Pomorza

I check the fuses earlier and found them to be all OK. I guess I was blind as the one for the STOP lights was clearly blown. I replaced with a 10A fuse and rear lights now work. Thanks. The flasher fuse looked nice and clear but I'll replace and see what occurs but not now as its fairly dark. Thanks Jan

Hello all After three weeks of being away from my Z I returned last night. This morning I bought a brand new battery as the old one was well, um not exactly good any more. (leaking all over and such). Put battery in the car (negative terminal first then positive) and started the Z after three weeks of sitting. Not to my amazement the car started and ran perfectly. Once warmed up I revved the car a number of times and then took it for a nice ride. Later that evening I was driving home from a friends. Noted two things. One the warning flashers (emergency lights) no longer work. Push down the switch and nothing. Blinkers still work fine but the emergency ones do not. Secondly brake lights are gone. Press the brake and no lights at all. I do have driving lights (as the rear lights turn on with the lights on) but brake lights are not there. Any ideas on above problems. Thanks greatly Jan Lentowicz

Hello all I've read a number of threads here about installing cruise control on a 280z. Does anyone have any thoughts on which one to go with and pictures of how it looks. I'm interested as I'll be making a fairly long distance drive this summer so I'm doing a bit of planning ahead Thanks Jan

Hello all I actually have two questions. First off my Z has nasty overspray on the passenger side door panel. I tried using paint thinner to get it off with very little success. I've read a thread someplace to use lacquer thinner, does this work better? Anyone have pictures or tips about getting paint off said panel. Secondly. I cannot for the life of me find a 280z emblem for the rear hatch. Does anyone know of a place or have some lying around. Most of the places I've found use the "replace" method where you ship yours in and they give you a "new" one. But I don't have one to send in and the price is a bit steep for just an emblem. Jan

Can't really help you on the first question but as for the AAR. AAR I believe would be the Auxiliary Air Regulator. And yes it allows more air to enter the engine when the engine is cold. Basically its a giant vacuum leak that closes over time. It sits on top of the intake and has two hoses going to it and an electrical connector. Jan

I had this same issue on my Z where the P.O drilled a hole in the tranny tunnel about a sixth of the way back. My advise is this. Either figure out where these "mystery" wires go to and what they control. Once you have this figure out you can do one of two things. First reroute the wires in a more appropriate way and weld the said hole shut. Or you can leave the wires there and fill in the hole with some rubber or gasket maker or something. Either way fill in that hole. Water has a nasty way of finding its way into any area where it can. Water and thirty plus year old metal isn't exactly the best combination. Jan

Wow this is a fairly perplexing situation. I'm still leaning on there either being a blockage in the block or as you said some kind of crack in the water jacket that isn't letting water flow. But in that case you would still get an area of very hot water for a time, or at least I would think so. One more idea to throw out there. Try flushing the system in different areas. What I mean instead of just forcing water through the thermostat housing down try maybe forcing it through the heater core, through the heater return line through the water pump. There has to be a reason your engine isn't getting to a proper temperature. Jan

Leonard one more idea I have. First off go around the engine with a temp sensor (laser type) and see if the engine is all at the same temperature. What I mean is make sure the front and rear of the engine are all at the same temp. It is possible that you still have a clog or something in the water jacket that restricts the flow. I can't see any other reason why you engine should run so cold. Maybe a faulty temperature sensor is causing the engine to lean out the mixture prematurely.. This in theory would cause the engine to run cooler but again...just an idea. Hope that helps Jan

Leonard from what you found it sounds to me like your block has a clog in it. To me if you had no flow prior to the flush and some flow afterwords the flush had something to do with the "fix". That being said, are you the original owner of the car? Have you (or the P.O) ever used any of that stop leak stuff? Jan

Was browsing craigslist looking for parts for the ol' Z. Stumbled upon a 1970 240z. Doesn't look to be in great shape but it's there. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/1515289015.html Jan

I know this one...its a dog. :laugh:. But anyhow I will take a look at it when I get back from Christmas vacation. Thanks all Jan

Leonard the only thing I can think of that can lead to your specific problem would be a clog somewhere. I can't see anything else causing the water not to flow towards the heater core. That is about all I can think of. If my memory serves me right you own a 280z. If so try taking off the piping where the lower radiator hose connects to the block.(lower water neck I guess would be the name?) Take a look at all the lines and see if they are nice and open. Is you heater core clogged maybe? Jan

Ok here is a bit of an update. I drove the Z in the mountains again this past Saturday. The drive took about 45 minutes. About half way there the ticking started. (). But as advised I just drove on my happy way ignoring it. Parked the car and left for oh five hours or so. Came back and did the same drive (exactly just up hill) and long and behold no ticking...none nada. So upon arriving home I popped the hood and began to inspect around the exhaust manifold. There "seems" to be a bit of a brownish haze along and above where the manifold meets the head. Didn't get to touch it as the engine is still hot. Did notice that the valve cover gasket it saturated with oil, weird, its new. A number of reason why I'm leaning on an exhaust leak. (please feel free to advise on these). First when driving there is a fairly constant smell of exhaust when cold. Secondly when, say I'm going 55 (or any speed above 40) and I release the throttle for a few seconds and then reapply the throttle a fairly nasty smell of exhaust fills the cabin momentarily. Let me know if this helps in you diagnosis. Jan

Jimmy. The coolant level is great. Its actually a bit higher than it should. (as its above the "full" line). As for the sound. From all my snooping around with a stethoscope it is most definitely coming from the injector side of the engine. I haven't had a mechanic hear it but to be really honest to you it literally sounds like an injector "tick" but about twice the amplitude. The sound also "tends" to match the pulsating in the fuel rail. (or that is what it really seems like) I'm leaning on an exhaust leak of some kind or injector(s) problems as I'm pretty sure that a spun bearing or connecting rod problem would occur at all engine temperature wouldn't it and not after driving for nearly an hour? I just drove the car to pick up a friend (drove for about twenty minutes) and no ticking at all could be heard unless you pop the hood and get close to the injectors. I'm trying to be as descriptive as possible but its a bit hard over the net. But I hope this helps with the diagnosis. Jan

Ok thank you guys. Now to ask, other than causing the ticking noise can these leaks lead to any problem such as warping or anything? I mean I want to get it fixed but money is a bit...tight at the moment as I just fixed the drive shaft and tranny mount. Jan

Hello all So I bought a 280z (1976) back in August. Since that day I've had random ticking coming from the engine bay when driving for an hour or more. So like everyone advised I went and had my valves adjusted to the specs. Sound didn't go away. So I took it in again and they found that the exhaust manifold was loose and tightened it down. This made the sound slightly less audible but still there. So here's my concern. The best and only way I can think of describing this sound is its injector tick but really loud. By loud I mean LOUD. At 85mph with the windows open I can still make it out over the engine and other sounds. I ask this as this past Friday I drove down to Tombstone to visit. The drive took about 2.5 hours through the winding mountain roads of s. Arizona. Temp today was about 70 or so where I was. The engine temp needle never even reached the midway mark. To be exact it sat 3/4 of the way between 120 and the midway mark. (so like 170 maybe?). Anyhow about an hour into the drive the ticking begins. Its fairly constant and increases/decreases with engine RPM. So here is my question to you all. What exactly can cause this sound? I mean it sounds like very loud injectors so can the injectors just be very loud due to engine heat or something? I'm at a loss here and it very agitating to drive with this ticking noise. (as I have no radio) Any advise would be great. Jan

First off how bad is the said rust? Secondly when you say it doesn't run exactly what do you mean? Does the engine crank at all? Have you changed any of the fluids in the engine? When did it last run? I would start by probably fixing the rust. You can't really drive a car with it falling apart really. Jan

Driving ;-) So I took my Z out tonight for a bit of a drive. You know to stretch here wheels a bit as she hasn't been taken out in a while. Drove for about an hour in the hills of west Tucson. Hit 70 a couple of times in 3rd (4k on the tach) Had a blast driving on dark roads with nothing but the sound of the engine. Man do I love my Z! ::classic: Did notice two things that I would like some feed back on. 1. After about 45 minutes that annoying ticking noise returned. It isn't as loud as it was a month or two ago (when I was annoying you all about it) but its there. Oil pressure is nice, just past the midway point nearly all the time. Any ideas. For what I can tell you all its coming from the fuel injectors or that side of the engine. 2. Fifth gear is loud. Literally I put it in fifth once and the second I push the accelerator down I heard a fairly loud low pitch roaring sound. Can't tell you where it was located but I dropped down to fourth pretty soon afterwords and the noise goes away. The Z was originally a 4 speed if that helps. Any ideas? Jan

Hi all I spent the last half hour using the search feature but still cannot find what I'm looking for. My Z is missing two of the ducts (plastic tubes) that run air to the outside vents. Does anyone know where one could get these or what else can be used? It's fairly annoying only having air come out of the center vents and no on the sides. Thanks Jan

Thanks a lot mate. Yes mine Z is built 01/76. Even without the 5% off and all $40 is a boat load better than $75. Thanks again Jan

You guys are awesome! Thanks a lot now I can actually have 16 lug nuts that all match and not 12 that do and 4 that don't. Jan

Hello again So at the moment both my rear drums need to be rebuilt as the wheel cylinders are leaking fluid quite badly. For just parts at the moment I'm looking at spending roughly $300 or so. So I'm wondering one thing. I've been told by a number of Z people I know (and have seen some posts here) that rear disks off later model ZX's fit 280z. How much would converting the rear drums into ZX disk brakes run me? I'm just looking for options as $75+ for a wheel cylinder is just a tad bit high in my opinion. Any advise or information would be wonderful. Jan

Oh, well thanks for the very good information. I have what I guess you would call "spiderweb" rims.(look at picture). I cannot for the life of me find lug nuts for them and I'm attempting to get rid of them as they weight a ton. Jan

Hello all I'm attempting to find some rims for my Z. The current ones I have are just not exactly the best. Would anyone know where I could find a set? They look like these http://media.photobucket.com/image/280z%20wheels/oinojo/DSC01386.jpg. I believe these are stock rims? Jan

Have you ever done a flush of the block and or the heater core? I had the same kind of issue with my friends ford. The previous owner used "something" to fix the radiator and it got stuck in the block. Took us literally hours to get it out and get it back working. Anyhow from what your saying the coolant hose from the top of the thermostat is cold. I'm nearly positive it should be at least warm to the touch. I don't see how the waterpump or something can cause water to bypass the thermostat. From every image of the cooling system on Z's that I've seen water goes from the thermostat to the top of the radiator down to the opening around block and back up after going through the coolant lines.(I'm sure this is right...right?). So I just don't see that happening that your coolant goes around your thermostat unless there are so voids or something there. Where did you get your thermostats from? It is possible that both are bad and stuck open I would test them in hot water. I'm with fastwoman on this one as I'm running out of ideas. Unless your 280z is completely different than my 76' I can't see how it runs this cold. Do you have a working temp sensor(s)? It is possible that they are telling the computer that it warm when its not causing it to lean out the mixture. (just throwing ideas out there now). Hope this at least gives you some ideas. Jan