dhp123166

You are a better web digger than I ! I was shooting blanks everywhere I turned. Thank you.

Yes, "phenolic" is in the title but there is a lot more included in the correct product name because there are numerous different products that have "phenolic" in the material name. My current plastic choice is Torlon 5030 to replace primarily the circuit board in the hi-lo beam switch but it would be nice to maybe have the same material as OEM. On the other hand, that stuff was kind of too fragile to use as the hi- lo circuit board and 50 years on they are mostly broken or break when attempting removal from the switch housing. Thanks Jim

Who here knows the proper title given to the circuit board that s30 ZCAR headlight and turn signal switches use in their switches? This would be someone with a command of ZCAR esoterica and sadly, most of those guys are passing on. I miss them.

Has anyone ever sourced a reasonable facsimile of the chrome trim ring on the early Z bakelite ashtray? I remember finding something in one of my hardware buckets years ago, and it worked quite well as it was a slight ellipse not perfectly round. Alas I don't know what it was sourced from. Checking for a friend...

Cool.

Thanks for that.

I am a day late and a $ short and am sorry to be the bearer of bad news... ...but there is a reason that metal was not used by Nissan (other than cost). Metal can cause shorts and cause issues with light operation. I have experimented with this and I don't try to substitute metal anymore. Maybe 280z's are different as their electrical systems seem to be more stout than earlier. 240z's though...no way. I have tried metal on no less than 3 occasions and it affects operation, whether wiper motor not shutting off, or tachometer needle dancing around, or headlight operation inconsistent. You were on the right track with one of your ideas.

I would suggest for you to pull your dash harness, unwrap and inspect every terminal and wire and repair or replace as needed. Those white/ red power wires get very hot and under the outer dash harness plastic/ tape covering, they can melt insulation on smaller wires and cause them to contact each other whilst uninsulated. It is not hard, it just takes not a small chunk of time to unwind or meticulously cut the outer dash harness. I use zip ties to keep it all together after and avoid an outer covering to easily identify any issues which may further transpire.

Thank you for the pictures. When you stated that the turn signal switch circuits seemed to be reversed, I immediately knew what I might have done wrong; I thought I might have switched the turn signal wires when replacing the plug. But they are where they should be as you can see by comparing to the attached pictures.

Please show me your plug wires where they meet the plug.

. Ok this shows that you have closed circuits whether you are calling it continuity or ohms on the right side when the lever is in the right position and making a connection of the correct contacts. The lever left is controlling green and white/red and green/ black ( as stated at the end of the sentence) not green/ red and white/ black like you have written in the middle of the above sentence. This supports what I have written in the diagram.

You don't have to use the male part of locking connector, the female part of the connector will function as stock. Check for continuity on the green wire to green/ red wire while the lever is to the left. Check for continuity on the green wire to green/ black wire while the lever is to the right.

No problem eastcoastz. Front turn signal light bulbs have 2 filaments and 2 wires. Rear turn signal bulbs and reverse light bulbs have one filament and if I remember correctly both brake light bulbs have 2 filaments.

True. I could not find that rectangular circuit continuity diagram anywhere online. I only made a cursory Google search. The circuits are what they are because Nissan design allows the brake lights to engage when the brakes are powered and also to individually flash along with whatever side turn signal is engaged. Consequently, the functioning of the switch is not as simple as one wire controls one light. The front and rear turn signals are controlled by the green striped wires on the circuit board sides and the green power wire on the center middle of the circuit board. The rear brakes are controlled by the white striped wires on the circuit board sides and the green/ yellow power wire on the top middle of the circuit board. The brake lights are also controlled by the green power wire when they are in flash mode. Here is something I sketched up previously and forgot I had; NOTE; The numbers on the diagram are arbitrary, they are there to show that there is continuity. Where it states "NONE" means there is no continuity, my multimeter shows a blank when there is none. One multimeter used to have showed a "1" so either reading is correct for no continuity.

In my opinion I am being proactive in protecting my reputation and quality of work. Heated? You call this heated? I don't see any heavy duty personal insults or profanity being thrown around. That's right though, close it...cancel it. Et tu Brute?