caution. However, be prepared to bend over and squeal like a pig!

Thanks, Ron! On that note, I think the only spare Z parts I have (that I'm not keeping) are a set of used carbon-core plug wires in decent condition. Admittedly sort of slim pickings in the Z department. That said, I have a few nice '65/'66 Mustang parts taking up room in my garage. Any Mustang owners here? If so, PM me, and I'll see what I might have for you. I think I also have some new brake pads (front?) for a '90 Volvo 240 that I no longer own. Peace, Sarah

Ron, I've PM'ed you about your intake system.

SEVEN DEGREES?! I think you're losing all your heat directly from the engine block to the cold air. I know this is an awful suggestion, but is there any way you can wrap the engine in insulation, at least during the winter? There's a somewhat expensive material that's a bit like stiff, silvery bubble wrap. You can get it at Lowes or Home Depot. We have it around our boiler, which runs at 180 deg. It's thin, it wouldn't mess up your engine compartment, and it would stand up to the heat just fine. Maybe you could wrap over the top of the valve cover, down around the right side, and under the oil pan (staying away from the exhaust). You could cut out for spark plugs and the engine mount, and you could probably find someplace to bolt down a clamp on each end. Hey, you might be able to save back just enough heat if you insulate only the bottom of your engine. That way it wouldn't look quite as goofy. Just a thought...

That's what I'd do, then. Epoxy can be pretty tencacious stuff if you have good surface prep. For instance, we had a huge rusting problem on our power boat's crank pulley. The roughness was chewing up our belts in short order. It's a Chrysler Marine 318, so parts are expensive and hard to find. I finally tried giving it an epoxy finish a few years ago, and that's worked perfectly since then. We use West Systems epoxy, available in many places, including West Marine (no relation between the companies). Any formulation without filler should do the job, though.

Tomo, I don't know about JB Weld, but some epoxy/filler products (especially the epoxy putties, and even polyester/filler products like bondo) absorb water and swell. I remember making some very nice sump pump assembly mounts that were secured in the bottom of the bilge compartment of one of our boats with epoxy putty. The mounts failed within 2 years, having swollen and crumbled. If the pitting isn't too deep, and if all you need is to halt the pitting process, I'd suggest just cleaning it up and coating it with straight epoxy. I've found the stuff to be pretty durable on our boats. I would only do this on the outside surface of the hose barb, though. Epoxy applied inside the housing could potentially flake off, travel, and lodge somewhere else. On another note, do you keep your antifreeze changed out at proper service intervals? It gets corrosive if it sits in your system too long, with breakdown products building to the point that the additives can no longer neutralize them.

... or move to a warmer climate!

I recently saw one of these vinyl wrapped cars (a minivan with corporate logos). As a graphics professional, I was very impressed, and I immediately started imagining how I could apply this process with my own printer output (although I only have a 17" carriage width). That said, the seams were quite visible, and it was anything but a perfectly polished finish. I suppose it would be better than an old, weathered paint job, but certainly not as nice as paint. It's obviously a very slick way to do complicated, full-color graphics on a car, but I don't think I would use it as an ordinary car finish. A note about the longevity of the graphic: The film might last 8 years, but if the car sees daylight, you'd better have your graphics printed in pigment-based inks. Dye based inks will fade very reliably and very quickly.

With my engine stopped and the starter disengaged (i.e. nothing else running), I can baaaaaaarely hear the fuel pump running when I energize it. It's a very low-pitched vibration. If your pump is "loud," it's probably about to die.

Wow, 22 deg... Toasty! I agree with the tech: "That ain't possible." Where there's fire, there's heat, even ignoring the friction. By any chance, do you have an oil cooler on your car? That could be bleeding off your heat.