H4LIGHTS

I'm putting in an order with the supplier today. If anyone else wants these let me know. I'll try to stock them as long as they have inventory to supply, and thanks to the slow economy they still have them.

Were all rotating and reciprocating parts balanced? Who did the balancing, what did they balance and what were the before and after results. Just a few grams difference between rods/pistons and an out of balance flywheel/clutch/pressure plate can make vibrations. Or, it just may be a weak misfire due to a too large air gap at the spark plugs for the revs. If you think it's accessories hanging on the engine disconnect and remove them and see if the 'vibrations' move or disappear. There are harmonic devices that professional NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) folks use to determine what is causing the issue. So many possibilities.

I've been told by others in the lighting business that these Truck-Lite LED's are popular with the logging trucks in the Pacific Northwest of the US. The drivers like them because they do not fail completely if a few LED's get damages or just stop lighting. They leave them on all the time while driving, day or night. I'm sure that can be quite an advantage on dimly lit winding mountain roads. It would be great to see an aerial view of the coverage pattern to compare it to other offerings especially in an S30 and an S130. FWIW: I've attached an older beam pattern chart that is informative IMO. (Low/Left Hand Drive and High beam shown are for an H4 E marked application)

My memory may have faded but I believe the Marchals used H1's for the high (drive) beam but an H3 bulb for the low (dipped beam). Either way, they were a vast improvement over sealed beams. Very popular with the Pantera owners as well. (In case you are searching out NOS sources)

Wow! Concave Cibie. Really old and a flash to the past. If you are going for a specific "look" then those are different. But as others have said they just don't work very well. If it uses a standard P45 based bulb as most European housings did then there is a halogen based P45 bulb available. Some French housings made during that era did use a different type of bulb (base design as well as color) unique to Frances domestic requirements. Have fun in your quest, I'm sure there are NOS out there somewhere.

FYI: Here's a beam chart that may be helpful for future reference: The low (dipped) is for an Emarked LHD headlight. If RHD just reverse the dipped beam pattern.

Thanks to all that have taken advantage of this offer. FYI: I am down to only two pairs left in inventory.

When you do get to the point of tackling the electrical another helpful hint is to use dielectric grease on all contacts and sockets. Good anti-corrosion properties.

Another helpful hint is to use dielectric grease on all contacts and sockets. Good anti-corrosion properties.

Eric & Steve: Your lights were delivered to FedEx for shipment today. I hope you like your improved night time visibility.

While they are still available from my supplier I purchase some more. So...I now have a few pairs in stock. If interested let me know.

"1971 Datsun 240Z – Alvin Yang was either better informed or more optimistic than us when he suggested an early 1970’s 240Z for under $10K—we only found serious “projects” in terms of original cars at that price point. This 1971 240 of mixed origin isn’t a bad thought though. The car has undergone an engine swap (there’s an L28-something, from either a 280Z or 280ZX most likely, under the hood), but appears to be nicely finished off. Not a concours winner then, but probably a really nice driver considering the current $8500 price tag." http://www.windingroad.com/articles/lists/facebook-list-top-10-cars-wed-drop-10k-on/?src=Nextscreen#2

By American production numbers the Z's were produced in minuscule numbers. I worked for the company referenced above and one recall of one model over a production of a few weeks could eclipse Nissan's whole Z production for a year. It's the "J" word here. But in Japan, cars like certain Isuzu's are cult classics along with the Z, Toyota XX, etc. What you have done to your Healey would be considered sacrilege by many purist aficionados in Britain. I'm thinking, more reliable and maybe fewer leaks. Hopefully all the Lucas electrics have been modified as well. I remember being ousted from a technical training class in the UK by a nice Scotsman when I stated that even British TV's leak oil.

How do you know that the fuses are "fine" ? Turn signal switch contacts can get dirty but usually exhibit one side not functioning. But cleaning the contacts wouldn't hurt if done correctly. Time to grab the FSM / wiring diagram and a DVOM and do some tracing of power.

The foreign press gives the Z more credit than many in North America. You want rare? 1974 260Z or RLS30. One year of production and two different 'styles'. Unique VIN, 280's shared the same prefix as 240's, HLS30. So many have been butchered or crushed because of their low esteem in the used car market. They will be rare. But I'm sure Yugo's are rare as well.

Maybe naive is better. Nissan was one of the few car companies that continued to provision for their cars well beyond the legal requirements, a real money loser overall for them but a great reputation booster with the enthusiast. They had some folks in the company that really cared about Datsun. Heck, they even got into the restoration program and had some old previously unavailable parts produced again. Then they almost went bankrupt and Renault came to the rescue with a more mainstream business model. ROI now rules the day at Nissan USA. Do not expect things to get better any time soon for older Z car owners. Even the small remanufacturers and boutique parts and accessory shops have been disappearing over the past couple of years. If many your posts gravitate around the high costs of whatever, IMHO it may be better to find a vehicle that will be more cost effective, in your estimation. Z's are cheap to buy and that may be a bad thing. Sooner or later the sugar coating disappears and the bitter pill remains. Interestingly I've heard the same complaints about the independent businesses of RacingBeat (Mazda) and ToySport (Toyota), yet when you want quality these are the go to guys in many respects.

Can you say Japanese? Very few Asian cars have much cache with the collector car masses in North America. Their loss.

Understand that MSA only deals in parts for Z's and has a business and staff the size of many car dealerships. They also carry items not available elsewhere through their contacts, suppliers and manufacturers. Their folks are knowledgeable where other sources are not. Some sell all kinds of parts for all kinds of vehicles and their order staff is just that, take orders but know nothing about the parts they sell. Cheap is not always the best way to go and calling someone a rip off is very immature without some form verifiable documentation. You are gonna get a reputation and no one will help you that really has the correct answers. When places like MSA decide to do some other kind business, that's when you are really gonna learn what expen$ive is. Ask VW bug owners about prices of parts "back in the day". Many Z's are inexpensive to buy and thus cause the owners to believe that everything on the car should be available for cheap. Unfortunately, not a correct belief.

Fuses are notorious for developing cracks and sagging after years of use. The recommendation is to change the fuses every couple of years because of this condition. My opinion: Replace both headlight fuses on an S30 first and see if the problem is corrected. If not, a common issue is feedback on a blown headlight through the ground side causing one headlight to be dim. Then after that it's connections, grounds, bad combo switch, bad fuse box. Trace and repair. DVOM and testlight, (maybe a short detector) are your friends along with the wiring diagram.

You really need to take your car to someone that has more technical expertise before throwing money without knowing what's wrong. A factory service manual along with some diagnostic equipment really are good to have if you plan on keeping this car. A misfire or low compression on a cylinder or three can cause elevated HC & CO. And that's just one of many possible causes. Cat may be bad and I guess you will find out after spending $180. BTW: Cali has some new cat converter replacement rules. I'm sure the referees will tell you if the cat installed was correct or not. Your journey continues.

So there are two events back to back. Should be an exciting few days.

Timing is supposed to be checked by the smog tech during the test. (2 degree variance from spec. allowed last time I checked) Does your car have a catalytic converter? You do not list the mileage or how it is running. Modifications? Did you change the oil? If it's badly fuel diluted it can cause higher HC/CO. Now that you are listed as a gross polluter I believe your car must now be re-checked at a state referee station and if it passes, checked annually. I'm betting a dead cat maybe caused by a misfire, leaky injectors, low compression (tired engine), or just old and used up. Keep us informed on your journey.

Are you writing about this event? http://www.bottombustermotortour.com The Bottom Buster Motor Tour is for cars that are 30 years or older (1981 and older). It will be a 3-day tour of central California. Starting from the Rose Bowl in Pasadena (Seco St & Arroyo Blvd), spend both nights at Black Oak in Paso Robles, then drive back to Pasadena on day three. The dates are April 11th, 12th, & 13th, 2011 (Monday, Tuesday Wednesday). Make your motel reservations early. Course Instructions will be handed out Monday morning at 7am at the Rose Bowl with departure at 7:30 AM. A buffet dinner is planned for Tuesday night at F.McLintocks Saloon & Dinning in Paso Robles. The Tour schedule is: Sunday Evening For those making a long drive; stay at the Hampton Inn, Arcadia, 626 574-5600 or the Comfort Inn 626 405-0811. Dinner/ At 6pm: Robins Restaurant, 395 N. Rosemead, Pasadena. Monday Sign up for the Motor Tour at the Rose Bowl 7am in Pasadena. 7:30am enjoy your first day of touring the back roads of California. Check in at Black Oak Motel in Paso Robles. (Remember to make your reservations early (805) 238-4740). Monday night dinner is on your own. Tuesday Start Motor tour by 8am. End the day at Black Oak Motel in Paso Robles, Happy Hour 6pm and dinner at 7pm at F.McLintocks (Order off the menue). Wednesday Start Motor Tour by 8am and follow the route back to Pasadena (Or home). This will be a fun event You will need your drivers license, car registration, and proof of insurance to enter Ft. Hunter Liggett. It is a Motor Tour and not a race or road rally. Every one is expected to drive safely and sanely. The route is straight forward. All mileage is estimated. If instructions say turn right when you should turn left is an honest mistake and not an attempt to get you lost. Bring maps, GPS, and use common sense. Carry a cell phone. If you break down, you are on your own. Other participants may stop to help because they are good people, but you are ultimately responsible for your own vehicle. Best Western BLACK OAK MOTOR LODGE 1135 Twenty-Fourth Street Paso Robles, Ca. 93446-1309 805-238-4740 F. McLintock's Saloon 1234 Park Street Paso Robles, Ca.93446 (805) 238-2233 Organized by a 5 time participant in the No Frills Iron Bottom Motoring Tour (NFIBMT)

If the engine is otherwise stock the headers will make no appreciable difference. They will make more noise, thin tube wall vs thick cast manifold. They do have a tendency to leak more often than a cast manifold. If the engine is highly modified then disregard my comments.

So why do you want to replace your stock manifold? Why Pacesetter headers over the others available?