jr260z

Bonzi, I had the similar experience with Mr. Matsuo when he looked at my 260, but I was in awe that he was there, and didn't have the presence of mind to asked him about the electrical retractable sunroof. He was concerned about the headroom though. (FYI, there's a 1978 280Z on E-bay with one) Carl, As soon as I can I'll send you the pics of the LED headlights at night that you asked about. It was a great pleasure to meet so many Z enthusiasts who's post I've read over the years, ZCON10 will be hard to beat, but I'll see you all in Savannah.

FYI. I went with the 3-2-1 coated header from MSA, also installed their 2.5" exhaust system. I coated the tailpipes and muffler with hi-temp paint when installing, and it's holding up well. The sound at idle is like a small block chevy with a cam in it, some people who hear it don't believe it' a stock L-26. At revs, it's a nice throaty howl up to 6500 rpm's. I installed it myself with no problems, and would suggest as in a previous post that you replace all the studs and nuts when you do the swap. Having Summit Racing just down the street was a big plus too, all of the pipe joints were sealed with stainless band clamps, and hangers used stainless clamps as well. I can't say enough about the MSA system, it fit well and was no problem to install, the engine revs quicker and seems to be producing a lot more power now that it can breath.

An alternative is to purchase Trucklite's New 7" LED headlights. I just put a pair in my 260, they put out pure white light, are DOT approved, pull 2.5 amps on low beam, 4.5 amps on high. they are plug in, and do not require a harness modification. The $250.00 each price tag may be prohibitive, but they sure make a difference in vison at night, and set the car out from the rest. These lights in their 24 volt form, were developed for the military, and are on the governments "Munutions List", sale outside of the USA is prohibited. I love mine.

1974 260 (early) Last summer I did the rear strut cartridges, rear stabilizer bushings, front brake hoses, 280 radiator & shroud assm. For the New Year, I've torn off the front end, just to fix 2 small rust spots at the hood hinges. Now it's progressed to removing the engine to paint the compartment, new strut cartridges, sealing all seams & rustproofing the rest of the body, strut & stabilizer bushings, new exhaust header, shifter bushings, electric cooling fan, oh hell, this is never gonna end.

To sum it up---NO. There is a reason for the cheap prices, cheaply repaired or cheaply made parts. For a back yard mechanic, who has a lot of time to keep swapping parts until he gets one that works, it may be ok. In my shop absolutely no Autozone, NAPA, or Advanced parts are used. I don't have the time to do it over, much less have an irrate customer wanting me to eat the labor.

Does this help?

In the oil. Seriously, you would need to drop the oil pan, drill a hole below the fluid level, weld a fitting into the pan that the sensor retainer could thread into. Seal well with thread tape.

If the "square" drive end is long enough, cut it off to allow the end to go into the speedo head, and the nut to tighten without bind.

Have you seen Trucklite's new LED bulbs? Low voltage draw, lexan bulb, 10,000 hour life guarantee. Bright clear light, Best price I've found is $260.00 each, but you do not need any special wiring or switching. The pic is the military version 24 volt, around $450.00 each.

Mike, It's a great find no matter what, I just noticed your in Britain, so of course the steering wheel is on the right side. We're not used to seeing that too much here in the States. Good luck with your project, and keep the board informed of your progress.

Are my eyes playing tricks on me, or is that Z an RHD Fairlady?

Spridal, Is this what you saw?