Z Kid

Well all you SA ppl, sitting in a dealers yard on main north road (the one opposite scottys motel) is a very neat looking white 2+2 260, complete with a 1 owner sticker on the windscreen, I've been going to uni before it opens, and coming back after it closes, but it sure looks well worth a look, no price indicated on it yet. Cheers Chris

Just looking at an article here that rogerZ was kind enough to lend me, and it rates the 2+2 auto as good, if not better than the GT falcon in all but the point and squirt parts. PS, need any bits, I've got a near complete one I'm wrecking, and If it has those flat top carbs, boy do I have a deal for you!

Well my 240 Shell is now currently almost totally stripped down, I'm in the process of selling all un-necessary bits etc i have accumulated in order to be able to afford to have the car dipped to remove the paint, then its body work playing with me for the next few years till after I graduate, so I can afford to finish it off properly.

Wanna video it for me , I shall supply the video, but god i wish i had Pay TV :disappoin

Thats good, I'm glad it fitted, i can stop worrying and spend your money now ross

Not sure about over there, but here in aust, the 510/1600 rear setup is nothing like a Z, the finned drums don't even fit on.

A light rebuild to me is a hone, new rings bearings etc, where as a major rebuild is a rebore, new pistons, all balanced, new hardened valve seats, new valves and cam etc.

Until told other wise (probably by alan) that car is a mongrel (2 hatch struts, which is 260Z, 260z dash, but 240z lights, also japanese spec with 4 speed, is that correct?

Even though its a 260? What is this world coming to

I haven't had much work done by mechanics, however I have used two local places, both of which were great. The best way to find a good shop is to look at whats in there workshop. The engine rebuilders (they just bored it i did all reassembly) workshop full of drag cars, racing minis, model T's, sterile area humidity controlled etc. The mechanics, a nice tidy workshop, a pair of rolls royce wedding cars, mats laid over everything, and both were well priced, but if they have a shop full of good cars, chances are they are good and careful.

Looks great but under the bonnet is poor, and the window thing may not be that easy to restore back, and the tyres he has fitted are stretched so much to get them over the rims.

THe pair of them advertised in the trading post, while not nice, they are very nasty. FOr about 2500, you could have yourself a 240Z shell (rough) with a twin turbo quad cam V6 motor, 4 wheel disc brakes and lots of other goodies. (SA trading post)

Ozzy Guy, Club rego in South Australia permits you to drive your car for 90 days of the year, be it a club run, or a nice run through the twisty bits. THere are no restrictions on the use, other than a max of 90 days, filled in by a logbook (requires honesty, but the penalty for cheating is harsh)

Not totally sure if it can be done on full rego, over here in SA, they're having a big crack down, especially on LHD converted cars, cos some of the mustang mororns were using a bike chain system to get the steering wheel from one side of the car to the other :stupid:

Do you want to know why the detergent makes your hands grippier? Its due to the dissolving of the skins protective layer due to the basic nature of the chemicals involved in order to get the saponification reaction to work better. Its probably not good for it. I have found the best grease remover to be just powdered clothes washing stuff, does the same thing, but in contact for shorter time, and its got an abrasive component as well. Stay away from industrial stuff, it heats up on contact with water (bad). And with wearing gloves, there are some things that shouldnt be done. From my experience these include: Using the rattle gun Using the air sander Using any tool that spins round, and makes the rubber grip, you spend your life unwinding yourself. ANd if you buy cheap (doctors latex) gloves (or steal i mean borrow them from your workplace) they dissolve in fuel and make a gooey mess with similar properties to napalm, but it you're lighting stuff around fuel, you deserve to burn in hell anyhow.

The other advantage of having it blasted before welding, is it removes all the paint and crap which catches fire (invisible throught the welding mask) which you don't notice till you start to burn, or the smell gets you

Yeah, they contain the two bulbs, with a divider, and they are orange/clear, and not in overly good nick, but just thought if you were after a daily driver bit, it may be of use

Bugger, I'm of no use then, mine have the two globes/compartments

Mr C, are they the two bulb, or single bulb type indicator lense that you are after, I may be able to help

Well in the heat of the moment, I purchased a whole 260Z 2+2, Only need the LHS frame rail, so if you need some bits, give me a yell. Its complete, and extras such as towbars are available too.

Whilst not a technical emergency, it is a moral emergency. I have tried to buy this Z car twice, the first time the owner wanted me to think about its worth, then make him an offer. So tonight I rang and made an offer just short of his asking price. Then the Son of a Bit%h has the nerve to turn around and say he needs some time (not a problem, needs to think about it) then says I want to put your offer to the guy who was intersted, see if he will pay a bit more. Well, with steam coming out my ears, i said call me back when you've thought about it. Now according to most people I should ring the guy and tell him to shove the Z up his arse, and the phone up his left nostril, but I want this car. What is the correct way to deal with wankers like this guy. I need/want this Z, I have the money, and know its full history. Conversely I don't want to get into a bidding war with another young chap who is interested, and seems like a top bloke. Cheers Chris