mike's78z

hey which brakes are they? I've been considering this as well. What size rotors?

Checked the car this weekend and it turned on!!! Diagnosis: 3 Red Fusable links, 1 brown. 1 red & brown loose. Battery charge was low before Still sputters alot, timing needs to be checked

so they went back on it eh? I must have read some old news. Anyhow, i think i can get the inline six running so there's no need for a swapout. Just needs a charged battery, some new fusable links and a tune up.

The last year for smog exemption in CA is 1976. Darn California legislators...

Come to think of it, the battery was probably low. I just glanced at the gauge and thought it was still ok. I think it goes up to 16v, so it was probably around 10 or 9 when i tried to start it. I wonder why it keeps draining the battery? When I test drove the car they had to recharge the battery and when I bought it they put a new one in for me. Now that I've had the chance to look over the car, I've noticed a few things here and there that I'm not too happy about. For instance, the paint looks surprisingly good for it being over 30 yrs old. I found overspray on some electrical components which indicates its not the original paint. Same goes for the interior. The $3,000 that the owner said he put into it was probably just to make it good enough to sell. Question: How many years does it take in order for an old car to be smog exempt in the state of California? My stepfather's 75 chevy pickup is exempt, but my uncle's 77 dodge pickup isn't. They told me it was something around 25yrs or so. Right now I have my car registered as non op, but if I were to register it would I have to smog it? I heard there were people who swapped out motors, but were still able to register. If this is possible, I might just be the solution to my problems.

Sadly, I didn't get to take the 280Z to the wedding, but at least I got it stored. Before I stored it, I made some more inspections. 1. I found that there may have been a faulty wire where the fusable links are located. They didn't have any covers, but it was at the location described. I jiggled the wire and I heard the warning sound that goes off whenever the key is in the ignition. The lights on the dashboard turned on as well. 2. I then tried to start the car, but was not successful. The starter cranked but there wasn't any signs of it starting. Then on the third try it sounded like the battery was dying, but the gauge said I still had half a charge. I don't know perhaps the voltage gauge was wrong? When ever i get the chance i'll check it out again. However, since I moved so far away I don' know when i'll get to check it again. Thanks for info guys, it really helps.

How do I test the fuel pressure and where is the cold start injector you spoke of?The air filter looks clean but its all warped. It kinda looks as though it got wet, then it went out of shape and dried that way. Also I checked the oil and its black as well. I'm thinking its had this problem for a while. Lastly I noticed the floor temp. light came on when the dashboard lights were working. Could this have any connection? I forgot to mention that for some reason the dashboard lights aren't turning on now. I noticed this the first time when I changed out the injectors and it wouldn't start then either. I thought it just needed to rebuild fuel pressure. Somehow the lights came on again and the car started. However when I took out the spark plugs to clean them, it turned off again. I know I unplugged the neg. cable from the battery both times, but its connected now. The starter cranks but that's it. I really wanted to have it running well in time for my ceremony.

I bought a 78 280z last week and the owner claimed that the fuel injectors were leaking. So I replaced the injectors and fired up the engine. I noticed a change in power but the engine was still sputtering. Every so often it made a loud popping noise and spit out black stuff from the exhaust. So i thought perhaps it wasn't burning the fuel. I also examined all the spark plugs and found that they were all jet black with soot all over them. After that, the car wouldn't start again. So I gave up and started changing out the headlights.To my surprise the old ones didn't have a bulb. When i tried to turn on the headlights nothing happened. My question is this, based on all of the facts i've presented what could be the cause of the problem? Is it an electrical issue? Do I need to replace the spark plugs? I needed to have this car running by the time i moved this Sunday. So Thanks to anyone who can be helpful.

So how did replacing those injectors go? I just bought a 78z and the owner said it needed new injectors. I replaced the injectors, which was a pain in the @$$ to take out and put back in. I first tried to install them with the rail, but that was hard because the plastic holder and metal piece kept falling off. So I installed them onto the engine first, then i slide the rail into the rubber hoses. There are a number of hoses that can get in your way so don't forget to mark their positions with tape. Also don't forget to unplug the battery! After putting all the hoses together and tightening the bolts the car still doesn't start. Prior to replacing the injectors, the car was sputtering pretty bad. It died when i tried to park it in my backyard and hasn't started ever since. I noticed the floor temp. light came on. Can any1 else help me figure out what else could be the problem?

OF COURSE THE HEADLIGHTS DON'T WORK IF THERE'S NO BULBS! Sorry, i bought the car w/ the impression that the headlights were there. I test drove it during the day so i forgot to check. Stupid me.... The drivers side turning signals both light up, but they stay on solid. Like the other person, my dashboard light stays on solid as well. My knowledge of electronics is limited to logic gates and what not. However I can follow directions if they're detailed. I keep reading about fusible links, what are they and what do they do? Is it some sort of wire that burns when it exceeds the voltage?

I've been having a somewhat similar problem. However the left turn signal on my car stays on solid and doesn't make any clicking noise. The right turn signal works fine. Also the headlamps won't turn on. I'm fairly new to the Z so if you find out what thev problem is let me know. thanks in advance, Mike

Ok, here is the list of problems I'm having. 1. Fuel injectors are flooding cylinders 2. Drivers side door locking mechanism won't work w/ key. (the part that rotates on the locking cylinder doesn't turn enough to unlock the door.) 3. Left turn signal turns on but doesn't flicker like it should. 4. Headlights won't turn on. I bought the car knowing it was going to take some work to restore it, but it might take a while. Thanks to everyone who actually takes the time to post.

SOLD!!!!!!!!!!!!! i will post pics as soon as possible. I need some info. What is the torque on the spark plugs and fuel injectors. Or where could i find a manual?

Question: if a car has been non op for about ten yrs. When the owner went to renew the tags in 2008 would he have had to pay for any penalties or would i get stuck with the bill? I've got 15 days or so to get everything resolved before i leave. As far as being confused, I meant that what i was trying to say came out sounding confusing. Working all day in a small room with a propane torch blowing fumes in your face can do that. Which brings me to another question, does anyone know a place thats hiring for a quality analysis or microbiological technician near Davis CA? I'm going to need money to fix this car up. I have 3+ yrs. experience working in a lab.