Pomorza

What Bill said. Call em up and schedule an appointment, they're awesome.

:beer:

I did my oil pan gasket a few months back when I did the front cover. I used a gasket and some ultra copper silicon just for good measure. I don't know what the heck those guys are talking about. If the gasket is there and the pan is torqued down correctly it should not leak period. What dealership did you go to? Jan

I'm just going to say this. My Z has, according to all my records (and the tach), 248k on her. I had it compression tested a week ago and its 150 across all six, (yes ALL six). I've used Mobile 5000 (10w 40) in the engine for over a year now(I've owned it for 1.5 years). Its oil guys, if you use the right kind (viscosity) and replace it on a regular basis (3k like I do) I don't see any reason for spending extra on fancy synthetics. Also I've advised by my machinest (who has been rebuilding engines for 40+ years) that using a can of Restore (the blue stuff) every third oil change isn't a bad idea either. That being said. If you race (autocross,ect) and keep the Z at the 5k+ for extensive periods of time then yes spending extra on motor oil is probably a great idea. Jan

This should help. It goes with the large groove (open section) down filled with grease. Jan

Hey Chad, As mentioned above try to narrow down the issue, as replacing something that isn't broken is a bit of a waste of time. Secondly, what part of the midwest do you live in? If you choose to tackle the job this will help you greatly. There are a few other sites. The factory service manual (FSM) can be downloaded from here if you don't already have it. While some of the repairs require special tools you can rent them at the local parts store (autozone ect.) for the day, usually for a small fee. In my opinion if you are good at tinkering you can more than likely do nearly any repair on a Z. Jan

Hey all I know I've asked this before I just can't seem to find it again. This afternoon while driving down I-10 up to Phoenix a large projectile of sorts (a rock probably) hit my window about six inches on on the driver's side. Made a hell of a crack that spider-webbed a few inches. Due to the fact that I already have two other cracks and the weather stripping is, well, no longer there to be honest, I've decided to replace the window. Two issues of sorts. My insurance covers windshield replacement (its free) should I go through them to have this done? Secondly, has anyone had any luck finding the windshield locally? I haven't tired calling around yet as it happened earlier today and I had to replace the fuel pump (that's another story). Thanks all Jan

Hey guys Are all L series motors (24,26,28) have the same timing cover on them? Mine has a leak on the water pump due to corrosion and I wish to replace it if possible. Jan

Well I'm fixing both the fuel pump and the CSV in the Z this weekend, so I'm taking your advice on this one. Jan

I understand this mate and I've been told numerous times that EFI doesn't get vapor lock. Well apparently I'm getting it, but I think it has to do more with leaky devices (fuel pump check valve, CSV) rather than heat. Is there any reason, other than price, that wrapping it would be a bad idea. I understand it doesn't need it but keeping anything cold in the engine bay is a good idea isn't it? Feel free to advise one way or the other. Jan

Hey guys For a number of years I've noticed that many people wrap their fuel rails in heat insulation type material. Two questions. 1. Does this help in any way? 2. I found this the other day and thought it might be interesting. I only ask as well the fuel rail gets rather hot after a nice long drive (to the touch that is) and to me insulating it wouldn't be a bad idea. Jan

Hey guys It has come time to replace the master and slave clutch cylinders on my Z, as one (or both possibly) are leaking. Do you guys have a preference or brands to avoid? I was going to get PBR as that is what my brake master is and I haven't had any issues with it. Thanks Jan

Well here's the bit of a problem. The cold start valve I have is a replacement from MSA and thus doesn't have the original markings. Has anyone bought there's from parts stores? Nissan dealer here no longer carries it. Jan

I do have hot air from the heater on my feet and on the windshield yes, as I used it this morning as it was 20. The cable that controls the blower box flap (the thing on the bottom side of the blower motor housing that directs air, don't know what that is called), is connected to something but I don't know what. Since its winter I made it so that air gets drawn from the inside. What does the HVAC vacuum control port do? Jan

This describes my Z's idle the for the first couple of months I owned it. When it was chilly outside (or cold like it is today) I would start it and it would do pretty much the same the thing. I replaced the air regulator and it fixed right away. Personally I avoided fixing it as I thought it really didn't affect the cars driving (and I was not in the mood to spend $120). If you can live without it, it should be fine. I replaced my as it began bothering me on colds days when it would idle at ~500 for a rather lengthy period of time. Hope that helps Jan

When I bought the car the AC didn't work so I chose to remove it. That part or parts (hose and all) were not on the car when I bought it. I believe the previous owner removed it when it broke and didn't bother to replace it. Without the rest of that system is that part pretty much useless? Does it affect the cars vac at all? Jan

Hey guys Don't want to thread jack so I'm going to ask this in another one. What is the little thing that sits in front of the EGR valve.(picture included) Jan

Thirty years of innovations and it only just beat a 260Z and was crushed by a 300ZX. Jan

Hey guys I'm replacing the cold start valve and I'm on a bit lost on which one to get. Both places I went to asked if it was the "black" or "green" one. What is the difference between these two? Jan

Bill I did notice this. When I turn my car off, the pressure will drop to about ~25 or so and then start rising up, where it will reach ~30 and then stay there for a while. The pressure will drop over night to ~10 or so sometimes and other times it'll hold at 30 all night. It is rather confusing. Not the less, I have some sort of leak somewhere. cozye, since I'm already going to replace the pump it makes no sense to me not to do all the lines (rubber) when I'm down there. I'm one of those folks (its the engineering part of me) that thinks that if I replace one old thing the others near by are bound to fail soon. (it happened to me with the radiator and waterpump, one went and the other one followed) Jan

Since I got all the parts already,dampener included, I might as well replace it wouldn't you think? I'm tempted to say that my fuel pump is nearly 20 tears old, as all the paper work indicates that it was replaced sometime between 90-96 so I am willing to bet that the pump isn't in the best shape anymore. Jan

Exactly what Z train said. We start the car after I drove to Ztrains place after letting it sit for, oh ten minutes maybe. Problem was clearly there. While sitting trying to figure out problem we revved the engine a few times (4 or 5 maybe) and the said problem went away. To be honest it sound that FastWoman is right on this one though. Z train, although the issue was there and the plugs were dead on, as you told me since the car "fixed" itself it is possible the plugs would show any sort of lean/air mixture. I'm going to go ahead and replace the fuel related devices as I have nearly everything but the actual pump. (I have the dampener, regulator and the CSV) Jan

A question for you guys. If one was to unplug the cold start valve and start the car should it run differently? (when cold) Jan

Yes I didn't read that. I got similar lenses.

I bought these when I first bought the car. I personally think they're awesome as they really lightened up the road. My next investment is this for the lights. Jan