Z Kid

Just me, but I always find those race harnesses are too damn restrictive, sure they may save your life, but have you ever tried going throgh a drive through with yourself pinned to the seat, even reching some of the dash controls may be hard. I am personally really fond of the lap belts, so free and easy. I guess its a compromise, safer in a crash means pain in the arse till you crash Where will you mount them george, remembering you need to keep the mount point at the same height as your shoulders, or you get really weird forces in a crash (trying to rip your seat out and shrink your spine)

From the sounds of it even the motor alone would be worth it, And if the front panels are any good, they are worth a pretty good price too. That said, I have sold doors off at a good price, advertise on OZdat and its amazing what you can sell.

Door locks fit fine, tail lights should be the same, but because it is wider, the filler panels will be different. So is this Z any good?

Before I got my welder, I used the local weld mobile, a guy in a little van, bought all his own stuff and would weld anything for a flat rate of 60bucks an hour, and had some damn good advice too, and he really liked it when you payed him 60 bucks an hour to sit and drink beer and answer questions. If you are really worried about the strenght, try and find your local equivelant (watch out he was good at setting stuff on fire too). But I really can't see any strenght issues with that repair, its when you find your frame rails full of bog that its a bad thing.

I can see no problem with that repair, the thory behind welding is that the weld is as strong as the metal surrounding it. Problems arise when you get poor penetration of the weld (only really a problem in thicker metal), and undercutting, which is where too higher current is used and you end up with something that looks good cosmetically, but is in fact weak this shouldn't be a problem here as the joint is an overlapping one, not a butt joint. I can see no problems, however if you are going to put high horsepower through the shell you can repace these with something a bit more heavy duty. I think that repair should be as strong if not stronger than the original rail that surrounds it.

Holy cow Mike, your bike has an engine bigger than my car (by 300ccs). You know what they say about people who buy/ride large capacity bikes?

Sweet F*&k all, the springs etc are heavier and highher, none of the interior panels fit, basically they are the same from the windscreen forward. All I got from the rest of the car was a single strut tower cap, and some loose change from under the back seat. The brake set ups appear the same, however any lines that run along under the car are going to be that little bit too long.

I will hold off until I find out what the 1600 is like at higher speeds, its fitted with the skyline 5 speed and a 4.1 ratio diff. If thats ok, I guess the 4.3 should only be another small step in the right direction for scary acceleration.

Are you sure the gold and sivler are in fact different types of mags? In all the sets I have had (only 3) there have been traces of the gold epoxy coating left on the back of the wheels, and the two spares are still almost totally covered in the yellow/gold coating, was it a clear laquer finish that aged badly? Or Were they in fact two different types of mag wheel?

I just emailed them about the diff on their site, But steered away from it for the same reason you did, who the hell knows what the guts of it are really like. It could have come from some little old japanese ladys Z that got ran into, or it could have come out of an ex drift car that reached the end of its useful life. Besides, I have three R180 diffs to blow before I need to upgrade Maybe after that I will get one. Besides I now have a friend who is importing container loads of crap, so I will try him first (not sure what my chances are like though)

DAMN you man, two 260Z's and a 240Z and I am still yet to end up with an R200 Diff.

Yeah thats the only place I could find that would even knew what a long nose diff was, the other local mob were shocking . I change my vote, I think maybe it is an r200, its certainly got a very square outline. The R180 rear outline is much more rectangular, I go for an r200 now.

From here it looks like an R180, see the atttached pic to work it out for sure. The R 200 has a squarer outline when looked at from the arse. If its an r200 you are after, just found a shop that has a long nose r200 cluch type lsd 4.3 ratio for 750.

I think I am obsessed too, at the age of 12 I bought my first car using money I got payed for mowing lawns for people in the street. From that point on I was broke, then one day I looked up and in was done (full body off rebuild of a 59 landrover). Then I got bored, started getting out more and it was costing me more than when I was doing up the car, so I got the Z, then I wanted a datsun to drive around in so got the 1600 (still a small project) So far I have spent almost 2k on the Z including purchase price and have nothing to show for it, one day maybe. Then I will need to find another project, at the moment our entire 30X20 shed is full of my cars, plenty of unhappy people I can tell you that.

What did you use and how bored were you? ie how long did it take? Damn that looks neat.

Don't suppose you have a lonely rear strut tower cap you want to sell?

Well I have found a few trinkets on Japanese Ebay that I would like to have, however I can't bid, nor will the guy ship internationally (from what I can gather from his add when chucked through a translator) So I need to find a middle man who buys stuff, ships to his adress, then either ships to me, or just chucks in an outgoing container on its way to melbourne or adelaide? Does anyone have any ideas or recomendations?

Another easy one is does your hatch have one strut or two to support it? 1=240 2=260

In terms of the ultimate new car, it would have to be the Farboud GTS for my liking, fast, great styling and a fun drivers car. However if I was goign for a mass produced car, it would have to be something japanese, and seeing as Nissans new cars are not seeming to be built too well, it would have to be a toyota. BMWs are nice (we have a 3 series one) underpowered yes, but it will still clip along happily at 140km/h with bursts up to 160, only being slightly unstable, still very quiet at these speeds, bar the sunroof and radar detector chirping happily. This combined with good resale value and very comfy interior and great fuel economy makes it not a bad little package. But still overpriced to begin with, to buy an audi you are now buying a VW platform and paying for the audi badge, and the resale is not good, in the end its the dealer trade in or nearly give it away. Still the farboud if we are talking dream cars. http://www.farboud.com/farboud.htm Wouldn't mind a porsche GT3 either, but don't like the idea of the clutch being designed to self destruct if you stuff up a downchange, rather the engine over-rev for a fraction of a second than a few grand in clutch disintegrate. There is the story about japanese components ordered by an american car company, they ordered x million units, with only .4ppm defective being the acceptable rate, when the order arrived in the US, they had packed the defective units seperately, and were left wondering why the yanks would want dodgy merchandise. I shall step off my soapbox and be flamed, but thats my 2c

Making one is not a problem, and it is what I intended to do originally, however I have not been able to find the dimensions, a part number etc, but not the dimensions of the steel and the actual overall size it should be. Even if someone just goes and measures theirs and grabs a photo of the part where it hooks into the firewall, it should be more than sufficient to create a pretty close replica. Cheers Chris

Not sure where I should have posted this, but you can be guaranteed that it ended up in the wrong spot. I am after one of two things, a few detailed photos of a battery hold down bracket for the 240Z, or a cheap one that someone is willing to sell me. Prefer one in Australia, but if its free, I guess the shipping would beworth while. Looked everywhere and can't find one here. Cheers Chris

And even worse in adelaide at the moment there is a certain individual buying up every two seater he can, last count was five or 6 two seaters. It just makes it harder for the rest of us.

Go the 1600's, mine is just about ready to hit the roads, not sure why you are calling that rusty, yours has rear quarters, which puts you ahead of where mine started. Have fun, they are a pretty cool little car IMHO.