lubu

any thoughts?

Im looking to buy a set of triple weber 45 with lynx manifold, it is already tuned to the following specs and I was wondering if you guy can give me some quick advice before I take the plunge. My engine is an L28 stock. Thanks Choke = 36 venturi = 4.5 Main Jet = 145 Air corrector = 180 Emulsion Tube = F15 Idle jet = 60 F6 Pump jet = 35

Thanks guys, I'll confirm after when they are here. As for the bolts, should I order them from Nissan or any high tensile bolts will do?

Does anyone know what Z those cvs came from? They look a bit long for the 280zxt's, Im thinking of the z31 NA cvs but Im not sure, could be z32? The reason I ask is I want to source the bolts for the cv to the flange. Thanks

Ive marked the yolks so thats not an issue. But Ill try the 180 degree rotation and rotate the grease nipple 180' if that doesn't work.

I removed the halfshafts & driveshaft today to replace all the unis, upon completion I connected only the driveshaft back to test for any vibrations (the halfshatfs are not connected), so the diff companion flanges just spin by themselves. It was all smooth until about 80kph or 50mph then I can hear the tunnel vibrates, kinda loud. If I rev it pass that speed then its fine, tried gear 3,4 and 5 and all have the same problem. When I install the unis I put both the grease nipples on the same side (the nipples are on the caps) instead of opposite sides, could this be the culprit to the vibration? They are a few grams max, could it be that they caused the vibration since we are talking high rpm here? Ive yet to rotate the driveshaft 180 degree and I'll do it tomorrow, also since they tunnel vibrate without the power transmitted to the ground Im guessing the same thing will happen when the halfshafts are connected?...Please give me some inputs, I dont really want to remove the one uni and rotate the nipple to the other side. Thanks

I know this is an old thread but I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out what Ive done wrong. Thanks monkeyman, you saved me.

Thanks for the pics Zs, but with that setup I think the windows crank will fit? That is one massive setup for such a small car, I do like the kick panel pods though, are they custom made or purchasable?

Hey guys, just finishing my paint job and Im thinking of putting a new audio system in. Im getting the Hertz MLK 165 for the front and Critical Mass RS69 for the rear backing by an Mcintosh MC440 amp. I was wondering if I can put the Hertz in the front doors (depth is 8cm and diameter is 16.8cm:tapemouth) a little bit too big for the doors I think, has anyone managed to put anything this big to their doors? If possible can you please post some pics.

Keep it, I went through all the troubles to installed one, and never looked back.

Ive just installed 300zx powered seats in my s30 and I must say they are very comfortable. The brackets however, are different for driver's and passenger's so don't make the mistake and duplicate (ask me how I know) other than that they fit fine. Also remember to use high tensile bolts for the brackets and the mounts.

I think you are spot on, I was going with 4.11 but now I settle for 3.7, its has the best of both worlds. You could go with the 3.9 too, 4.11 is too much IMHO.

Paul is spot on, if you can do metal work it shouldn't cost that much just very time consuming. But once you started you can't stop...rust killing is very addictive

But I thought the world is trying to cut down the ciggie consumption. I guess you know best

Awesome read, very informative. Thank you so much for this.

Sounds to me like you're not getting enough fuel. That's what happened to me when I tried to tune my carbs, choking and coughing and dies... it took me the two days to tune it perfectly. Try to adjust more fuel and see if it idles...I'm thinking your air/fuel ratio arent balanced. Get a 280zx distributor, it does wonder.

I got it from eBay couple of yrs ago, they are Xenon though.

Here it is in action.

Found a pair of OSRAM HID projector from a previous car project and I thought this would be a nice contribution to the Z. To make sure that the projectors give appropriate lightning I test fit on the old headlight assembly. I cut the bottom of the headlight to the correct diameter, then I proceed to cut the bottom of the housing to accommodate the extended length, if you do this be careful not to cut the tension spring since we'll need it to adjust the angle of the light later...I also upgraded the headlight harness so that they operate on battery. Not too bad for an hour work.

Update, stripped most of the paint using strip pad with angle grinder. Probably another 5 hours or so to finish the job.

Get rid of most of the rust, new paint, upgrade brakes, projector retrofit, redo interior...so much to do and so little time

Same here mine is a 260z and I removed from the front also. Virtually impossible to remove it from the back without removing the whole dash.

I think he just want the shell as he has the drive train from the one's working on. If he is good with welding it wouldnt cost him 6k to make it a 2k car, plus some prefers 2+2s. I have an MR2 and honestly its not very versatile I can drive only one of my friend in it. But yes if he has the $ its much better off with a better car.

Your fan clutch might be stuck which leads to a slower warming up temp. If there's a clog in the water route there's a good chance that the clutch might also be clogged, since the car sat in the barn for 5 years.