pwd

Paints are constantly in a state of flux. As new paint brands are introduced, so are the tints. Not sure how the chemists do it, but for "legacy" vehicles the old color formulas must be recalculated. I figure after several paint generations what was once "1971-73 Datsun 918 Orange" may not be what PPG would mix up today. I have a Hood Inspection Lid from an original 918 Orange car that I compounded and polished out to use as a reference when I paint my car (if I choose Orange). I can take it by my local auto paint store and have them read it on their color analyzer and compare it against their current PPG Deltron/Delstar formulations for accuracy, if you'd like.

My definition of an "unmolested" car would be one that's had no "surgery" done on it for modifications, such as sunroof, enlarged wheel openings, fender flaring, frame stiffening, replacing floor pans with non-original type, etc. IOW, a car that can be easily taken back to near original without much energy. Rust or collision damage repair would not be considered "molesting", unless it was done in a horrible manner. An "unmodified" car would be one that is "unmolested", per the above, with 99% OEM, or OEM replacement parts on it. Just my opinion.

Jim, Here are some pictures from a '73 console. This is from an automatic, but the choke was mounted the same for auto or manual. The mounting posts get damaged from the pressure exerted on them when the choke cables start to stick, or from something heavy pushing down on the lever. I'm in the process of restoring several consoles and have not arrived at a method of reinforcing the mounting. Notice the big hole in the center area. I have no idea what that was for, but it will be plugged. Choke mounting posts - (gear shift at top) the post beneath the large circular hole and to the right of it are the mounting points. Choke in place top view (ashtray at bottom) Choke in place lever side view Choke in place front to back view Side view - notice typical damage to mounting post

Thanks for the correction! I didn't know. I guess I'd better snap up a set of steel wheels, while I can find them, just to have a set.

I thought all Datsuns of the day (510, 610, Pickup, etc.), all used the same steel wheels?

If I were you I'd find a period A-H engine and put it back in, thereby increasing the value 5-10X.

From Wikipedia: "According to the patent literature, ArmorAll typically contains water, PDMS, diethylene glycol, glycerin, and various other chemical compounds." Glycerin is known to soften natural (gum) rubber, which is probably why it got put in there when it was invented in the 70s. The original company was sold and the product may have gone through many "reformulations" since. Would you care to "tempt fate" and press your thumb down hard on the top of your dash between the Tach and Temp Gauge to see how flexible it remains? I have a couple of old dashes, from Texas 240Z's and the vinyl is still flexible in the front and sides, but very brittle on the top. It cracks with little effort. Don't get me wrong, I'd be very interested to know how long you've used ArmorAll and if your car has been garaged most of the time, etc. If you search the Internet you'll see a raging debate going on about the effectiveness of these "protectants". More data is always good. Thanks.

At the time these dashes were manufactured, PVC sheet could not be used due to its stiffness, so "plasticizers" were added to the PVC compound prior to extruding to make it more flexible. Adding enough plasticizer resulted in Naugahyde for furniture. The plasticizers, unfortunately, outgas from the material over time and at elevated temperature, causing it to become brittle and subject to cracking. UV damage also plays a role, though I'm not sure how much. Modern automotive interior components no longer use this PVC material, and tend to last much, much longer. While there are many products on the market claiming to restore plasticizers, that simply can't happen. Many products are silicone based and provide a longer lasting shine. However, adding shine won't help stop plasticizer outgassing.

I'll defer to the forum experts, but my data says that no 240Z, auto or manual, ever came with an R160 installed.

http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-240Z-parts-brakes.html Then scroll down.

He's got 8 more up for sale.

There are a number of products on the market which neutralize rust. They're all Phosphoric Acid or Zinc Phosphate based. Probably the most widely known is POR-15. The same company also has a product called "Metal-Ready" in a pump spray if you want to use body paint instead of POR-15.

I was wondering about these being reproduced. Just a simple ABS plastic blow mold. The seller isn't too far from me. From his eBay feedback it looks like he bought a set in Mar 2010 and perhaps used these to make his mold. And to think, I paid almost that much for a set of good used ones.

I'm going through the same dilemma regarding color choice. My '73 was 113 Avocado Green, which is not something I'd be interested in driving around in. I'll either paint it 918 Orange (an iconic 240Z color), or 901 Silver (always a safe color), and restore it 100% original, requiring an interior color change from Butterscotch (that vinyl is NLA) to Black, or just go with a non-original color altogether, do a "sympathetic" restoration, and have fun with it. Good luck with your decision.

Go to your local Powder Coater and ask them about their hi-temp products. It will be available in a variety of colors. It's very durable and will stand up to the heat.

When in doubt drain it out and replenish. That way you know exactly what you've got, no guessing.

No, not a bad booster, it's just there to reduce the effort a little. If you're not losing any fluid to external leaks, then you have a problem with the Master Cylinder itself.

Place an American flag sticker above it. These "colors" never run!

"If you have two people who think alike you don't need one of them." Unknown

Picked up another '73 dash over the weekend from a local salvage yard and found this one in the usual spot.

I believe the answer from our forum experts will be that no one knows how rare any color is, since the factory did not keep detailed production records, as was common with American cars of the era. You can only go by how many you see today, and that means little, since people were constantly changing colors on their cars.

Body Schutz by 3M, hands down. It takes a special applicator gun, but you can buy a cheap knock-off called a BUPA gun at the paint store or on-line. We used this on one of our projects as an undercoat and were extremely happy with the results. It's only available in black and not tintable, however.

Have you thought of this?

I concur with Ozconnection. One of the most important tools to have in your toolbox is a radiator pressure tester. It should be the first thing used in troubleshooting a cooling problem. Cooling system problems can worsen progressively, to the point of cracked heads, blocks, etc. If the system has ever been significantly overheated, it could be a warped/cracked heard, or burned head gasket. (Note: always allow an overheated engine to cool down naturally to ambient temperature before filling with water) More than likely you have a defective hose, or radiator. Interior heater hoses and the heater core can fail and cause pressure loss too. With the radiator cap OFF and the Heater Controls to full heat, run the engine up to normal operating temperature with the coolant level just below the tank filler neck. If you see water coursing through with no significant bubbles or pulsing, you probably don't have a breech into the combustion chamber. There are also "color change testers" to check for the presence of exhaust fumes in coolant. Also, if you don't see significant water in your engine oil, you probably don't have block related problems either. Now that the system is warmed up, fully open and full of coolant, replace the radiator cap. This ensures the pressurized system has been "bled" so that air is completely out. Often, when replacing a hose, water pump, etc. a significant amount of air is introduced to the system, which must be purged, or else you get reduced cooling, and gurgling.

If you're real handy, and have lots of time on your hands, you could always follow this guy's lead and build a 240Z chassis jig. http://www.vord.net/cars/240z/chassis-jig.htm