FastWoman

Very cool! I checked ebay, and there was a nice 50 psi one for about $20 used. Unfortunately you may have temporarily set that market on fire. The gauge sold in the few minutes between when I did the search and when I looked at that listing! The rest are considerably more expensive or have inappropriate scales. Grrrrrr.... But I'll definitely keep my eye out for one. Thanks for passing along the tip to those of your Neanderthals friends who aspire to be Cro-Magnon!

No sun roof! The waitress would have to hang out the window or climb on the roof.... Oh, snap! Roof surfing! The dim-witted writer(s) really missed out on a great opportunity there!

Oh, man! That was a dumb, dumb show! Whooohoooooo..... Why is it that smart people are always portrayed this way? I've known quite a few extraordinarily smart people, and none of them resemble these bizarre TV characters. Hollywood! But it was fun seeing a ratty 240 in a TV show, and I did enjoy this one episode. Sometimes bad is good, but only when taken in moderation. Oh... and it was absolutely necessary to dangle the ethernet cable at 200 mph from the landing gear of the plane to the waitress speeding down the runway in the Ferrari, because setting the plane on the ground would have been impossible with air traffic control systems down.

Hmmmm.... I'm thinking a digital fuel pressure gauge, a digital vacuum gauge, and a wide band O2 sensor in a triple gauge pod on the driver A-pillar.

Actually, if you need a bigger filter, these things are great: http://www.amazon.com/Sierra-International-18-7932-Marine-Separator/dp/B001F0GQQ6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1411878034&sr=8-9&keywords=marine+fuel+water+separator Any water fraction and/or crud falls to the bottom of the filter, where you can drain it off via the little valve at the bottom. The filter is built like an oil filter, except that it flows all the way through and has threads at each end. It's a quality product, and it's indispensable for boats that live in the water. Tip: Grease the o-rings slightly, and don't over-tighten them. I once had to cut apart the can to get it to separate from the clear bottom. No fun.

Glad you got the right part! FAIW, when I pulled my tank, I found my filler hose to be in extraordinarily good condition -- pliable, shiny -- probably similar in appearance to yours, except that it had no leakage issues. When I cleaned it up, it appeared new, except for the impressions of the clamps. It appeared to be made of some high-tech rubber, perhaps nitrile. I'm curious: How did yours fail? Did it suffer a rip? Did it crack?

I always felt one function of the evap tank is to separate fuel from air and vapor, such that liquid fuel wouldn't glurp into vent line and dribble out the bottom of the carbon canister. Anyway, it's a complicated little bit of engineering (so many tubes!), so I figure there was some thought put into it and probably reasons as to why it was done the way it was done. As old as I am, I can recount several times when I've simplified something, only to find that there was good reason for the baffling complexity. If I were stripping down a 240 to race, the evap tank would probably go. But for a 280 that's a DD, it only makes sense to preserve the original design. Just my opinion.

Sounds like vacuum issues to me too. Of course when you did the headers, you had to at least unbolt (maybe not remove) the intake manifold. Did you re-gasket both? These engines are notorious for their rusty studs and leaks around the #6 and (to a lesser extent) #1 intake runners. In fact on my engine, my #6 exhaust was blowing right into the #6 intake -- sort of an enhanced local EGR thing going on. I'm guessing all your vacuum lines are a lot more raggedy than you think. It's a cheap and easy project to replace the whole, sorry mess with new lines. Go buy a bunch of hoses/tubing at your local auto parts store, and go to it! Follow the diagrams in the factory service manual (far, far, far better than Hayes or Chilton's), which you can download for free here: XenonS30 You might also replace that cracked intake boot, which will cause you to run leaner if/when it leaks. I don't know how you fixed it, but I would think a durable fix would be unlikely. That part is still available, as far as I'm aware. Courtesy Nissan might have it. Also check ebay (caution if dealing with reddit -- more expensive, with steep shipping).

Well, if you don't find it in the SF area, we do build a few boats around here. If you can imagine it being used to construct an aircraft carrier, we've probably got it. FAIW, the marine-grade hoses can be surprisingly flexible, but I don't know whether they'd be flexible ENOUGH. One thing is for certain: They won't kink when you bend them. They'll either flex far enough, or they won't. You might also be able to accomplish the bends with metal fittings connected by segments of hose. Dunno...

Where has the car been these past 37 years? If it has lived most/all of its life in LV, then it's quite likely it has no rust. So if it's straight, it might be a good car. I don't think you could go wrong for $600. A basic tool kit will get you through most mechanical work. These cars are quite easy to work on. With a cheap paint job, I think you'd have a fun ride. Is there potential for a full restoration? Maybe/probably. However it will be quite an investment of time and money. Very few cars are worth the restoration cost from an investment standpoint, including a late 280. So you'd be doing this just for your enjoyment. You simply need to ask yourself what sort of car you want to have. If you want a VERY NICE 280, then this particular car is not cheap. Instead, you should shop for one that's already restored. It will cost you much less. But if the object is to have fun driving and working on a very sexy, vintage, classic car, then this might be a great opportunity for you. FAIW, I think these cars look pretty cool even when they're rough. Stray tip: Don't park the car in the summer sun in LV! Old windshields are already brittle, and I know what the sun does to your windshields there!

If you think it's possible to bend around a straight piece of generic hose, you can find just about any size of fuel-rated hose at Hampton Rubber (Hampton Rubber Company, Inc. - Welcome). They don't ordinarily do mail order, but if you ask them nicely, they'll take an order over the phone and ship it to you. I believe any USCG rated marine grade hose is suitable for fuel, and I've bought such hoses as large as 3" in dia. They come even larger than that! Anyway, give them a call, and ask what they can do for you.

It's the one that goes to the carbon canister. BTW, don't apply much pressure. Remember that it's a large tank. Besides that, there's a weird little check valve between the vent system and the carbon canister. It actually flows two ways, but it flows easily in only one direction. That might make it difficult to pressure test from the carbon canister connection. If I were you, I'd just replace the hoses for peace of mind. If they're as old as the car, then they're due.

I also believe the original radiator is fine. They don't make them like they used to. My only aluminum radiator experience is with more modern cars. Most notably, when the plastic tank on the side of my Miata radiator was showing that tell-tale mottled green/orange/brown camouflage coloration, I was advised to replace it before it blew up on me in the middle of nowhere. Not really trusting plastic components, I decided to buy a (yes, cheap ebay) all-aluminum radiator. It didn't fit right, and it leaked somewhere in the core. I had to file a dispute to return it. I then got an OEM-style aluminum/plastic radiator from AutoZone for about the same price. It came with a lifetime warranty. The first one I installed leaked, so I exchanged it for another, which has been working fine. I really wish I could have bought an old-school, brass/copper radiator instead. That would have saved me a lot of work. If you MUST go with an aluminum radiator, spend a few $$$ for a good one.

I would two general sources: (1) Gassy exhaust smell entering the cabin through rotted or misfitting hatch seals (or rust hole in body). (2) Problem with fuel tank ventilation system or filler neck. It's possible you have a leak in one of your vent hoses, such that when the gas sloshes just right, you get a little glurp of raw gas inside the car, behind your rear passenger trim panel (where the fuel/air separator and filler neck run). If you haven't replaced all of those hoses, you should. Also check the nipples on your fuel/air separator (the big, irregular can-like thing behind the trim panel). Mine had a cracked braze joint one one of the nipples that sometimes leaked raw gas.

If I recall correctly, you get about 5 sec of fuel pump operation when you turn the key to "start." Thereafter, you don't get more fuel until the engine actually runs. For the '78, a running state is detected when you have EITHER alternator output OR oil pressure (or both). Your oil sender being unplugged would eliminate the oil pressure detection. That leaves the alternator, which wouldn't be putting out much while you're cranking. So I bet you have no fuel.

It would be a pretty slick trick to clean and wave-"re"-solder the PCBs. I wonder whether they do that. Otherwise, I suspect it's just a clean-up, spruce-up, repaint. If it makes your car run, you're happy. If not, you return it for another one. I think others (Captain, Lenny, can't remember...) determined that there aren't really any common failure components -- no electrolytics or anything. These are pretty solidly designed/built circuits -- just elderly, with unique personalities.

Personally, I'd sell it to the Subaru friend. He might not know much about these older cars, but he can learn. They're not really all that complicated. Half of the fun is in the learning and discovery, anyway. Since it's a running car, he can enjoy it now and make improvements as he learns and makes time.

Well, as someone who owns both a Z and a Miata, I have to say in all fairness that the Miata is much more fun to drive. It's very nimble and zippy (thanks to the 1.8L 16valve engine -- better than the original 1.6L), and it rides the road as though it were on rails. If it were a hardtop sports coupe, it would be perfect. (I really don't like convertibles for safety and rain issues. Even removable fiberglass hardtops don't resolve these concerns for me.) However, I also have to say that I feel much more "cool" in my Z, and I agree it's a much sexier car. The Miata is very cute, especially with its headlights ("barn doors") up, but I do have a love affair with the styling of the Z. If I were hitting the open road or going for a drive in the city, I'd pull the Z out of the garage. If I were taking a short, spirited ride in the country on a beautiful day, maybe the Miata instead. Both cars have their merits. FAIW, an '89 Miata (which would have the 1.6L engine), is now 25 years old -- considered an antique here in the US, and 5 years off from hitting that magic 30 year mark in Norway. For the (better) 1994, with the 1.8L engine, you'd have to wait another 5 years still. Anyway, it's just something to think about. Honestly, my recommendation is to own both, but I realize that isn't what you're wanting to do.

I'm so sorry to hear about your four colleagues on MH17, Chas. Anyway, congrats on the product launch -- Keytruda -- for treatment of HIV, I presume?

I admit if you have a thing for the lines of the Z, the Z is probably the most affordable and accessible example of that sort of styling. I completely understand, and it's really THE most important personal reason I own one. It's simply a gorgeous machine. Not that it's quite as sexy, but it's very, very cool... The Volvo P1800. It's a bit closer to your neck of the woods. Just a thought.

As much as I love the Z, part of its appeal to me is that it is an economical car to own and maintain. I think if I were a European, I might want to take on a car with parts and support a bit closer at hand. There are quite a few very noteworthy European sports cars that would catch my eye. Heck, the Jaguar E-type makes me a bit weak in the knees, but it's a very expensive car (to buy, to restore, to maintain) here in the US. Most Z owners want their cars to become valuable, but I want quite the opposite. I want them to be available, cheap, and fun. (FAIW, a first-gen Mazda Miata MX-5 is right up there on my list of cheap and fun.)

Welcome! I don't have specific answers to your questions, in terms of time and money. Among other things, I don't know how good a Z you can buy in Norway in your price range, and I don't know much about parts availability there. However, I can say my experience here in the Eastern US is that my Z costs no more to maintain than more modern cars I've owned, and in many cases it's cheaper. Of the cars I've owned in the past decade, I would rank them in this general order of cost to maintain/repair, from most expensive to least: 2001 BMW Z3 3.0i, 1966 Ford Mustang, 1978 280Z, 1992 Saturn SL-2, 1994 Mazda Miata. Of these, the BMW is far and away the most expensive, and the other 4 sort of cluster together, such that it's hard for me to rank them. Restoration is another matter. If I were heavy into restoration and cared, for instance, to have a properly chromed bezel around each tail light, then SOME parts could get rather pricey. However, parts for day-to-day repairs are pretty reasonable. The issue that sometimes arises on these cars is that a part is no longer available. Then you have a choice between a salvage yard part and the retrofitting of a different part. Neither of these is a particularly costly choice. The former will solve the problem for a while, without much time or creativity required on your part. The more permanent (and usually better) solutions require a bit more time and fiddling. The Z is a well enough supported car that there's a retrofit fix for just about any issue you might have, and there are also many cottage industries set up to help you along. Let's say your headlight / turn signal switch goes out, for instance. You can do any of the following: Fix the mechanism yourself, using information provided online. Pay someone else to fix it. On this list, Dave (Z's Ondabrain) used to do this and perhaps still does. Buy a used, working part In addition to the above, install electronic flashers and LED lights to take electrical load off your switch. In addition, install headlight relays to protect the switches further. Long into the future, if all our switch assemblies have crumbled to dust, print a replacement with a 3-D printer, mold yourself new parts, adapt something else, or whatever. Keeping these cars on the road is not difficult at all. Restoring them to completely OEM, show-room condition can be a bit more challenging, but it's still possible. And finally, as classic cars go, the Z is still one of the more affordable.

Very impressive! However (just pointing out facts), my 280 can go 80 mph WITHOUT hitting a wall.

Holy plaid pants! That was quite a sweet deal on a 4-year-old Z! Batman's super bargain vision wasn't working very well.

Maybe better, if this one is really made of glass (seems to be), then for an investment of $65 or so, with a bit of fuel rail modding, you could have one inline with each injector -- function + bling. Amazon.com: Bikers Choice Clear-View Glass Fuel Filters - Fits 5/16in. I.D. Hose 71424: Automotive Part of the appeal of this one is that the fittings are actually made of metal, vs. the plastic screw-in fittings for the other one. The hazard is that it might leak, hence engine fire potential.