Z Kid

Did you run a check for bubbles in the radiator/milky oil??

A red indicator is not obvious? Surely it would be like waving a red flag to a bull? And once they have you on the side of the road, well they tend to get very picky, also if you have pissed off the boys in blue, it gives them a starting point to pull you over.

Gav, Are US Spec rear lights legal in Australia??

I have seen it done a few ways: Buy a brass plumbing fitting, and fit it into the chrome plate, then just put your hose onto this (tightarse version on one of my cars was a plastic plumbing elbow and some blutac) The little filter, which would probably be the cheapest and easiest. And finally a length of garden hose cable tied to under the car body up in the transmission tunnel (out of sight out of mind) So is it almost going with the new carbs??

You mean to say there was a point Alfa? I wouldnt say no no to that car, and I bet it would be great for picking up well err Kermit the Frog at least

Hey george, you need to rock up to the track in the 240, to fit in the hoon image thing, and boy do I have a deal for you, a 240/260Z towing setup going cheap, bolts on no mods . Karting looks like serious fun, but at 6'7 I would need to be lucky to find any form of motorsport that will fit me in . It seems to me though, that 90 percent of people who take up carting give up within the first season or so (I only ever got the minutest way through building my off road kart), your mate doesnt have an old cart you can borrow/use/setup for your first season before you have to buy a new one? Hope your reflexes are damn quick too.

Drunken master, a rotisserie is a great idea in theory, but I just wrenched my back badly trying to get it up that high, so I guess its not worth the effort unless like me you have to do welding and dont like the idea of molten metal landing in your crutch. I am beginning to wish I had built just a push over system, mount it to your bumper points and just push the car on its side

Just out of pure curiosity, what prices do they run to, and what gauge steel are they compared to the originals?

It didnt have a compliance plate fitted (to my knowledge), but the rego states it was a 1977 260Z Engine L26159473 It was black, but originally a kind of weird purply/browny metallicy colour (if that makes sense) 5 speed manual, black interior OK Here is another one from the back yard GRS30-015458 (holy $^!#, they were exactly 100 apart, which may make the above rego papers wrong) Complianced 12/76 Automatic, Light metalic blue (305) Cream/off white interior Originally L26 160875 Now L26 161122 (if this is anyone out theres original numbered block, it is yours for the taking) Current status, not roadworth, severe rust issues, in bits (but there is a person who thinks its worth saving, so I will let you know if it gets scrapped or saved) Cheers Chris PS Still need to get the numbers off the guy with 8 or9 Z's near me

GRS30- 015358 260Z 2+2, NOW DECEASED ID plate here, had original motor etc

I hope you now put all that money towards a good project, like getting your beast on the road? How close is it to being done?

I was just looking at the carport and fence, and thinking jeez that looks familiar, and I can remember he had a white 240. When I was browsing, he had three Z cars, he had the 260, the green and very rusty 240 shell (he paid 600 for inspite of the yarn he tells) and a white one with a sunroof. Not being derogatory, but if you didnt get the paperwork with the Z, it may pay to go and check exactly what the defect was for (I think it was defected when he got it and originally came from the adealide hills) Good Luck Chris

It is very ugly, and whats worse is it looks great, and you walk away to let it cool down, come back 5minutes later, and your panel has developed a wave down the length of the weld. Its interesting to try welding two flat bits of sheet metal together in a long seam, and just look what happens, even better would be a couple of old car panels you have lying round, accident damaged or whatever, just take the grinder, cut them in many pieces and weld it back together. (dont do what I did and do it on a whole good car panel, and have to cut it out and try again)

So this is a car you bought from Vicotor? He doesnt still have the cheap green shell with no defects etc kicking around?

Where its external, you have to weld the whole length of the join, then grind flush, but where the original panel spot welds etc on, you just drill holes and plug weld using the mig. Make sure you only weld an inch or so at a time, otherwise the panel heats up, and on cooling changes shape drastically.

I think anything said in the article should be taken with a pinch of salt, seemed to have a few errors to me, or maybe I just misinterpreted the text. Oh well for four bucks I guess I can use it to start a fire next time it gets cold. I am still waiting for Alans Z car book, so I have a truthful reference to base it all on.

I am in SA, I have asked around (after I saw your ozdat ad), and couldn't find any of the local guys willing to do it, mainly due to the legal implications if they get caught, they are not going to give you plates traceable to them, you also need the firewall number as well. Is your Z really that bad, it looks cosmetically OK. If you do decide to give up, let me know, I could sure use some of the bits off your Z on mine, and I am local too, so when it all gets too much, give me a yell and I will drag it away

On the Early Z's, it just had vinyl covering, the 2+2's and or later Z's had hard plastic trim.

Farting about and shitting itself under load sounds like it could be the condenser, or the dizzy cap may have corroded a bit on the contacts. My money would be on the condenser.

Silicone brake fluid is good, but if used in a system which has had conventional fluid in it, it can lead to seizing of brake components etc. Also when left for a long time, guys around the car club here seem to have problems with it developing leaks.