OniZ

i have a 71 i checked the manuals that they did have and none of them had any pics or diagrams of the rear fuel lines. But I think the problem may be a faulty gas cap going to give it a shot and see what happens.

john thanks for the idea. However I just checked it out and they're still searching for a manual for the year I have. There is a thread with a write up on refurbishing the fuel tank and removing the evaporator tank which I used to plumb mine the only diff from mine and the one the guy was writing about was mine has a holley elect. fuel pump.

ok kinda figured out the problem but not too sure on how to solve it at the moment. it seems that my fuel tank is building to much pressure when it sits out in the sun on hot days which in turn is causing the fuel line under the car to leak out. has anyone else run across this problem if so how did you take care of it.

This isn't really a emergency however the sooner a response the better. So moving along I have a decently built L26 motor with triple carbs and a holley fuel pump feeding it. One of the factory lines the one running from the front of the tank just next to the sending unit to the center fuel line leading to the motor. the hard line diameter is about 3/8", would it be a bad idea to run a 3/8" line with this setup or should I run something big in diameter, I don't want to starve the motor of any fuel that it will need. The line on the car now is bigger than 3/8". Thanks for any suggestions and help.

had it rebuilt and they build it from scratch price is about $40 and turn around is only a couple of days.

yeah i was going to take the cable in and have it rebuilt if it's still at that point as for the gauge i'm pretty sure it's going to have to be replaced it would be nice if I could fix it though.

Now I would have searched to see if anyone else had this issue but I would feel bad for them. I was driving to cars and coffee this morning when about half way there my speedometer started to freak out jumping from 80 to 160. So I tried slowing down to see if that did anything but nothing, after a bit it went back to my current speed, and stayed. After another few minutes it shot back up and promptly went full circle to 0 mph then back to 160. The last thing it did was and i'm not sure because I couldn't really believe it. It seemed to spin completely around until the needle fell off. Does this sound like it was the speedo or made the cable got messed up and caused this. Or something else.

Just giving my 2 cents but these mirrors are better than the USDM placement. My eyes naturally trance to the fender I had to use a little more effort to look at the door mounted ones. These also give a larger viewing range making lane changes easier. But like I said just my two cents.

no not yet was on my lunch so i did have a lot of time but I will.

I know I should use the search function but I'm pressed for time at the moment so I can't. I plan on putting 16's on my Z however I'm unsure of the best offsets to run I have and idea for the front I know a fellow z owner with 16s on his car but the rear I'm not sure. I'm going to run a 16x10 (yea I know) but don't know about an offset. the offset I've seen for a 16x9 is -19 so I'd figure its somewhere in that range. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Went to napa today and got the right part for about 31 bucks so not to bad. Installed it and the car starts like a champ. Thanks to all of the other Z guys for your support and knowledge, I appreciate it.

I went to the junkyard today to pick up a ignition switch but no luck so I installed the old one again and tested it just for the hell of it...the car turned over but I forgot to turn my pump on and the car ran out of fuel. So I went to start it again and got the same thing.

Ok I ran the wire to the starter from the battery...still nothing so I bought a new starter and got nothing so I'm going to pick up a new ignition switch. All the connections your talking about I've already checked and all of them are fine. Sleepyzzz that sounds like a bad day hope everything works out for you.

Ok thanks I'll do that also could grounds play any part in this problem?

Ok I was having issues with the Z since I bought it with the car starting. The PO told me that the key was worn pretty badly so I had to hold it up and turn it to get the car to start (needless to say the process didn't make much difference). So anyway the car won't start now I check the wiring from the ignition, coil, dizzy, starter and battery everything is tight and wires all look fine. When I turn the key I hear the starter click (at least it sounds like it is as I'm in the car and can't be hovering over the engine bay at the same time.) I also hear a relay under the dash click too. Does anyone have any suggestions or know what this is before I take it to my local Z shop.

i'm having the same problem is it possible to use a ign switch out of a different year Z. I have a 71 and have access to a 78 Z.

Dave, this is it the solenoid I bought.

Well I have good news the swap to this alt is a success.....so far. I finished earlier tonight after many trips to Kragen (couldn't get the right belts). Car starts and runs just fine. I didn't have to install the diode...so far I may need to later but as of right now it's not needed. I'm also not sure the car is charging yet either I don't have the tools to check it so I will have to test it tomorrow. If this really works I will be sure to include everything I've done to help anyone that wants to do this conversion. I also wanted to thank everyone that gave me their input about this everything really helped the project.

Own a mazda rx-7 for 5 1/2 years named B.B. aka Black Betty for obvious reasons. And the toyota solara I drive is just the solara. But my Z, I decided on Azalie the character with the name goes from a beautiful girl to a dragon, hope my Z can live up to the name.

Hey i thought I would give all the Datsun guys a heads up on a nice find in chula vista, ca. I was in the area today and one of the cars that they are selling is a red 510 4-door manual. Hope someone jumps on it and saves it.

Ok the first picture shows the alternator after I got it and cleaned it up the arrow points to the lip on the front, that will need to be grinded down to be flush with the rest of the alt. Picture 2: show's the after math and what it will look like you will need to get a spacer to fit around the shaft to prevent the pulley from rubbing against the facing, I will get a picture of this so everyone can see. Picture 3: Is the back of the external regulator after I cut off all the wires to make the harness to connect to the new alternator. Picture 4: Is the new harness using the leftovers from the regulator harness and the Nissan Maxima Alternator plug, I used this one because the wires were thicker than the Quest wires however the units are identical other than that. Picture 5: The stock wires RED=power BLUE=ground WHITE=alternator connector LIGHT BLUE=external regulator Picture 6: The alternator together and you can see the mark where I'm going to grind down some more metal, maybe don't even have to grind down as much as I've marked. Comments about this are appreciated, especially if you notice something I've done is wrong, .

So anyway here's where I am at with the project right now. Alternator is almost done modifying just need to grind down a little more to get everything to line up the way I want. I'm thinking an 1/8 of an inch or less, already removed about a 1/4 with plenty of support area to spare. I haven't started the wiring since I've been sick and busy the last few weeks (was really hoping to have this finished by now). So here are some pictures like I said of a few of the things I've done while doing the upgrade.

Ok by real I mean a coilover that isn't a kit and by kit I mean one that isn't a sleeve around a shock. The unit would be one piece completely self contained, that's why I refer to it as "the real deal". And perhaps it was bad wording on my part to refer to it as "the real deal" The cressida is he's idea and his choice if he has intentions to do a set for those he will, I know the cressida is used mainly for drifting ( as far as I know). True I don't know what the customer wants and neither does my friend that is why I'm here asking people to give some input any is better than none. Right now a starting point is trying to be setup and improvements will go on from there as long as the want for more is.

I have a friend in the performance industry that is interested in build coilovers for a few of the older car that lack a strong backing in the performance area, such as the 240z, Cressida, and 510 just to name a few. While I know that a few companies make a coilover using a kit and stut/shock the coilover I'm refering too would be the real deal from one company. I'm here gauging interest in this product, I don't have a price yet but interest will dictate a general price and availablity of them. The more the better so if your interested list your name, car, year of car, and what you do with the car. This will help give an idea on what cars will be covered and the type of setups that will be available. Quality of the product will be first rate.

so i have to change the ammeter, also dave do you have any pictures of the wiring you did i understand you dont have the L series but it will still help me. do you know where i can find a picture of the diode install i've seen it mentioned but I would like to see an example. thank you again for your feed back, it really helps.