FastWoman

Sound advice. I've often considered screwing my accelerator pedal to the floor and installing a rev limitor, so as to keep my RPMs as high as possible at all times. It might be a bit hard on the fuel economy, but everyone would really be impressed with my performance engine. Seriously, just because these engines can be run hard and fast doesn't mean you're being hard on them by running them from, say, 2000-3000 RPM. They're happy at lower RPMs too. Just don't expect 150 hp unless you're willing to wind up the engine. Jan, in answer to your question, imagine running your engine at an idle. It can handle that, right? Now imagine coasting down a long grade at a moderate and steady speed with the clutch in. Still no problem -- engine happy. Now imagine you go into gear in 5th gear, and the engine and transmission speed are perfectly matched by coincidence. The engine still has no load on it, and it's still happy at idle speed. What an engine doesn't like is being put under load at low RPMs. If you're just cruising along at a constant speed, there's no harm in shifting to a higher gear that is "comfortable." I don't go into 5th below 40 or 4th below 30. If I'm cruising at a steady speed in a high/highish gear, I recognize I might need to downshift to accelerate. No problem. That's what an automatic transmission does, and it doesn't kill the engine.

Well, the engine was running OK (not well, but OK) before I swapped ignition modules. None of my plug wires have swapped positions. I did pull the plugs one by one to regap to .060", but the wires went right back on after each one was pulled. It would be REALLY hard to screw up the wire order. I smell gas, so the injectors are working. I didn't work on anything but the ignition module, so I wouldn't expect that to change. All that's different is the ignition module, which sparks, but which may not be triggering on the right part of the waveform. It makes sense to me that inversion of the waveform would alter the timing, and the MSD tech support person pretty much said the same thing, although he seemed to think the engine could be started with either polarity. Anyway, I can repeat the trial and error approach, this time trying the opposite polarity of wiring, but it's a lot harder to air out a FI engine than a carbureted one. I've read elsewhere that my proposed approach of de-energizing the fuel pump is a good way to work past the flooding. If my engine runs, I'll just have to assume its properly timed, because the multiple sparks trick out my timing light. I suppose I'll need to buy another timing light. Dunno. Anyway, thanks, everyone. Wish me luck.

Basically pull the plugs and let all the fuel blow out the plug holes while I crank? I can crank by jumping to the starter solenoid, so that I don't engage the fuel pump or ignition. I imagine it would be a good idea to run two wires away from the engine compartment, so that I don't create any sparks near raw fuel.

Hi all, So I bit the bullet and bought an MSD 6A ignition module to iron out the last of my weak ignition problems. I did a really nice installation, both electrically, and structurally. I tested it. It sparked when I jumped across the magnetic pickup leads -- a HARD spark that went ZZZIT. All good. Then I tried starting the engine. I got an initial fire, as I often do, and then nothing -- crank, crank, crank. Anyway, I'll be brief, 'cuz I know y'all must hate my long posts: MSD tech support was unable to tell me what polarity to hook up the magnetic pickup, other than to say to try both ways, and go with the one that gives the more retarded timing. I initially tried Nissan red to MSD violet (positive) and Nissan green to MSD green (negative). Apparently this didn't work, and I flooded my engine. I then tried to determine which configuration gives me a correctly timed spark. Problem is that the multiple sparks seem to freak out my timing light. It's only good for one or two flashes before it stops flashing. It's a nice timing light (Sun), but it's also a bit fussy. Of course with more testing, more flooding. I can smell the gas! I did confirm, BTW, that I'm getting a continuous series of sparks, by unplugging one of the wires and putting it near ground. Anyway, I'm sort of stuck for the moment. Can anyone tell me the correct polarity of magnetic pickup wiring to make this thing work? Also how do I start a flooded fuel injected engine? This has never happened to me. Do I disconnect the fuel pump and crank to clear the cylinders? Thanks! Peace, Sarah

Oh, I'm jealous! Yeah, the Colorado Rockies are amazing! Better fix that throttle return before it gets you in trouble! On another thread, someone overrevved his engine when his spring broke and he depressed the clutch. Lowes and Home Depot have a small selection of springs. You can also probably rig a small bungee cord just to get you in to your new home. Enjoy the downhill coast!

If anyone is interested, I did a rather painless headlight relay upgrade on my '78 with about $5 in parts. You can find the details on the second page of this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35588&page=2 I posted a schematic around post 35. What I did was no more difficult than fussing with connectors in the headlight buckets. It involved going into the wiring harness, but all the connections could be made at the same point in the harness in a very accessible area. The advantage of my approach is that it uses shorter wire paths and is simpler. The disadvantages are: (1) It requires basic competence with making electrical connections and (2) it departs from the OEM configuration of the wiring harness. However, on the second point, the relays are easy to remove later, and the headlight wires can be reconnected to restore the OEM configuration if later desired by an OEM purist. Nothing is removed from the wiring harness. Would anyone like for me to post my method to a new thread? It was sort of glommed onto the end of my MaxiFuse thread, which started out as a thread exploring the possibility of substituting circuit breakers for my fusible links. I guess that's pretty buried. ;-)

3) Mean people. That's why I don't like the OEM antenna. It doesn't automatically retract when the power goes off, making it vulnerable to mean people. I can't help you with answers to 1, 2, or 4. However, if I were you, I'd wire in an aftermarket, fully-automatic power antenna.

Looks very nice! If that doesn't work out, you can also make a bezel to fit the circular hole, and fit a digital clock in there. I did that with my old '75 model (clock had already failed by the time I bought it, at a mere 8 years of age). My '78 apparently has a reproduction clock (from the previous owner) that looks original. I don't know where you can find them, but they're out there somewhere. ... but VERY nice job!

If your '77 is like my '78, there are two stopcocks. One is vacuum actuated and simply turns the water flow on and off. The other is variable and is controlled by wire with the temperature lever. If you have absolutely NO heat, I'm guessing the vacuum actuated stopcock isn't working or doesn't get vacuum. The little vacuum tubes can rot, and they can also come apart rather easily.

Mike, please let me know if you find a source for the spring. I have the same problem, albeit not as seriously. My shift will return to the center, but the spring action is rather light. I've learned to push to the center when coming out of 5th, but sometimes (rarely) I "miss."

Bingo! (I think...) That would be a #7 orifice washer I need to install on the part for a California manual version. I'm wondering, though, whether that would be the same for a non-California manual version. Are the California and non-California EGR valves the same? Jim, I really appreciate your help in looking up the number for me. Carfiche came back online tonight, but I'm having a devil of a time trying to find the EGR valve on it. The link you provided (nissanparts.cc) has a section for "classic cars," but that only goes back to 1980. I appreciate the guidance, Steve. I already have the part though (through Black Dragon). The problem is that I have to install the right orifice for my vehicle, and I have to use a cross-reference using the Nissan parts numbers. I suppose a call to Black Dragon would also clear this up. They're a great source, but they fall short on some things. It would be very easy for them to throw in a small slip of paper to tell us which orifice to use for a given year/model. Better still, they could just install the orifice for us to avoid confusion. (I didn't even know I needed an orifice until after I had bolted the part on.) Thanks to both of you! Peace, Sarah

Hi all, I had bookmarked a part number reference on the web, but it's down. I need to install a generic EGR valve on my '78 Z, but I have to fit it with an orifice washer corresponding to the OEM part number, which of course I can't find. So what's the OEM part number of an EGR valve for a '78 Z? Failing that, what's an alternative online reference to this one? http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/ Thanks so much to anyone who can look this up for me! Peace, Sarah

If the 240's are like many cars, you can hand-fill the bowls with some gas (e.g. pour into the vent holes) and run the engine. New gas should reach the bowls before they run empty. You can also run the engine a few moments on starter fluid until the gas reaches the carbs.

Idaho, there are far fewer Zs than there are Mustangs and Camaros, at least where I live. The survival of the model really depends on parts and the fact that there are (still) thousands of them around.

I'm afraid I have to pile in with the "Oh my god!" camp. Updating the working parts of the car is fine where necessary. Radical mods are fine, as long as they're reversable and the old parts are saved/preserved. However, I can't help but wince when I see the original body (whose parts are rare and precious) so thoroughly mangled. At some point you have to "respect the antique." This project could have been attempted with some less collectable, more recent car whose parts are in more abundant supply. Why sacrifice an S30 -- unless as Enrique suggests, the car is a dented, rusted heap to begin with?

After driving around on my slightly skinnier (OEM width) tires, I was delighted to discover that the steering is easier -- for obvious reasons. Wow, what a difference a couple of cm can make!

If you have the original radio, it wouldn't have any special power supplies. It can deliver to the speakers however much voltage is supplied to it. More voltage means more current means you can easily blow that 2A fuse. I'm betting the radio is still good, though. I'm very surprised at all the carnage in your system. Are you sure all the alternator was putting out was 16+ V? Melted wires (especially) shouldn't be happening. You should check your fuse values to make sure they're correct. If your instrument panel is laid out like mine (1978), your turn signal and brake lights are in the tachometer. The easiest way to get to it is to remove the tach. There's a screw on the top of the bezel, just in front of the lens, and there's another one maybe a foot deeper on the bottom side, underneath the dash. Once those are removed, the tach pulls out through the front of the dash. The speedometer unscrews the same way, but of course you have to undo the cables through the tachometer hole before you can remove it. The smaller gauges are accessed by removing the blower face plate (term?) and then unscrewing them individually. Good luck!

Also check the #2 injector to make sure it's clicking. Often the electrical connection will get corroded.

Nah, doesn't work like that. For instance, antifreeze breaks down over time, and there are additives to neutralize the breakdown products, thereby protecting the engine from corrosion. Once all the additives have been chemically consumed, the antifreeze becomes corrosive to the engine. Obviously you want to change the stuff out before that happens. Brake fluid slowly absorbs moisture from the air. This lowers its boiling point (thus courting brake failure) and also corrodes the various brake parts. I don't know whether regular usage and thermal cycling helps to rid the fluid of any of its moisture content. However, when the moisture content reaches a certain point, your parts start deteriorating. Most fluids are on some sort of a time scale, whether they get used a lot or not. How fast they deteriorate is often technology driven (e.g. motor oils, coolant), hence my question.

Well, OK then... Yes, what you say is true. However, things have changed. Taking the motor oil example, Nissan would have told you to change your oil (under your low mileage conditions) once every year back in 1978. Current thinking is that 1 year is too long under any conditions, and I've seen recommendations for as few as 3 months and as many as 6 months. Assuming our cars generally get more years than miles on them (which is even my own case, even though my car is a driver)........ Antifreeze -- traditionally every 2-3 years, but longer life antifreezes are good for 4-5 years. They have more/better/longer lasting oxidation preventatives now. Gear oil -- I have no idea, but I imagine the new synthetics should last pretty long.

Hi all, I've been spreadsheeting the service records on my Z and am working on a section that will flag me when maintenance items come due. I've been setting the schedules according to the recommendations in the Warranty and Service Booklet. Unfortunately those recommendations are 30 yr old. Things have changed in that time -- oil chemistries, coolant chemistries, hydraulic fluids, rubber formulations. Even what we "know" about essential things like motor oils has changed. Give all that, would anyone care to suggest updated service schedules for the following items? Per the Warranty and Service Booklet: plugs (15,000 mi / 1 year) brake fluid (15,000 mi/ 1 year) oil/filter (7,500 mi / 1 year) coolant (30,000 mi / 2 years) gear oil (30,000 mi / 2 years) inspect hoses and belts (15,000 mi / 1 year) lube steering, suspension, axle joints (30,000 mi/ 1 year) rotate tires (15,000 mi / 1 year) How would these service intervals have changed over the years? Also what items would you add, in the interest of competeness? Thanks, everyone! Peace, Sarah

Andy, the VR in my '78 alternator (internally regulated) was slowly going bad several weeks ago. The regulation point kept climbing, until it reached 16.25 V one day. I ran my headlights on the way home to drag down the voltage a bit. I had a replacement alternator installed the next day. Anyway, my 16.25V didn't seem to blow anything out. Even the battery was fine. Maybe I was just luckly. Bulbs are probably going to go out long before fuses. Fuse values are appropriate to wire sizes, which are (usually) much more than adequate to feed the bulbs. FAIW, 14-14.5V is a good, normal charging voltage.

I got the grids today. They feel very much like my BFGoodrich T/As did. However, I've not driven them on dry pavement yet. The fit is much better -- no rubbing. The tires are noticeably smaller, but not objectionably so. Having the narrower tire (195) on the wider rim (7") looks perfectly fine. Glad to be back home. It's been a rough day, between the tire shop possibly tweaking my front end OUT of alignment, an elderly woman trying to attack me with her car as I was leaving the tire shop and she was leaving church, and an exploding tartar sauce bottle at lunch.

Lead-footed driving in my younger days in my '75 -- about 16 to 18 combined city/hwy More sensible driving in my '78 -- about 26 hwy and 18 city. Mileage will probably improve as I continue to work bugs out of the engine. I think there was a thread on this a few weeks ago. Lots of responses.

OK, here we go... I'm a whole lot closer with the new coil: Peak voltage=500V Burn time=1.6 ms I did multiple captures, and this is about as normal as the waveform gets. Some waveforms took negative swings of -200 to -300 V. Some have a much shorter burn time. There's all variety of randomness from pulse to pulse, including large variations in burn time and waveform. I spoke too soon about the false triggering of the tach disappearing. It still false trigger on hard acceleration, albeit not nearly so much. I also scoped the +12V rail to see if I have some problem with the alternator. Although it doesn't look like it in the above trace, the voltage is mostly quiet. I get the same low level quavering, but I see it at all scales in about the same magnitude on the screen (i.e. not of the same absolute voltage). It seems to be internal to the oscilloscope, relating mostly to the fact I've not been thorough in grounding the oscilloscope to the computer. What I did see was approx. 16V spikes over baseline (i.e. 30V peak, with respect to ground) from the ignition spikes, measured at my MaxiFuse block. I'll be replacing the condensor off the + post of the ignition coil. I checked at a local auto parts store, and they don't have the Nissan-style condensor (with two wires with bullet connectors). I'm guessing these noise suppression condensors are all approx the same, since values aren't specified? I have a new condensor off of my last alternator, which I can tip with a bullet connector and bolt to ground. I'll try that. Anyway, although the waveform looks much better, it's still very irratic. My next step, I think, will be to replace the ignition module. Then everything will be fresh and internally compatible: new/rebuilt OEM distributor and reluctor rotor and cap apparently very recent new NGK wires and plugs MSD Blaster 2 coil and finally... MSD 6A ignition module