Pomorza

Thank you sir! I'll keep yall updated

What about the red/blue to the hazard lights? Doesn't that need to be connected some way?

Based on the diagram I'm looking at this is what I see: (this diagram) Red/Blue goes from the dimmer to the hazard switch. Green/White goes to the combination switch. Using your previous example I figured another relay would look like this. Green/White -> 86 & 87 Red/Blue -> 85 Dash lights -> 30. I'm 100% sure on that but it makes sense to me. Would you agree? I figured the lights were driven off power and ground but clearly I was wrong. Cheers Jan

Steve. I bought some 6.3mm connectors for this job last year so connector wise I'm ready to go. I do plan on depinning all the pins/wires I don't use and pulling them out of the harness. As for the LED head lights, I've been running H4 headlights since I bought the car in 2009. I will add headlight relays since I already have the harness out of the car. For the backlight on the gauge (single white wire). Does this also have to go through a relay with the wht/grn + red/blue wire or can I just by pass the dimmer? Cheers Jan

I was worried that this would require more than just plug and play. Simple enough though, I was planning on adding relays to the headlights anyway. Just to make sure I have everything correct here. From the Speedhut schematic 1. Red (pwr) -> Green power wire on Z car (12V) 2. Black (gnd) -> black on z car (ground) 3. White (lights) -> green/white on Z car (dash lights)* 4. Blue (high beam) -> pin 30 on said relay 5. Green/orange (RTS) -> white/black on Z car (12v turn sign right) 6. green/red (LTS) -> white/red Z car(12v turn sig. left) *Or do the dash lights also have to go through a relay since there are two wires. I don't plan on using the dimmer (was actually planning on removing it all together). All the other gauges are just three wire + sensors which I can figure out pretty easily. Thank you for all the help! Cheers Jan

Speed hut Z series. The speedometer has both the high beam indicator (one wire) and the turn signals (one wire each).

Steve. Thank you sir. How would I go about wiring the high beam indicator on my new gauge if its only one wire - should I just put the red + red/white together? Cheers Jan

Hello everyone At the beginning of November I started the restoration of my 76' 280z. The body is currently getting fixed and painted, engine is being rebuilt and I took on the task of rewiring the dash for the new gauges. My plan is to use the wires required from the original dash harness while getting rid of the ones I don't. Here is where the problem(s) start. I have a FSM and a colored wiring diagram but to be honest I'm having a hard time figuring out what wire does what. I started with the speedometer, which in the FSM states has 7 wires (one spare pin). Mine has all eight used. The connector pins out as follows: The connector is as follows: Red Red/white Green/white Green/yellow Red/Blue Black Green Green/red I know that the green/white and red/blue are the dash lights - not sure which one is power and which one is ground - and black is ground. I'm also almost positive that the red is your 12V switched from the fuse panel. All the other ones I'm at a loss for. Could someone chime and help? Thank you Jan

Hi guys! In the near future I will be rebuilding my Z engine and plan on replacing the N47 head that's on it with a N42 I purchase years ago. The issue is that the cam on the N42 is, well rusted and pitted. I was looking at getting the Cam kit that MSA sells (the Schneider Cam) that comes with everything. Has anyone else used these? Or are there better options? If Im replacing the cam I figured I would need new rockets and lash pads no? Thanks mate Cheers Jan

Hello all This afternoon I took the Z for a nice long drive, and realized quite quickly that everything smelled like fuel. Pulled over and checked both the fuel pump and the injectors for leaking and nothing. Whatever no harm, kept driving but the smell was still there. Finally got home and found that one of the vent hoses - the dreaded bent one - is kinked and leaking. Two questions. 1. Can this vent tank be removed? I know at one point there was a thread on how to do so but it seems to have disappeared. 2. Does anyone have any photos of what they have done? I have an 76 280z. Thanks all Jan

I don't mind the stock mechanical fan but it appears to me that the fan clutch is broken - i.e once it engages it will never disengage when I drive. I'm thinking of replacing it or attempting to repair it but I figured I'd ask about the electric fans just out of curiosity. Cheers Jan

Hello mates I'm sure this has been discussed but my searching abilities are kind of useless today - its been a long weekend - but has anyone used the Z car depot electric fan shroud and fans for a 280z? Do you like it or do you prefer running other fans/fan combos? Thank you all Jan

Hi mates I have a weird issue I hope someone can help me with. A few months ago I installed a brand new master cylinder and a complete rear disk brake conversion (with SS lines). I have a weird issues where it seems that the front brake reservoir is draining into the rear one. Example. This evening I drove my Z from my parents place back to mine, roughly 30 minutes of driving. When I was leaving the front brake reservoir was on Low and the rear one was on full. Get to my house and the rear one is completely overflowing and the front one is slightly lower then it was before. Is it possible that I have some sort of back flow issue here? This isn't the first time this has happened (actually the second) and I thought I had fixed it. (Mind you I haven't driven the Z for more than about fifteen minutes in about four months). Thanks mates Cheers Jan

Zed Head. Yea I understand the fuel pressure drop after the pump is off. I run an updated EFI system so I can pressurize the system before having to start it. Thanks for the advice Cheers Jan

Let me rephrase that. I've did a really quick google search last evening on adjustable FPRs for 280z. The third link down was Zcar depot which has a whole rail and FPR setup. The FPR - based on their information - runs at 40 psi. Clearly this wasn't an intensive attempt at research but I figured a few people here might have updated their fuel rails and was wondering what FPRs they use - I guess I may have asked the question incorrectly. Cheers

Hey mates Has anyone updated their fuel rail to something like the pallnet or similar and run an after market adjustable FPR? Which ones do y'all use? The ones I'm finding are all 40 PSI + which is ever so slightly above the stock 36 PSI. Thanks Cheers

Hey mates A few months back I completely R&Red the cooling system on my Z. New Radiator, hoses, pump fan and fan clutch - everything but the radiator was from Zcardepot. Also did the thermostat and gaskets there. The cooling system works wonderful the only issue I'm running into is that the fan is on, all the dam time. It was never like this before I replaced the clutch and it seems a bit overkill to me (I know I live in Arizona but still). I know these clutches can be rebuilt but has anyone run into this issue with a brand new clutch? Thanks Cheers.

Hey mates Since the temps are over 100 here in the desert I figured this weekend would be the perfect time to replace the u joints on the half shafts (axle shafts). I spent most today getting the U joints out of the axle shafts. Before putting the new ones on I ran into the dreaded "while I'm here" moments and inspected the boots. While they aren't in the worse shape both seem to have small tears in them. Replacing these requires disassembly of the axles, which I went ahead and did. Does anyone have an recommendations on what type of grease to use on the inside of the axle shafts? The FSM doesn't really define it in a meaningful way other than multipurpose. Would plain wheel bearing grease do the trick? Thanks Cheers Jan

Hey mates This up coming weekend I'm going to be replacing the shocks on the Z. While I have the front struts out of the car I figured (..you know while I'm already here...) I might as well do the strut bearing - the bearing on the top of the strut. Does anyone happen to know off hand an off the shelf part number for these? How difficult are they to do? Thanks Cheers Jan

Mate that looks fine, I can more than likely fix that. If you're serious about sending it let me know Cheers Jan

@grannyknot DMed you

Hey mates Quick question. Is there any difference between the steering column covers between years (as in will a 240 one fit on a 280)? The lower section of my 76' was left in the Arizona sun (...yea smart on my part) and deformed to the point where its unusable. Thank you Jan

The charge light was not on no. By no charge I mean the gauge was showing me 12V. When I got to work and turned off my headlights the fan started blowing a lot more. The L wire on the T plug, which wire would that be? Cheers

Hello all This morning - it was 28°F - while driving to work my alternator decided that it had enough of my crap. Gauge showed absolutely no charging and the fan was having a hard time blowing any amount of air with the headlights on. Got to work turned the Z off. Got a DMM out start the car and magic the alternator works again. Its been making bad bearing noises in the past couple of weeks so upon arriving home I decided to just swap it out with a refurbished one. Come to find that the little capacitor looking thing - I'm guessing it would be the condenser is no longer connected to any part of the loom. So a few questions. 1. Is the condenser needed? I don't actually have a radio in my car and I've read that this is what this is for. 2. My voltage regulator is rather new - its 9 years old and its the newer type regulators (i.e not the massive one with the posts and all from the 70's). Are these prone to going bad? 3. Anyone ever have an alternator stop/start working randomly? Cheers Jan

It was just a flat piece and I figured it out literally a few minutes after I posted this. There is a tube that runs under the throttle body that allows air from in front of the butterfly into the intake - and this flat piece sadly does not stop this air. Ruined a perfectly good throttle body gasket to figure this out. Would filling this with some good old silicone do the trick (black RTV letting it dry over night) or should I do a more thorough job? Cheers Jan