orange 73

My 78' 280z is finally alive again!! time to celebrate!! I have had the motor built and on a stand for 8 months, 5spd tranny rebuilt, fuel injection system rebuilt, engine bay repainted, all engine external parts rebuilt/replaced. It's so good to here it run again!!. I have a long way to go to final restoration but soooh much of the hardest parts are done. I would like to say thanks to everyone here for the time you take to post your problems and solutions, I could not have done this without your help! I don't post much but I am here about everyday looking and learning, I will get some pics posted as soon as I can. Thanks again, Mike

I plan on getting my 78 280z finished this year if at all possible. I went from a junkyard destined heap to running heap to gut it all out and restore it. So far I have the motor rebuilt and a 5-Speed tranny to go behind it. While the motor is out I have the engine bay repainted, all rust areas repaired on entire car and all suspension removed bead blasted re-painted and re-installed with new springs and struts. I am working on the brake system now with new parts just in. Man these little cars do take alot of time, but I can't wait till it's done. Mike

Thanks guys for the info, I am just trying to get my 73' 240 running so as to have a driver car while I am restoring my 280. It's coming along but I have a long way to go. Happy new year to all. Mike

Thanks guys for the info. it makes sense now that you describe the process. One other question I have: Can camshafts be interchanged from the different L-series engines ie, 280 cam into the 240 head and vice versa, and what if you are using the old rockers on a new cam, will the new cam break in correctly? Thanks, Mike

Jeff thanks for the quick response, I understand the proceedure you are decribing but how do you deal with the spring tension/pressure on the cam lobes to slide the cam out? Thanks, Mike

Hi, I want to replace my cam on my 73 240z and want to know if it is possible to do it with the head still on the car. Just to preface my question I have done a head change before so I know about the wedge in the timing chain and torque specs and all. I guess my main question is can you remove the camshaft with the towers which will involve removing the 5 long head bolts and in the process not have to "re-torque the head bolts" in the typical 'center out' pattern. If anyone can help it would be great! Thanks, Mike

Like Arne says tell him to paint! I personally like to paint as many parts off the car and re-assemble, it has worked well for me.

Carl, the headlight 'buckets' as they are commonly called have threaded studs on the back with a very small nut that fastens them from the back side (inside the front of the front fender, also a few maybe 3-4 6mm bolts that fasten them on to the main body section. You should be able to get these from a bolt supplier or even a decent hardware store, maybe even Lowe's or Home Depot. These are a 5 minute fastening job, 1 year for paint work is ridiculous.

Thanks for taking the time to post all of your great looking work for all to see. It's so much easier for all of us doing the same things on our cars to learn from good pics and posts like yours. This sight is an essential part of my restoration!

From the pics the car looks pretty good, as long as you have a descent shell of a car you have something worth building on. I bought (2) 73 240's this spring and am working on both now. They looked terrible at first cosmeticly but they are very sound structurally. I live in New Mexico so these cars have very little rust, of course on any of these cars you will have to decide how far you want to go with the restoration. Time & money is all it ever takes to do anything, but I like doing as much as I can myself for the learning experience, and it's FUN!! Use this sight to answer your questions, it has saved me much time and money. Good Luck!

I am installing my new Eibach springs today along with the Tokico shocks on my 78 280z, I was looking for the answer to which spring goes front or back. I finally found it at the bottom of the box that the shocks were in from MSA. The little note reads: Eibach Progressive Rate Springs "The part number on the spring ending in 01 is the front spring" (shorter spring) "The part number on the spring ending in 02 is the rear spring" (longer spring) That is the note everyone wants to find in the spring box from Eibach I hope this helps, and another poster said to make sure the word Eibach and the numbers read right side up when the spring is installed.

Will, thanks for the tips I will give them a try. Mike

HLS 30 I looked at your photo gallery and I am currently at the photo you show on your post pic. with my 73 but if the finished one in the gallery is yours I am truly inspired now!! Mike

Hi , I didn't expect a reply so quickly, but I do have a question that I have yet to find a good answer for. I have several places on my 73 that are rust pitted but not rusted through, they are too deep to sand out but I don't want to just fill them with bondo or spot filler and have them come back to haunt me later any ideas?

I am new to this club and to the whole online social thing. I am looking forward to talking to people here because I have recently purchased several cars in need of restoration. They are good buildable cars but will take a lot of work, I have restored cars & trucks in the past & then got out of it. I am learning a lot about parts sources now & look forward to all of your help that I can get here. Thanks, Mike