Z Kid

I assume you are going to have to cut a fair bit off the old exhaust anyhow to get them to the right level as to where the extractors end, after that you can buy a joiner from the muffler shops that doesnt require any welding, or you can drive it down with the exhaust open and get them to weld it all up, noisy but possibly the simplest way to go.

Should be all the same, given that the engine and gearbox out of a 2+2 bolts straight into a two seater I say go for it.

I dont think so, because the 280ZX has the sump in a different place to the 240/260 doesnt it? Sorry doesnt help really, but I would get him to stop before he starts if its not too late. Cheers Chris

My 73 doesnt have the indicators in the guards, but no 132 (or was it 134 I cant remember) that I looked at did have them in the guards, maybe it was a whatever we have in teh parts bin they get on the car?

Another stolen image, thanks Alan

Hello, these higher quality and somewhat better images I must confess are not mine, but were taken by Alan (HS30-H) for some unknown reason he can use a digital camera well and I cant .

Here is a picture with a few measurements

Guys what measurements do you want? I can take some measurements and stuff, but until I can find a normal hinge (in daylight) I wond know exactly whats different. From memory I think it would be alot of work, may be better off starting from scratch? I will work out some measurements. Cheers Chris

Its 30'long, and 20' wide, the idea being that the project and fun cars would live up the front of the shed, with heaps of room to work around them, and then the lawnmower and other cars would be at the back where they are readily accessable. This was also dictated by the fact that the shed is recessed into the hill. It comfortably (very comfortably) holds four cars and heaps of rubbish. If you can, go for the biggest size garage as possible, me and dad were aiming for a 60x50 but sadly these plans were shot down by a mother who liked the view into the back yard a bit much. But as a result there is going to be another smaller shed built further down the back yard for some other assorted bits and pieces. Try to have one beam that is strong enough to support a block and tackle with a motor or Z shell hanging off it if you can, I have to use a tree out the back of the shed, and its a bit worrying on a windy day when everything moves around a bit much. Cheers Chris

Our current setup is a simple 30X20' shed, with a workbench up one end. We opted for no windows etc as they tend to attract people with fairly light fingers. It has instead those clear roof sheets every so often which provide great natural light. So what would be done differently. Your standard over the counter shed will not be strong enough to hang anything up in the roof (I wanted to put 150kgs of stuff in the roof), any attempt to do so brings massive flexing of the frame. You need a pit, I cant stress this enough, I am forever at friends houses with pits doing various little jobs, as long as no-one drives into it, its far safer than stands ramps etc. A car lift would be an ok alternative. Make sure you have power points everywhere in the shed, and if you have a compressor, run lines around the perimeter to plug into as well. A big shadow board for all the tools. Self control, dad built the 30x20 shed for all his toys, me and my brother cut loose, his car still lives outside. Cheers Chris

I have a pair of good british SU carbs with a manifold and balance tube to suit the 240K, as well as the rod from the firewall to the carbs. They were running well apparently on a 260Z but I cant back that up. Let me know if you are interested.

I have some hinges etc to suit, I dont think I can get anymore the nose was imported into Aus by a friend of a friend who owed him some favours. Rather circuitious route, and it had me worried for a while when a container full went missing (Thankfully not mine, but should anyone see a lonely looking container with a WRX and two MX5's in it that's the lost container ), but it duly arrived. I have the bumper, but it wasnt unwrapped for those photos. I am going to try him again when it comes time to buy a set of wheels, but I dont think he will do too many more small deliveries. Most companies wont do small things via sea freight unless they charge huge handling fees, the only other option being air freight, but there are still the customs fees etc attached to landing them in aus. Cheers Chris

Yeah it all got here safely, and the quality is amazing, well its obviously a repro, but the surface is ultra smooth, I think in the whole thing I found two tiny chips which I filled and faired, its otherwise great. My car is the second in line for the body man now, hes finshed the 350Z he has and now has some old triumph then its my turn . Good luck with it all Chris

Yup that was me, and I am gradually gathering all the bits I need to make the project a reality, give me a while and it will get there. http://www.zworx.com.au/ its on there site under fibreglass panels, the bottom section just looks wrong in my opinion.

Well try for 250 then, the worst thing that can happen is you get laughed at . Watch out however if its one from the Z worx mould, the lower tray looks bloody terrible when mounted, its soo wrong its not funny. I have seen your glass work (I have a rear spoiler I beleive you made here) and I dont think you would have any problems patching it all up. Cheers Chris

Depending on the condition, and attention to detail of the undertray, I would say the anywhere between 250-500 would be reasonable? I think 250 may be a bit lowish, unless fairly rough. A replica one out of japan is around the 1k mark with the strong Aussie dollar, so half price would seem fair for ok nick, and less as the condition goes down. Let us know how it goes, and post some pics. Cheers Chris

After postage I think I got about 100US (very rough idea) for them, which was on the cheapish side I think given that they had been replaced two years ago after a rear end collision apparently, but seeing as I gave my last set away, its a step in theright direction, and I'd rather see them go on a car and be used than sit in my shed and get gradually destroyed.

Halz, Sorry about that, I emptied my PM box .

Halz, if you can find a local person with a parts book, in the back under miscallaneous, it has small offcuts of each type of material, and where they should be positioned on the seat. If you cant find one locally let me know and I may be able to assist you with a high detail scan or a loan or two. They are great because they have texture as well, and shouldnts have faded. Cheers Chris

Every Z I have pulled apart (only three so far, but I am trying for more) I have removed the entire back and as a single unit. I undo the mounts, support the diff and then lower the whole lot struts, halfshafts and driveshafts. I find it much much easier to disassemble when its on the ground and I am the right way up. So as long as you can get enough room to slide the diff back a few inches it shouldnt be a problem. The tightness may be that the diff is dropping down too far and causing it to bind. If all else fails use a bigger hammer. Just out of curiosity what is happening to Cuongs old car? Sounds like some serious surgery going on there . All the best Chris

Yeah its just them getting revenge for Steve Urwin "Australian for Stupid".

Hello, Sent you and email, I am after a few little bits and pieces. Cheers Chris