korg_geek

How much are you thinking of spending? Costs don't vary much, but it will determine whether you get a rolling chassis or a clean daily driver.

I'm currently selling one of my Datsuns on collector car trader and a few other online/magazine sites and I've run into the following quandery: A man who runs a vintage car dealership offers me the asking price (or MORE than the asking price) for the car, and says that the buyer will be sending me a check directly. Sounds simple enough, right? Only the guy wants to send me a refund bank check that he got from some other transaction, so it'll be about $5,000 MORE than what the car is being sold for, so they want a refund check from my bank account for the balance. This is the part where I told the dealer to go to hell unless he showed up with cash in a briefcase. For those of us selling cars (especially beloved cars) to others, be wary of offers that are too good to be true. I've been reading recently about a number of people who fall for this scam: as it turns out, the cashier's check they send you is an excellent counterfeit, and by the time your bank finds out (6-8 weeks later), you've sent the guy 5 grand of real money, while you've lost it, plus probably your car. Its hard to turn down money, especially when you think you're getting a much better deal than the other guy. Just make sure he's legit - and your check is definitely REAL - before signing anything over.

I have driven across the USA, 800 miles a day, twice in this car in the past year without a single mechanical issue along the way. That's the kind of running condition its in. And it STILL has less than 68k miles on it :classic:

Hi guys, I'm selling off my mostly-finished 240Z because I'm just too broke to go to graduate school right now. This car is a turnkey 1973 240Z, without any of the inherent flaws of the '73 year. It has one year-old (previously unused) 1971 dual hitachi SU carbs, electric and mechanical fuel pumps (both new) and a new aftermarket fuel pressure regulator to control psi from the electric (fuel pressure can be set from 1 to 10 psi, depending on your performance needs). I'm looking for an owner with a knowledge of cars (we all know you need it with a Z), but this is not a fixer-upper, OR a trailer queen. This is my weekend driver, and at certain points a daily driver, and needs no mechanical work aside from oil changes. A complete description of the car is as follows, taken from the classified ad I just placed: LOW MILES, slightly-modified, graphite silver 1973 Datsun 240Z, in excellent condition. I bought this vehicle from its first owner, a Japanese man who put only 2,000 miles a year on it since new. It now has 67k original miles on it. The first thing I did when I bought it in June of last year was pull the valve cover and gaze at how perfectly clean the 30-year old 6-cylinder engine is. Originally 151 horsepower; numbers-matching engine, new dual SU carburetors, fuel pressure regulation system, K&N filters, 50,000 volt coil, Pertronix electronic ignition, NGK spark plugs/wires, 3-core performance radiator, heater removed. American racing wheels, MOMO steering wheel, Yokahama tires with 90% tread, brand-new unused Yokohama spare tire, aftermarket exhaust and tips, custom Datsun shift knob, Alpine CD with 6x9 Blaupunkts and ultralight speaker boxes, new clutch, voltage regulator, battery, terminals, fuel/brake lines, brake master cylinder, the list goes on and on. I have done almost all the work myself, but I have receipts from alignment adjustments and carb adjustments that have been done by professional Z mechanics in the past year. I just bled the brakes and I’m about to bleed the clutch. New primer and awesome polyurethane paintjob. This car has never had gasoline below 91 octane, and has its oil changed every 500 miles, or 2 months, whichever comes first. Because of its very limited use, there is no structural rust damage under the driver's side or battery tray as exists on many Zs. The only spot with rust on the entire car - and I stripped the entire thing to bare metal - is under the passenger side. Only been in rain a handful of times (and washed immediately afterwards), and has NEVER been off-road or seen snow. It gets washed at least once every two weeks, and waxed every month in the summer and fall. The engine and interior modifications are tasteful and do not alter the physical appearance – as can be seen in the photos, it’s a beautiful, beautiful car. With the Z tuned as it is, it sounds even better. It purrs - its not an obnoxiously loud muscle car. I’m looking for a new owner who is mechanically-minded, willing to put in the time to take care of this classic and make sure it lasts another thirty years without any deterioration. I will NOT sell it to a delinquent racer with loose cash. I love this car, and know every square inch of it, so I’m not willing to part with it unless the new owner knows how to take care of a work of art like this. Along with the car comes a great reflective car cover ($200 value, comes in handy), original toolkit, new scissor jack, Haynes manual, and many spare parts. Please email me at korg_geek@yahoo.com to talk more about its history, and to see many more pictures. NADA average condition value $7300. I just got brand-new collector's license plates on it yesterday, meaning it never has to be re-licensed again and no fees ever apply (i'm not clear on which states this also applies in besides WA). No funny noises, no weird smells, no nothing. Its a perfect sports car for someone who doesn't want to have to tinker around with it much. I know there may not be many of us on this site that want to have a completed car, but I thought I'd give it a shot. I'm moving into the mountains and I need something with AWD, so this has to go. I'd love it if people could email me at korg_geek@yahoo.com, or message me on this site, with any offers - or if any of you have some idea what price i should be looking for with a car like this. Check out my gallery for pictures (engine bay shots coming soon). Sorry for the long message... thanks a lot.

I'm Brett. I've been a member for a year and still haven't done this thing. I'm a 22 year-old graduate student in international relations, who's lived in Washington for some 18 years now, and will never live anywhere else. I myself have two girlfriends as well: 1.) Almost restored 1973 240Z 2.) 2001 Audi TT Since putting in a Pertronix Ignitor and a Fireball coil, I'm happy to report that my Z is much, much faster

Am I crazy, or are these just Opel GTs? I don't think I'm crazy. Did anyone else realize this?

Hi gang, I just drove the Z 2000 miles in two days under a fairly heavy load (try about 700 pounds of baggage) and it performed excellently, I'm proud to say. Only problem is, I have a slight clanking from my engine when it runs now. I'm assuming its my valve clearances since that's what it sounds like. Does anyone have any good tips as to how to adjust the distances the easiest? Like most things, I know most people have their own little trick; I've never done this before, so I'm looking for some good information. Thanks a lot!

Ferrari all the way. They're obviously entering a second rennaissance with the 575 Maranello and the new 420 modena. Not to mention the crazy Enzo (although I'm not sure Enzo himself would approve). They tried building a 12 cylinder Zcar in the 70s (the daytona) and then went full-bore into producing Magnum PI cars in the 80s (the gts line). For about 20 years I wasn't sure what they were thinking, but they're starting to make some absolute works of art. Sooner or later, they're going to come out with a model as exclusive as an F50 that will be the new 1962 250 GTO. As for Nissan, back in 1973 they'd get my vote. As for now, anyone who votes for Nissan hasn't seen what they did to the Skyline. Anyone SEEN the R35? My only hope is that it tanks so bad that they get rid of those Renault engineers and start from scratch.

Ah, found it. The green/white wire from the run side of the ignition was frayed at the end. Put on new clips and started her up. She hasn't sounded this good in a long, long time. :classic:

Well, the good news is that after reconnecting my ballast resistor I have ignition. The bad part is, the engine only runs when the key is held in the start position. I'm assuming I've miswired something, although I thought it was looking pretty snappy. Is something mis-wired with the ignition switch, so that it doesn't continue firing when its not in the ignition position?

Hmmm, ballast resistor is trickier, since I read that you could just subvert the resistor and not use it. The only idea I got tonight was to hook up the resistor again, so that's what I'm going to try tomorrow morning. I'm pretty sure I installed the ignition correctly... since it involves two screws.... At least I hope I did.