Z Kid

You only need half the shims they supply you with to get them to hold on too . Its not difficult but make sure you invest in a flare wrench (ring spanner with a side missing) for the 10mm brake line nuts. Round one or four of them off and life starts to suck that little bit more. Chris

I know when putting them on the 1600 you have to grind off the outer lip of the backing plate to make then fit right down, or get the fins machined off the bottom 3mm of the drum to fit. I would suspect that the 240K would have more in common with a 1600 rear end than a Z. So yes they are the same size, but may require some trimming down.

He had the prince on ebay several times a while back now, I cant for the life of me remember what he wanted but for some reason 10or11 sticks in my head. There is a guy near me with three or four GTB's in varying condition.

We did get them here in Australia, I had one for a few years Gav, there is some potential there, but very limited potential. The bay is very small and restricted by the suspension componentry and height. You add to this the front end which parts are unobtainable for and nothing really to swap into the front (apart from some ute parts for discs) and its more effort than its worth. A cool looking care none the less. Chris

I'll grab a pair of the badges Ash Cheers Chris

Awesome looking car, glad you finally found one that suited your needs. Also when it comes time to get rid of the watanabe rims, let me know, I could be interested . Chris

I love those rims, infact I love the whole car, looks awesome. Chris

I know if I sell it I am going to regret it. However that said, there is limited storage space at home, and bsaically all of it, plus my bedroom is full of bits and pieces, and the last few times I have been down to the shed to work on cars, its no longer been fun, but rather made me angry. And when it comes to that, its just not worth owning the old cars anymore. I'll keep one, so it just depends on which two sell first, but I think the one I will end up with will be the least desirable of the lot (the Landy). Chris

It is with a heavy heart that I am offering my Z for sale. I will become one of those people who took on a restoration and ran out of steam before they finished it. The way I see it is as a student working part time and owning 4 cars, I cant afford the money or the time to do the car justice. What you get; 1973 240Z Car is totally stripped down to all components. Has been to bare metal with new floors and under floor rails Still needs a bit of rust work, but most of the pain in the arse stuff done. Car was an auto, but will come with manual pedal box and bits, plus two good 5 speed gearboxes. Parts All plastic interior panels present most in good condition 2 sets of tail lights (one excellent set one good set) Reskinned Dash Working clock plus three sets of gauges 2 240Z motors complete 1 260Z motor 1 Spare E88 Head 2 complete sets of 240Z suspension Some 2+2 suspension bits 4 diffs, 3.54, 3.7, 3.9 I think G nose 5 piece from japan G nose bonnet hinges new in box ZG style flares from japan New in box fender mirrors All hinging panels excellent except for the LHS guard. (All bare metal with a single coat of etch primer, so you know what youa re getting) 2 Windscreens Spare side windows Extractors Spare excellent loom King LOW Springs Rotiesserie Tub is alright nick, needs a bit of panel work, but pretty alright really. I am sure there is more but that will do for a start I DO NOT WANT TO PART IT OUT, You take one piece you take the whole damn lot. Alternately you could buy either a 59 Landrover, or 62 Mini 850 with 998 Donk (both in excellent nick) and I can keep the Z. I am after 5500 for the whole lots of Z stuff. If you are going to be a tool and make an inappropriate comment about the price, feel free to do so in your own thread. (rough breakdown, 1500ish purchase price, 1400 paint removal, 250 Floors, 300 dash, 1500 nose and shipping etc, 80 frame rails, rear patch panel repair bits 50, 150 Etch primer, boxes 300 each (600), spare suspension 300, 260 motor 150, diffs 100 each (500 bucks worth), mirrors, hinges etc not cheap) The list goes on. ONCE AGAIN FOR THE PEANUT GALLERY, take all smart arsed comments and put them in your own thread. THe problem with idiots posting thier unneeded comments here is that you will drag me down to your idiot level then beat me with experience. Pictures of most stuff in Gallery, will take more of anything you want to see. Email or PM me with any specific questions, or I can be called on 0422504004.

Fine looking project, however and I am sure you have it all worked out, make sure that the head is not higher than the filler point of the radiator, or you end up with air bubbles in your head. Another thing to remember with the SR and a system like that where the return to the radiator will not flow down into the motor, you really need to backfill the system with coolant first, or its not a pretty result. Awesome car though. Chris

Hmm, stunning car I agree, but still underpowered when you compare it to something like a Z. I would still love to own one, but if I was going to get a Tina, I would go all out and get the GT500 spec . Chris

But you have to consider that its very rare that a semi decent tub gets offered up for sale here, and if you have a car thats been snotted and needs a new tub its far cheaper this way than buying a whole car to do it.

I am with you on this one James, people seem to buy an old car for 4-5 grand and expect it to be better than a brand new 20grand car. There are some absolute tools out there who seem to want everything to be perfect for nothing. Its a fact of life if you own an old car you have to be prepared to do some work yourself, even if its only the small stuff. For $1600 I would have grabbed that straight away had it been in SA and I am sure if he had waited a bit longer the second seller should have been able to get what he paid for it (you cant expect to get back what you spend on any car though, its a fact of life), thats an absolute bargain for what is essentially a very tidy and useable (with a few quirks perhaps) car. I had this issue when I sold a worked 1600 Datsun I had, the new owner begged to buy it off me, then proceeded to badmouth me behind my back for months (till he wrote it off), there was nothing wrong with the car, but he wasnt used to something without fuel injection and the lumpy cam. It appauls me that anyone would badmouth something like this probably more than a year after it was bought. If he was stupid enough to think a sub 5 or 10K car was going to run forever without problems he was an idiot. Next time you sell a car, offer the 12/12 warranty, they have 12 seconds or the car moving 12 inches and its no longer your problem (which it isnt). Sorry for the rant but behaviour of clowns like this whinging about the costs associated with running an old car are absolute idiots. If he really was truly mechanically ignorant the person who inspected the car should have told him an old car wasnt the thing for him. But hey he could have learnt, a local car club is a wealth of information for things like this. Disgraceful behaviour on the buyer and mates part. Chris

I dont think a computer fan and battery would be the way to go, damn helmets weigh too much as it is and here in australia you arent meant to attach anything to your helmet. The done thing here seems to be to attach a blower system to the helmet (we do it in off road racing because it keeps you cool and the dust out). The blower of choice seems to be a Kombi heater motor mounted out of sight with a bit of tube that can either go to a plumbing fitting on your visor, or if you lash out and buy a fancy Bell helemt, they have a in vent already on the body of the helmet. I agree, helmets suck for any long period of time especially in the heat. Attached are a couple of systems so you get the idea. Chris

Mines still sitting in the shed on the rotisserie, just about ready to throw it in the bin today. Spent 4 hours migging stuff and at the end of it its only a 10cmx10cm area, have to hate quadruple layers of steel. Add that to the fact that the other cars in the "Fleet" all need serious work too and the fun of old cars seems to be rapidly diminishing. I have the mini sitting with its freshly rebuilt motor out of it again because I was supplied with the wrong oil seal. The landrover is up on jackstands with the brakes apart still trying to chase the unknown cause for brakes only working on 2 of the 4 wheels (now think it might be a rubber line collapsing internally under pressure) Dont you guys ever get really sick of old cars and just think that life would be easier with a little hot hatch or something? Chris

Cheers for that Ben, its a nice looking bus. Remarkably straight and original looking, that said the lack of a giant oil puddle "the self anti rust system" under the car makes me think it might not have its original motor. Chris

They will be at their once only price till I get them perfect I think. Ie all drilled all filled undercoated etc. I looked into doing carbon fibre and came to the conclusion that the price was insane, the finished product wouldnt like UV light long term, and if I stuffed one up I would be severely pissed at myself as well as broke. That and the fact that due to the angles, I would probably need to sort out a vaccuum setup and I am not ready for that yet.

Try two, I sold that set and have since knocked up another set. Still need filling and sanding, but less trimming involved. No takers?

Guys, I got a set of flares from Japan for my ZG buildip a year or three ago, and made up a mould of the flares for various friends race cars. I made a few sets and this is the last set. They would require trimming and filling of a few imperfections (they were destined to go on a race car) but are very dimensionally accurate compared with my set which came from japan and are supposedly very close to the original "ZG Style Flares". They are cut oversize (look rough but there is enough material for the buyer to trim back). I will be doing a few sets in woven fibreglass mat at some stage in the next 6-12 months, but it wont be a while as I have developed a nasty fibreglass allergy. So here it is the one and only set left, at a once only price. $180 for the four. Once again I stress you will need to do some filling, sanding and plenty of trimming, but the overall shape is in my opinion good, and you can see a left rear held in place and it sits well with no pressure. I head off for a week Saturday morning, so unless they go tonight/tomorrow, I wont be back on for a week probably. If you are in around SA somewhere I can drop them off Saturday Morning on my way out, alternatively they could be sent via Australia post, however would need to be determined if the overall size was too large to post. Cheers Chris

Mr Datto; Yeah I got mine from restorers hotline/rare spares here in SA. And there service is second to just about everyone. They are rude, expect payment upfront, then fail to deliver on time, and justify that me waiting 8 weeks to source a part from Sydney is alright, because if I had ordered a rubber kit from the states it would have taken them three months. They then will refuse you a refund and expect you to wait. Awesome bunch of people, and I would have thought by now they would be getting sick of my weekly phone calls and just give me my money back for the parts they havent yet sent. But from what I understand all the Australian floorpans are made by one manufacturer. Corgan; If your car bends without one floorpan in it because you rolled the bare shell on its back, the car is somewhat unsound. The front seat mount stays in, the sills are still on, the trans tunnel is in, and perhaps the box crossmember too, you really shouldnt be able to twist bend the car in that state. That said I dont think it makes a big difference, except when welding on the under floor rail, welding upside down always sets me on fire. And besides if its upside down, its at the right height to work on no more stooping.

Phil, They did a reprint of the project Z magazine articles (somewhat condensed) in Zoom magazine a few months ago. They may still have back issues of it? Chris

Awesome pics alan, it really is an amazing car. Thankyou very much for taking the time to show us them. Can be yet more inspiration for me to get off my arse and work on my car. 260DET, surely the ZG being a factory produced model should be allowed, I mean they let in "280Z's" which have HS30 firewall numbers?

What exhausts, what car. If that skirt was any shorter you could practice lip reading.

My last response didnt seem to appear. Get a ping pong ball, wrap in alfoil, leaving a little onion like tail at the top to hold onto. Hold lighter underneath till it starts to smoke and you are in business. Thick horrid smelling smoke and lots of it, probably toxic though. Good Luck

A roof vent is only any good if you are not following any cars, and in bulldust this means that you need about 2-3 minutes on a still day? Are you really going to let the opposition get that far ahead of you on the dirt sections, surely you will be wanting to round them up . Just remember to shut it as soon as you start catching a car infront, or it makes the dust problem 10X worse.