Hardwyre

Any success with locating a supplier of just the rubber? I have rain pouring down my passenger size window into the door. Replacing the rubber is a simple process of removing the staples, the steel strip, then the rubber. Then it would be simple enough to just drill, using the staple holes as a guide, out some holes large enough for small rivets. I've rebuilt the hold stainless strip using a window squeegee from a Volvo 740, but it's a pretty "meh" fit and it was sort of a pain in the arse to get it set up as the Volvo's rubber fits in a groove while the Z's is obviously stapled; so there's some finessing that needs to be done.. right now it is just a hold over until I get actual rubber.

Here ya go. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

So the alternator mod has been running awesome for a while now with one exception. When idling, or even occasionally while cruising down the freeway, the alternator will stop charging. It's usually brief, and a change in RPM will get things working again. Anyone have any idea? The only wire I have directly to the battery is the charge wire; think running a direct S wire might help?

Another thing to look at that I didn't see mentioned here is your Throttle Position Sensor on the side of the throttle body. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/86041-tps-throttle-position-sensor-adjustment-preguide-76-280z If your TPS isn't adjusted properly, you'll get fuel enrichment when you're not supposed to. Mine thought it was WOT just off idle. Fixing it gave me 2 mpg back, but I was already running 17. You have more issues then just a ganged TPS. Unless maybe it's contacting the idle and WOT contacts at the same time... that couldn't be a good thing.

I'm running a cam in my '76. I need to get my air/fuel wideband in, but with the cold start connected, if I don't get it running on the first fire up, it floods. I've run it for months without the cold start and have never had that flood-like problem. Most likely its probably never been replaced even though your injectors were.

Bad vacuum advance = bad mileage. Bad vacuum hose = bad performance. It sounds like you found the issue, so props to you. Remember, any air making its way into the engine past the AFM messes up fuel metering. In the case of carbed rigs, same thing.

I had a Suburban with a starter that would refuse to stop unless I hit it with a stick.. fond memories. When you have the starter out, it's a good idea to clean the ends of the heavy cables. You can even try putting some grease on them to keep moisture from corroding them. Thinking back to the old Sub, I swapped the start twice because it wouldn't turn over... looked at the cable after a weekend long endeavor and found that the corrosion was resulting in only a couple of the wires carrying current.

I JUST did the alternator conversion on Thursday and after having the car sit from Saturday to this morning, I came out to find it completely dead. The Z community here and on HybridZ is absolutely amazing as you all came together and got me this information. I had my sister repeatedly touch then remove the battery terminal until I could find the offending relay. For the sake of being awesome I took a picture of the damn thing! I can live without the various things it's supposed to do for a couple days. I'll figure out where it wires into come Friday or something.

Sent you a PM Zs. I'm curious what everyone thinks of the Ebay H4's like these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-82-DATSUN-280Z-260Z-EURO-XENON-HEADLIGHT-CONVERSION_W0QQitemZ110420837947QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item19b598463b&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245 I also saw ones with halos around them; but I'm not sure if they're look dumb or not.

Hey Z crowd. I just pick up a beautiful dust blue '76 Z last week and already have a dozen parts coming to clean her up (new carpet, power window kit, etc). I have an MSD 6AL controller and Blaster 2 coil from a Chevy 383 stroker that I'm no longer using and figured, why not, throw it in the Z. My research has brought me to understand that I need a tach adapter to make the 5v square wave from the MSD work with the 12v sine(?) wave needed for the tach and fuel injection of the Z. The adapter MSD forums suggested was the 8910. They have about $50 for it. Thing is, if I could get a schematic for the adapter, or a similar circuit, I could simply build my own. I've noticed there are some pretty electronic-savvy people on here, so I joined. So I guess here is the short question: How do I convert the MSD 5v square wave to a 1976 Z's 12v sine wave? Also, do I even have the correct values? Thanks everyone.