Z Kid

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2436248402&category=45571 If anyone here is bidding on it and I let the cat out of the bag sorry. It looks ok, but sounds a bit shifty from his descroiption, would definitely be worth having a look at if you were close though. Cheers Chris

Hmm, if in a crash, a tissue box from the parcel shelf of a car has the force of a brick, and can break a windscreen/crack a skull, I wonder what a sub box could do. I hope they are all bolted down well. Can you turn it up flat out without getting enough bass to stop your heart, or pop your windows?

Well its not my house, but its where I live for the time being so thats good enough for me (you cant see the shed/sheds but its nothing special, just a heap of cluttered junk and british rubbish, and of course a nice datsun or three) Cheers Chris PS Alan, I too live underground in the basement (from my room you go upstairs to get into the cellar), and on a 40 degree day, you cant beat living dug into the side of a hill, nice and cool.

Why polish them when you could just buy this immacualte set of 5 already polished, 4 with good sticky 205 rubber

My little brother holds the record on this one, a morris mini shell (all 150 odd kgs of it). Me and dad were outside the shed, and the first thing we heard was a clank followed by a loud profanity, followed by "get me out", we ran in, and there was my brothers mini shell, rolled over wedging him against the shed wall, he still wont tell us what he did.

I think when he refers to slip yoke/flange he is referring to how the driveshaft attaches to the back of the gearbox. If it was a flange system, it would be bolted there with four bolts, similar to how your driveshaft attaches at the diff end, and I think the driveshaft would have to be a two piece affair to allow for a little bit of slip (ie have a splined joint to allow for movement in the centre) the slip yoke is what I think most standard Z's (with the exception of the early early models) have where by the driveshaft is splined and simply pushes into the back of the gearbox, and the movement in and out is permitted by this system, meaning the driveshaft can be one piece. Cheers Chris (Of course I may be wrong, I often am)

Surely it wouldnt be bare metal, maybe silver spray paint, or some other coating. I have two splash pans, one from a 73 240, and the other a late 260, and whilst both of them have fair amounts of surface rust on them, there are remnants of a very thin coat of black paint (not the type of coat that someone doing work on a car would do, more like the factory we need this to stop rusting for the next three months, so this dusting of black paint will do) Not sure, I cant see something that was as exposed as the drip tray being left uncoated (Maybe in a British car, where they had the inbuilt anti rust system read leaked oil everywhere) The plot thickens. Chris

Just make sure its a true option box, not just a dogleg box out of a 180B SSS, you could be all excited over nothing (speaking from experience here) Cheers Chris

At least in the end you got it all sorted. But which ones do they usually send, a pair of the peglegs, or a pair of the normal ones. After all this time, I am sure you will be sad to see old pegleg heading back.

Having observed a molasses tank in action, I can say for a non-abrasive method of cleaning its positively great at removing all the build ups on metal parts, but takes ages. Muck simpler is to go down to your local engine rebuilder, and bribe them to let you hang stuff in their cleaning tank, removes absolutely everything and is quick and fairly cheap.

If you are passing on it, would you mind posting the details and any digital photos etc that you have of it for your fellow New Zealanders to have a squiz?

If you have basic ability, a few suitable spanners, and a good work space I say go for it. But I dont think it would be all that cheap, you are probably looking at all new rubbers etc?

Hey all. Just for the NSW guys (in particular those close to Temora). On the 18th of next month there is going to be a drag race at the Aviation Museum, as well as a fly in of all sorts of aircraft. Its not Z related, but its going to be between a D Type Jag, and a spitfire, should be good to watch if you are nearby. Cheers Chris

Yeah they are 260Z mags, and they sold, but I have another set lying round too. Email me at Thorci00@hotmail.com if interested

I am just a poor broke student, and can happily admit that nearly every cent I made in my holiday job went straight onto the Z, the 1600 and a mini (we all make mistakes)

Well if everyone is giving advice, i may as well have a crack at it too. Chris's Advice: 1) Find the biggest tree in the backyard, tie the endless chain to a bit of rope and climb up and secure it well. 2) Roll the car under it and proceed to undo the appropriate bolts. 3) Its now raining and wet so give up for the next week or so. 4) Weather is improving so we will give it a shot, hoist the motor up, and realise that maybe that wind is stronger than you thought, hmm that gearbox just swung dangerously close to the windscreen. 5) Race into the shed and grab the ride on mower, rush out and tow your Z shell clear. 6) Struggle to control a wildly swinging motor keeping out from under it while controlling its descent. 7) Go have a few beers. Next time I use and engine crane, only piece of advice is do not attempt to wheel the crane with the motor high, wheel the car back then lower the donk. Cheers Chris HAVE FUN

Each to their own, but money says a spraypainter could walk up to that car and pick faults from 10 yards. I am sure for what you wanted it was acceptable, and probably for most people it would have been good, but and i say but, only the owner of the car knows just how perfect they want their car to be. It is easy to spray paint, the difficult part is getting it perfect in the end, so no-one can come up and pick any flaws. Polishing and rubbing back is great, but a good spray job will have the car coming out looking awesome before you drag out the old wet rub. And if its a metallic colour, its a whole different kettle of fish.

If you guys think you can go out with no skills and get a good paintjob, you are fooling yourselves, I have painted three cars, all with the help/advice of a friend who is a boat spray painter at various stages, and sure it looks easy but its not. Halz in regards to your problem, I would email Cuong, as he is/was a panel beater and should be able to put you onto the guys who did the work on his car (which is the best paintjob I have ever seen on a Z). The other thing is that to get a good durable finsih, two pac paint is the way to go, and thats an Isocyanite based job. I'd rather it killed them than killed me. If you want to have a go do, but remember you can screw up your car beyond help doing it yourself. Good luck, but my money would be on asking Cuong PS Depending on the type of bog it is, some bog is meant to be applied directly to bare metal, and the damage from just bogging it up is often less than that of a hammer wielding amateur.

BMW Stock colour called anthracite.

Hmm its cold and wet outside, and I spent last night sleeping under my car, so I will give you the old photos, and if anyone wants more I will take them in the light of day. I dont think it has ever been bent, and the rust is just along the leading edge, and is only a few pinholes, and a pinhole on the side. (I would put money that if you had your rust free bonnet professionally stripped, you would come up with at least on rust hole on it (assuming its original)) http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=5233&password=&sort=2&thecat=500 Cheers Chris strippedshell9.bmp