lubu

Cant really tell best bet is to remove the battery and start poking it and you might be able to bring it down to 1k

I forgot to ask, I need some tips on how to remove the chrome plates at the rear quarters, there seems to be 3 pins holding each, I tried to pry it but it didnt move and I dont wanna bent it. Thanks.

If you're good with a welder than its will be easy, some rust places are indeed hard to get, you will probably find some more around the rear quarter windows, underneath the rubber seals. The area underneath the battery area is mostly likely rusted, if you poke a screw driver through it the sheet will crumble and break. But again if you're good with a welder than its very doable. Can you post a few pics of the current car you're working on?

More pics of the lovely FeO, gotta love rusted bolts that just snap in half when you try to screw with it...and the paint-over just made the whole process even worse. I had to chainsawed-Texas a lot of those bolts, not fun. Just a word for anyone whos planning to bog their car with out the rust treatment first, DON'T DO IT. Found heaps of rust underneath those bogs...now where did I put that disc cutter? Rest of the car is in good shape, I do have the suspicion that white is not the original colour, scratched some paints and I see burgundy underneath:rolleyes:...confirmation will be made when I start stripping the paint off.

I took the plunge today, cant stand those bubbles and bog areas any more plus my car needs a new paint. So with lots of swearing and sweat I managed to strip off pretty much of its cloths. Found some awesome rusts behind the fenders near the wheel arch, some underneath the rubber seals at the rear quarter windows....

Which parts do you need Matt? there's a 240/260 wrecking near my house which Ill be giving it a visit soon. Shipping might be a bint though.

@ Johnny'O: its HS30-00067, I live in Australia. @Mr Camouflage: Im new to welding and that's my primary concern, although Ive done some work in jewelery welding. The seller didnt mention anything about chassis damage. The other problem is we already filled up the garage with 5 cars, I need to get rid of one if I'm going to take this baby in...sight*

There is an early Z with front end damage on sale, body number is 67 and comes with matching engine and spares. Price is in the territory of 3k, problem is I'm already undergoing a 2+2 project, should I take this one too? very tempting...

My bad, your word is a phoneme, it combines with other words to make meanings; eg: クマ = bear (kuma) クラス図 = diagram (kurasu-zu) ..but, Ive also heard that it can also have meanings such as a bow (bow and arrow) or to do something eg; to drink or to smoke. Ive included a picture to show the different between two words, notice the strokes in power and ku, they are quite different. Please let me know if Ive made any mistake. Thach

HS30 the third character means "see". Dave that word does not mean power.

Here is a diagram from FSM :classic:

Update, Screw in your solenoids and vacuum tank to the strut tower. Connect all your vacuum hoses to their correct places (see diagrams). Vacuum source can be connected to the intake manifold (thats where I connect mine). Hook the connectors together. Cover the A/C lines by the firewall with something like this. Drill 2 holes and you're done. From the selector connect the vacuum hoses to their correct places. Since my car didn't come with any air ducting I didnt know (still dont) how they are all connected. So I made up a 3way air-duct. Basically air from the unit outlets are diverted to 3-way ducts which distribute air to the side vents and defrosters. The 3way duct itself has two large and a smaller openings, one large opening is to accept air from the unit outlet the other large leads to the side vent and the smaller opening is to the defroster, this means that most of the air will flow to the side vents and little will go to the defrosters, but if I pull the knob to shut the air then the defrosters will get all the air flow. My descriptions is crap, picture says a thousand words (better words). Connect the inlet/outlet hoses for the heater matrix, you should have a fully functional (minus the air-conditioning) climate unit at this stage. Start the engine, warm it up and test all the settings include heat, look/hear for any vacuum/water leak. Make sure all the connections are secure and tight, change broken/leak hoses if necessary.

Taking a break from installing the air-con unit I decided to put in a different armrest and cut the center console back to where the shifter is. The armrest it self has four cupholders, 2 front 2 back, coins compartment and it can slides I got an armrest from a 6gen celica, st202 BEAMS to be specific. With a grinder and electric drill and 2mm plate I got myself a bracket. Dont worry if the bracket isn't measurements perfect, you wont see it anyway. Good thing is that you can slide the top and lock it in any position you wish. I slide it all the way back to cover the plate and there it stays. Flash on and my cam start acting weird. Need to cover the exposing metal but that will be another day.

Since I couldnt really find any complete threads on how to install factory air-con into 260&280z I thought I would make a progress thread so people who, like me can find the infos that they need in completing the conversion. This conversion will take months, since Im not always at home so bear with me. You will need: Phillips screw driver Plier Set of hex Beers First thing is to take off your dash, I thought I can do it without taking it off, which I kinda did but I couldnt install the air-con assembly this way coz it is way bigger than normal heater assembly. So save yourself the hassle and take off the dash first. Negative cable off. Empty the coolant (you dont have to but might as well) Unhook the inlet and outlet hoses Remove the blower according to these instructions Follow these instructions and remove the heater. The normal heater doesnt have the two screws circled in red. You are half way there. Spoil yourself with some beers... Now just install the aircon assembly and blower in the reverse order of removal. Enjoy the blower on 4th speed Ill attack the condenser, vaccum lines, valves....tomorrow. BTW where is a good vaccum port I can hook up to?

Dave its a 75 Ill be sure to check the site out. Cheers.

The seats are fluffy coz of the extra foam I stuffed inside and Ill fiberglass the console probably sometimes of the end of year. Thanks for the links, if only had I know them before commencing I wouldnt even bother with this upholstery :stupid:

Ive just KBYed the floor pan and cowl area. "Managed" to vinyled the seats, not the best looking seats in the world but arent too shabby either. Dont mind the "getto" center console, Im still in the process of vinylling it, and she just received GT Grand Prix mirrors Still have alot of plans for her..too bad everything has to be onhold for at least a month...till Im back. Cheers Thach PS: dont think vinyled and vinylling are actual words

Some FeOs....nothing major but they're there. Some carpet....:classic:

Hello all, I brought home a beauty couple of weeks ago, been bz fixing here and there, shes a 260z 2+2, 5 spd, SU carb, extractor with L28 engine. here are some pics...

Hi, Can anyone tell me where this steering wheel come from? Thanks

Have you try the starter?