Pomorza

I don't see sludge being in the oil passages as I've run two different desluging agents in the engine. I've inspected the cam and all the oiling holes look good. When the car is running (with valve cover off) there is equal amounts of oil coming from the cam oiling holes. Jan

Hi all Three months ago I did an oil change in my Z. I decided to run a lower weight oil (10W40) as, well it was on sale. In the past (I'm sure you guys might remember) I had a rather interesting noise coming from the top end. Well after this oil change I ran a can of seafoam through the intake and the noise all but disappeared. This evening I did another oil change. I went back to the 20W50 oil I've used in the past as 104 degree summers do nice things engines here. Well the noise is back. Same marble sounds when I release the throttle. Usually appears around 3K or so and lasts until idle. The cam itself is rather loud now. I don't understand why oil weight has this affect on my car. I ran a tad bit of sea foam through the intake but it didn't solve any of the issues. Does anyone have ANY ideas what this can be? It is driving me nuts when I rev and I hear that BLASTED rattle. It scares me. The chain and tensioner are new, BRAND new. The valves are all adjusted the right way. I've checked and rechecked and rechecked. Thanks Jan

I was actually thinking of going there myself. Thanks for the help guys Jan

Battery terminals are clean and shinny. Jan

It is externally regulated. Jan

Went to the parts store earlier today. Batter test 100% good. I asked them test my alternator (with the car on) and their testing devise stated that I have low output. So I'm guessing a new alternator/regulator are in order huh? Jan

To be honest whichever. Keeping the regulator is fine, not having one is fine. At this point I wish to get the car working to a point where I'm not afraid to drive it without the light on. Jan

I may indeed check all the electrical work to the car. None of the fuses (other than the A/C one) has ever reached a temp higher than what I would like it to, that being hot or something. I am running aftermarket headlights (H4 replaceable bulbs to be exact, 55W I believe) so I can see how it can draw more power than the stock ones. What is the best place to get alternators/regulators. There's a place here in Tucson that rebuilds alternators which I'm considering instead of getting new one. Did forget to mention this. I replaced all four of my fusible links about a week ago as one of them broke in my hand (literally). I bought replacements from MSA and they seem to work great. I believe I have a green two reds and a black. I don't know if this makes a difference to my Z's issues. Thanks Jan

I'm pretty sure it is the regulator but you guys tell me to make sure. I connected the positive to the one screw on the alternator with the wires going to it (with the black cover) The ground wire I connected to the ground on the on battery (+). With the car running (lights off) the DMM read roughly 13.25 but was very very erratic (dropping up and down .5 volts). When I revved the car the it continue rising up to and maxes out at 15.5 volts. With the (lights ON) it idles at roughly 13.1 volts again rather erratically. When revved (to 3k maybe) it hits 14V roughly. Again all the readings were very erratic so getting a good reading was hard to to do. Hope this is enough to let you guys know what it is. Jan

Ok so I need to use a DMM on place it on the alternator output to the battery? Sorry I'm familiar on how alternators work just not on how the wires are set up. Thanks Jan

Hey guys. In the past couple of weeks I've noticed that my volt gauge is not stable when I'm driving. At idle it sometimes jumps a bit (to the left and right). When I drive it does evens out but sometime it'll jump up to 16+ and then back down to where it should be. Any ideas? Jan

I used a hose clamp at the bottom of the leaky injector and that "fixed" the problem for now.While fixing the injector I noticed that all the injectors have "Python" written on them. After talking to a few people I come to believe that all six of my injectors are replaced with OE "replacements" . Jan

I think I've discovered the source of the sqeaking. Has anyone ever done this. Is plain ol' white lithium grease ok or should i use wheel bearing grease? Jan

To get it cooler. Start with the basics. Get a thermostat and do a nice flush of the system. See how that affects your issue. Make sure that your fan clutch engages when it needs to. If your going to do the waterpump may a suggest you do the bolts too. The bolts they use have a tendency of snapping if reused (first hand knowledge here) so replacing them with the pump is a good call. Jan

In my opinion 230 is a bit hot for the L motor. Where did you get this reading the gauge or something a bit more accurate? I don't think you will have to upgrade you motor just update it. By update I mean flush the system and make sure all the cooling components work as they are made to. For reference at 75 mph here in Tucson the other day (when it was 105) my Z was running under the midway point of the gauge. Last time i checked it with a thermometer just under the midway point the temp was 185. (*so I'm estimating I was running at about 190 or so) Jan

Personally looking at the amount of rust on the surface I'm afraid to even see the hidden damages. In my honest opinion I would pass. Even if you did you own body work and painted it the color you want I can't see paying $500 for that car. Look at it this way. For the amount of money you'll spend (and time of course) fixing that car up you could buy a Z with less body damages and do the work to that one. Replacing nearly ever panel on the car just doesn't seem like my type of "fun" Jan

Hey guys. Earlier today when I drove my Z I noticed that when turning to the left my steering (or something in it is sqeaking). The front bearing are all new, and I'm wondering if anyone else had any issues like this in the past? Jan

One more question for you guys. Are 810 injectors the same as the ones on Z's? Jan

Replied to...:laugh:

I don't mind waiting it's just that I'm afraid that the leak will get worse. I can't not drive my car as at the moment its my only form of transportation. Jan

I might be interested in that. I did take my Z to the Datsun guys I know and was advised that I do indeed need to replace them. I do have a question for you all. Has anyone used the "NEW" injectors that MSA sells? I mean if I have one bad injector its bound (I'm sure Murphy's Laws will abide here) that the other ones aren't far behind in breaking. (they are 34+ years old) Jan

Hey guys Earlier today I was doing some minor cleaning in the engine bay of my Z when I smelled the distinct smell of fuel. I started the Z and began to investigate from where the smell was coming from. The number 5 injector seems to be the culprit. The rubber hose seems to be leaking from where it enters the little metal collar. (I have no idea what this is called sorry, but the injectors have a metal collar looking deal where the hose enters). The leak isn't "bad" but any gasoline in or near the exhaust makes me rather squeamish. Has anyone ever dealt with these? If so how hard is it to get the hose to stop leaking? Jan

Hello all After a month of vacation I finally got my Z back on the road. After hooking the battery back up I fired her up. She started as if I had never left. Walking around the engine bay I noticed that the alternator rattles (or wobbles would be a better word) From the looks there are two bolts holding it to the engine. Two questions. 1. Should there be more bolts holding it on? There is a clear hold on the back side of the alternator nearest the engine. (not on the little track) 2. If the bolt had broken, does anyone know what kind and where one could find a bolt? Jan

That car is still amazing..

Thanks guys for the feedback. At the moment my suspension is in dire need of attention so I'm pretty sure I'm going to start there. As winter is on its way and temps will drop (I hope) this shouldn't be much of an issue for a bit. I'm thinking of wrapping the FI lines in some sort of heat resistance material to keep them cool and see if that helps in the time being. Any experience with this or concerns? Jan