J Shara

I finally got the windshield installed, and the engine running nicely. Today was the first day my Z has been used like a car in a long time. But still so many things to finish. The before and after pics.

no its a 4 speed manual. The wire that i replaced, that runsfrom the points to the negative side of the distributor, was replaced with the old crusty 40 year old wire from my parts car so i looked in the box of my new coil and there was a long black wire with loop connectors crimped to both ends. so i took the old crusty wire off and put the new wire in and readjusted the gap and lo and be hold she fired right up and ran just as sweet as can be. Im going to post a video of her running.

Well i thought I found the solution to my ignition troubles when i discovered that I had routed the points wire incorrectly under the distributor cap.As a result, the wire got chewed up by the actuation of the points. I have since then rectified this by replacing the damaged wire with one I snagged from my parts car and routed it right. The other day i pushed the z out of the garage and fiddled with the carbs and hooked up a timing light and she fired up, ran until up to operating tempereture with good oil pressure and all of a sudden it did the same thing just died as if some one switched the key off.

I just recently installed my freshly rebuilt l24 back into my z and have had a few kinks to work out to get it running. It cranks over and it did run for the first couple times i tried to start it after i unclogged the carb fuel distribution lines. Though now i hooked up the cooling system and have been trying to tune the engine, it will not stay running. Im fairly certain it is getting intermittent spark because like i said it will crank over, run for a few seconds and then shut off as if some one switched the key off. Also if you try to crank it sometimes it will not start. So i took the high tension wire off and put it near the engine and no spark. but then if i fiddle with the connections the engine will turn over and then die. the car has a crane cams fireball coil, taylor hi-pro 8mm spark plug wires(which suck btw) stock new condenser, stock new points, stock new cap and rotor. and i had adjusted the point gap and the spark plug gap as well. I really cant think what could be causing this to happen. any thoughts would be appreciated.

Alright I brought the fuel piping to work and blew it out with compressed air and used brake cleaner and penetrating oil and there is sufficient flow coming from the lines. Time to hook em up and see if she runs.

Y ea i tried using an old guitar string but it wasnt sturdy eough and i think that a clothes hanger wouldnt make the bends im thinking maybe some mechanics wire

cbuczesk i remember seeing both of your cars a few years back at the carlisle show. I bought a nice set of wheel chocks from the parts tent next to where your 260 was parked. Ihave pics of them in my gallery.

Allright so I found the root of the problem. I went to check the carb inlet screens and found out that they were both bone dry and relatively clean. so the fuel wasnt getting from the pump which was functioning properly to the bowls becase the steel distribution line on the side of the head is clogged shut. Whats the best method for unclogging the line? compressed air

ok thanks. does hybrid z have the 72 fsm? cause thats where i got the 73 fsm from. Ill probably un hook the outlet fuel line from the mech. pump first and see if there is good flow and go from there. i prob should have rebuilt the carbs its just i really dont know much about them and the S.U type kind of intimidates me . my father and i por 15 the tank and replaced the vapor lines and rubber lines from the tank already.

no my 73 has no emmisions equipment on it and it has the early style round top SU's installed before i bought it. It also had no electric fuel pump although my 73 parts car did have the electric fuel pump, and round top su's I beleive its an E88 head and intake. Also the air cleaner is not installed nor the flow guide valve or the brake booster, or the pcv, or the evap. i new the car would not run 100% without these hooked up, i just wanted to see if it would run. but before i disassembled the car it had this problem. It did have some crummy old looking vaccum lines on it tho. Thanks to all for the advise i will try some of your methods. To check the fuel filters in the carbs and check the floats, do i have to disassemble the carbs?