Z Kid

Well, after many long years I have finally finished uni and have some time to start working on the Z again. However Since it was disassembled some parts have become mixed up with bits from the parts car(s), as it was all chucked into storage in a heap during a shed cleanup (when I wasnt finished). Id rather clean and paint the right parts first time round. The car is a 73 240Z The rear mousache bar, I have two types, one which is fairly straight, and one which has a sort of kink in it which would position the diff further forwards (all are from R180 Equiped cars) If it makes a difference, the rear suspension mount has a bit of a curve backwards in it, compared to the one in the parts manual which appears straight. For the front diff mount/suspension mount for 73 should it be the one with a single large half found cut out in the bottom, or the one with a large on one side and a small on the other side? I know they arent facing the same way round in the pic, blonde moment, large cutout should be to the LHS The crossmember at the front is a 240Z one isnt it . Rear suspension arms are all the same? Reason being some of the 240 ones had some dings and tears, so just going to use the best pair I had? As a side note, when I took the car all apart, everything was photographed in detail etc, but that was all lost on a computer long ago, so this isnt going to be as easy as I hoped .At least most of the smaller bits are baged and labeled. Thanks Chris

Riding a scooter is like F#%cking a fat chick, its fun till your mates find out. It didnt happen until you get caught

That's all folks, George and Dave get the remaining two. Cheers

Yes, I still have the other two here. If you are in adelaide for work, I can probably drop one off to you (in there for uni most days now) Chris

Hi guys, its been a while but I am gradually getting some work done on the Z. After much bashing and damaging my spare suspension arm, I decided to knock myself up one of the fabled spindle pin pullers. In the process of doing so I am left over with enough high tensile steel threaded bar to make two more of these. They are nothing fancy, basically a bit of CDS tube capped with a welded on washer or two at one end, a wheel nut welded onto a bit of threaded bar, you simply wind onto the bit of the pin sticking out, then tighten the nut on the other end and it is gradually drawn out. On the prototype I have now pulled out 4 spindle pins, and it still appears fine and damage free (although the free washer is a bit gouged up). If anyone in australia is interested or keen, I will be more than welcome to knock up the remaining two and sell them off for $40au plus postage (wont be more than 45 total including postage, or can be collected from me in SA). I will also throw in a spare washer or two so if you are doing bulk spindle pin pulling you will be able to do so without needing to lash out and buy anything else. Chris

Its Z car related because it teaches us how to deal with any would be scammers within the Z car community. And the item in question was a set of shockers, I could lie and say they were Z shockers if it helps? Anyhow I think I have tracked the guy down (god bless myspace) and now have a contact for his boss within the armed forces. I left him a little note on his myspace page explaining all this and I am sure he will feel its time to do the right thing. Thanks for all your help guys. Chris

No luck with that search, any one got one that can work straight off an adress. Mike a phone book is what you use to beat the crap out of someone through so it doesnt leave surface bruising .

Hello all, Sorry to post this in the forum, but I was wondering if there were any residents of Yuma Arizona who would be able to help me track down someone who felt it necessary to take payment for an item then never take the time to ship it to me. Worse still they didnt have to ship it to me, just ship it to a friend in the states who is bringing back a car in the next few days. I was wondering if anyone had a phone book for the area and would be able to find a phone number if I provide them with a name and address. I am not willing to put their name up on a public forum, but if someone can help me with a number, or a kneecapping/ concrete boot and river service at a reasonable price, I will PM them his details. Thanks in advance. Chris

Nice project, just out of interest whats the mini project, an 850 or a cooper? Chris

Just a point of interest, if you have a dry powder extinguisher mounted laying on its side, its practically useless, it will only discharge about 1/4 or less of its powder, unless you shake and tap it to get the powder down to the bottom for about 30 seconds or more. So whilst it may be great to have the extinguisher lying down in an out of the way place, its almost (but not quite) as useless as not having one at all. Chris

The porsche CV joints are the same as the CV's on the larger BMW sedans (identical) The BMW shafts may almost be close to being the right length if you are lucky. A problem some people face with them is that over time in insane HP applications the bolts loosen off, this is fixed by using two dowels and four bolts to hold each CV joint on. Chris

The 2+2 ones are the ones on the right, I dont think it would be a good idea to mix and match lengths, as it would affect the length of the axle as the end of that flange pushes against the inner bearing and would dictate how far out it sits? Might not be any problem if its only 4mm, infact 4mm of extra length holding the spline may be a good thing, unless it binds up the CV joints and breaks a cage letting the whole lot go leading to a heap of flogging going on.

Hey guys, I sold the set here, and at the moment I just have the one set left which has already been spoken for. I think I have to make another pair for a friends racecar, which will mean investing in sufficient quantitites to make three more sets, if I do this I will let you all know. Nothing will be happening for another two or three weeks because of uni exams, but I will let you know if it does.

I got my shell dipped in a non acidic (basically I think it was like a big drum of brake fluid but not oily). There is no damage to the underlying metal, and the residue left behind will dry to a white powder that can just be blown off the car. It means that a few nooks and crannies will be hard to get paint back into, but overall it means that I know exactly what the base car is like. I think there are some pictures in my gallery of it how it came back. Chris

Hello Gav, I think we may be in business, attached is a picture of the spare 240 Legs I have and the 2+2 ones, they have the four bumps on the hub flange. If this is indeed what you are after I shall get dismantling in the not too distant future. Chris

Nah cant really ship to US as they would need to be crated in a wooden box, and the shipping would end up being about the 150-200 mark. Chris

Hmm, just has to go $150OBO including postage anywhere in Australia, after this that will be it for the time being, way too much on at uni etc etc.

Well done on the times, as for the cage on the street, as someone who has been in a bit of a crash with a cage and cracked my helmet, I would cringe to think what would have happened to the old watermelon if I wasnt wearing a helmet and my head had struck the barwork.I beleive this is their logic, a cage without a helmet is far less safe than no cage without a helmet. Might be time to make the call as to whether the car is going to be a race car or a street car sadly. Chris

I had some peanut throw a water bomb at my car recently and it smashed the door mirror clean off, the reason I say peanut is I watched him run into a yard (as I was struggling to control a car with all 4 wheels locked up ) The fear in his eyes when he saw me coming for him was almost as good as the fear in his eyes when I explained to his grandfather what the little $^!# had just done. Heres hoping he got a good thrashing.

Hey guys, I have one set of ZG flares left over from the last batch I made (wont be doing any more batches unless someone asks for a set and I tend to make a few sets in bursrts). Good condition, grey gelcoat. $200 including postage anywhere in Australia. If the buyer wants to pick up and wants them untrimmed I can do them even cheaper. Chris

Its 250mm from centre to centre long, and about 55mm wide including the bush width at the point where it mounts.

If you go the S30 mount, I have a trans tunnel and cross member lying round I could cut the tabs out of. Let me know. Chris

Thanks for that, just what I need

Seems odd, but I guess there isnt a demand for them that much at the moment. I have a damn resleeved cylinder on the landrover, which since resleeved has always stuck when left for a week or so without being used, might have just been done poorly, admittedly it does come unstuck after a few heavy applications, but until then it throws the car horrendously off balance and spears it across the road . Brake fluid has to be pretty good at what it does, it has to have a super high boiling point, because when it boils your brakes are no more, it shouldnt absorb water too much (But it does and should be changed yearly or so), it has to maintain dimensions as the temp changes because if not as the wheel cylinder heats up on braking it will increase pressure and lock a wheel. It also cant be allowed to freeze (not an issue where you are). And has to be non damaging to the braking system. I think that new silicone brake fluid will not damage paint, but if used in an old braking system (any old parts) something will react and seize up everything. Oh the joys of brakes, thats what the manual box is for

I would be inclined to ring PBR for new cylinders before going the resleeve option. Surely they must be available somewhere, failing that whack a set of ZX discs on the back and be done with it . Happy brake work, and make sure you dont get any of that fluid on your nice shiny paintwork . Chris