Pat Carr

Will do. I'll be leading one of the mountain drives tomorrow, then heading to autocross and karting to spectate.

Thanks, Steve.

Here are a few photos from today's activities. The brief rain interrupted the Chili Party. Tomorrow is the judged car show.

Followed one of the routes in the North Georgia mountains for the drives Georgia Z Club will be leading for ZCON next month. Needed to get familiar with it so I can lead one of the drives. These drives will sure to be another highlight of this years convention.

I vote with the group that says the electric pump ran when the engine ran. Before I removed the flat top carbs and the electric fuel pump, I could hear the pump running whenever I was stopped with the engine idling.

Damn, who knew?. Now I have to remove the cowl and see if I put that pan head screw in the right place.?

Congratulations to Chet. Can't wait to get to the track tomorrow. Car is cleaned up and ready to go.

Never heard of heavy metal New Zealand band "The Datsuns" until I heard them on satellite radio today. Nothing special, other than the name.

I had some holes in the passenger floor pan and end of the frame rail. Every collision shop I talked to didn’t want to mess with it. They can make more money fixing accidents covered by insurance. I talked with several members of the Georgia Z Club and they referred me to a guy who does welding on cars on weekends. I fabricated a patch panel and he welded it on. Welding cost me $80. Recommend you talk with your local Z club and see if they know somebody that can weld it for you.

I undertook this fuse box upgrade this weekend. I had ordered the fuse holders back when @Phil Z first posted this. Just now was motivated to do it. My fuse box had the typical melting of the parking light fuse. I installed an inline fuse pre-1980, and installed LEDs a few years ago to lower the current draw. My first step was to take photos of the existing wiring and also make a key to where each wire goes. Next I removed the fuse clips leaving a bare box, then repaired the hole from the melted fuse with JB Weld. Semi-ground down the JB Weld and coated it with black satin paint. Like Phil I used a dremel to cut slots for the fuse holders. I cut the first one too wide, so after that cut them slightly smaller than needed and filed them to the right width. I had some 6/32-inch machine screws in my stash, some 3/8" long and some 1/2" long, and they were the correct diameter. Drilled out the holes as needed and installed the fuse holders and screws. Nissan didn't leave any spare wire length, so I pried open the clamp holding the insulated part of the wire and cut off the old fuse holders to give me all the length I could get. To connect the source side of the fuse block where two wires were common, I tore apart an old plug and soldered those across the terminals. At the three common connectors the stock box has a screw terminal. To duplicate that I smashed an old duplex outlet and soldered the parts across the three terminals. Ugly but effective. I soldered the wires on, checked for continuity, and re-installed it in the car. So far everything works like it did before. As Phil said, the fuse box cover still fits. Thanks to Phil for coming up with this upgrade.

Lefty, I strongly suggest you take Steve up on his offer. He's an electronics guru and owns a 260. Hope to see you driving around Lilburn soon. I'd suggest Los Hermanos at Indian Trail and Hwy 29.

That was on ebay a week or so ago. Went for $10-something.

Link to Kia weatherstrip thread:

My 73 had a much larger and heavier exhaust manifold than the earlier models. Thus more heat sitting under the carbs. I changed to the earlier one when I swapped out to round tops. Thanks to Chet Wittel for the idea. The attached photo gives you an idea of the size difference.

On my 73 it is mounted on the passenger side of the console.

The wiper linkage on my 73 240Z has separated several times. I removed the cowl to access the linkage today to try and fix it. The linkage is covered by a rubber boot. The boot construction is such that it has to be in place before assembling the linkage. Maybe you could do that with new rubber, but not with 44 year old rubber. I ended up assembling without out it, cutting the boot, installing it, and sewing it back together. The assembly order is shown here: The "C" clip shown adjacent to the boot had come off and had expanded. I could bend it easily with pliers. The first two times I reassembled it and squeezed the "C" clip on the shaft and then put everything back in the car it came apart again. The third time I was extra careful to re-shape the clip so it hugged the shaft after squeezing it. So far it is holding. I also was careful not to twist the assembly when installing it. I found it worked best for me to connect the passenger side wiper with one screw loosely while leaving the drivers side free to move around. After connecting the linkage to the wiper motor I could then get the driver's side attached and bolt everything down. Arrow points to "C"clip installed. Boot installed and sewn back together. Remember to check the direction of wiper travel before installing the wiper blades. A trick I read on another post was to putt a piece of tape on the shaft and observe the direction and where it parks. If it is wrong you need to remove the linkage from the motor and rotate it 180 degrees. If this comes apart again I will look for a replacement "C" clip.

The light is really playing tricks with your eyes in those photos. In the photo of the rear it looks close to my almost 44 year old 113 green. @SteveJ I agree it needs a repaint. Color is the big question. Still, AC needs to come first.

Eerie coincidence? We went to a bar Saturday night to see a friend's band. At one point the guitarist said for some unknown reason he felt like playing some David Bowie. He then did a great version of Ziggy Stardust. R.I.P. David Bowie. Your music lives on.

I wonder if one of those 113 greens is mine.

Forgot to mention I changed the capacitor as well.

Last Sunday the car died leaving Caffeine & Octane. Helpful spectators pushed me back in the lot and I spent an hour checking it out before calling for a tow home. At home I sprayed starter fluid in the air filter housing to rule out fuel as the culprit. Turn the key, click-click-click. Now the starter won't crank the engine. Hooked up a remote starter and got the same result. Tried the old screwdriver across the solenoid terminals and it cranked, so figured it must be the solenoid. Ordered one from RockAuto and installed it yesterday. With the starter working I repeated the starter fluid in the air cleaner and it didn't start. Checked for spark and found none. Searched the forums and figured it was either the points or the coil. This morning I went in search of the points. A nearby store's website said they had them Not so. Found another store (different brand) 8 miles away that had the points and coil according to their website. Not to be fooled twice I called first and they actually had them. Got home and installed both and it started right up. Spent another hour trying to get the point gap right. (Someone should come up with an alternative to points .) Dwell is a little low, but it runs. Set the timing and took it for a drive. A beautiful day to have a running Z. Thanks to the help from the forums I got to enjoy it.

Welcome to the forum. You're 510 is stunning!

197.9 krona in Reykjavik, Iceland yesterday. If I did my math correctly, that is $1.46 per liter or $5.54 per gallon, using current exchange rates. Interestingly, diesel was only 2 krona more per liter.

[Now my question, I had to loosen the fan shroud to get a 27mm socket on the crank nut. What a pain!!! In the end it worked for setting the points, but there must be a better way. How do you guys spin the engine when you set the points gap?] To get the distributor on the knuckle, I put it in second gear, release the brake, and just nudge the car back and forth as needed to get it in position. Don't do this on a hill!:classic:

I was driving the Parade lap at The Mitty today when out of nowhere an open wheeled racer passes me on the right and gets in the parade line. I have no idea where he came from or why he was out there with the amateurs. He stayed there until the end, heading for the pits while we went to the infield. Here's a link to a video: Parade Surprise - YouTube Great day at Road Atlanta. SteveJ - thanks for the photos.