Pomorza

Thanks mates What confuses me is that it just started out of the blue. I mean if I had a loose strut mount, or loose bolts or loose gland nut (which is tight also) I would think this noise would have been on going for a while now, as its been 2+ years. I've tried shaking the crap out of the car while it was on the ground to reproduce the sound (lifing it up and down side to side etc). With no luck. I'll jack the back end up again today before I go on my trip and make sure all is tight. The sound, sounds more like the hatch is loose or something and no a suspension issue. I'll see what I can find. Thanks Jan

Oiluj Checked the torque on all the bolts on the inside, both the mounting bolts (25 lb ft) and the strut lock nut (the big arse one 60 lb ft). Nothing still there. Check the exhaust by moving it every direction I could think of, nothing. I put the Z on the jack again (lifted it by the diffy) and moved the left tire and wheel around in every manner I could think of. I've never had a car with struts, could the shock be completely dead already? I mean I'm pretty hard on my suspension but 15k is pretty low on shocks isn't it? Is it safe to drive it like this? I mean I have to drive like 200 miles tomorrow for a wedding, its not going to kill something is it? Thanks Jan

Hello all Yesterday evening my Z began making an increadibly loud and very annoying rattling noise from the rear of the car. I can't remember exactly what time it began but it has, for what I can tell, become worse. The noise, the best I can describe, sounds like, well if you left the door ajar and it was rattling. It does it, really randomly, but when the road is uneven and bumpy the noise is always there. I've jack the back of the car up and shook, moved and really done anything and everything to get the noise to occur but nothing. I took the rear pannel off to discover that the antenna was, well just hanging there and in pieces. I fixed this thinking it was the noise but nope. I've jumped on the car and pushed the car up in an attempt to get the noise to occur but still nothing. I have noticed that the rear left - the area where the noise is coming from - tire does drop a bit further down then the right side. I've looked at the strut mount from both the top and felt it on the side, its still there for what I can tell and in one piece. Does anyone have ANY ideas what this can be? Blown shock? Any ideas. I run eibach lowering spring all around and tociko blues. I did the suspension two and a half and 15,000 miles ago. Thanks guys Jan

Leon, I don't disagree that doing ignition is one of the best things about this set up but I didn't get megasquirt for that reason. A few months before I got MS the stock EFI I had developed a lovely issue of dying while driving - turned out one of the wires to the AFM had a short causing the computer to loose connection from it and, well dying. Instead of spending countless hours and money I probably didn't have I decided that swapping over to this system would be the simplest answer (other then carbs, and why would I go back in technology). I'm sure I can get way more power and way more MPG's out of her if I went all out and did spark maps. Jan

Lads I run Megasquirt on my Z. Love the set up. It's not difficult to set up nor tune if you don't go overboard, I mean it only needs three sensors - or at least that's what I'm running - and it runs just perfect. I've been running it for about a year and a half now. I tried to keep it as stock looking as possible, I will eventually run ITB's when the time and money comes. Here's a pic of how it looks now. Fastwoman, as much as it seems its a rather simple install. I still run a dizzy so I don't have to deal with spark maps and curves. I know I'm not getting the most out of the power but I perfer to run it like that as its simpler. If you all have questions let me know. https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/527276_10152006457680347_412958556_n.jpg

Daniel That, as Zed Head described, is the crankcase ventalation tube. Basically its used to get blowby and other gasses out of the, well crankcase. The milkey substance you were speaking could be a mixture of oil and water (or coolant). This does not mean that your head gasket is blown. As described in a few topics recently, oil can absorb water, I believe up to ~1%. Basically when your car cools water can condence in the engine and then fall into the oil. This water can mix with said oil and turn it milkey. Usually you get rid of said water when you run the engine to operating temperature. That being said, what motor/car/year are you driving? When was the oil last changed? When was the car last run? Hope that helps Jan

What did you use to texture the dash with?

djwarner, that is very well put. Many people overlook this fact and run thier car as cold as possible believing it will unlock some "wasted" horsepower. I've known people that run no thermostat at all, aluminum radiators and dual fans in turn keeping their car well below the 185 degree mark. I've check my block with a laser temperature reader a few times in the past to esnure that it warms up enough. Anyhow, sorry for the thread jacking, just wanted to point that out. But based on what everyone here has said I think Burl has enough information to work out any issue(s) he may have. In my honest opinion as long as the car doesn't go over 200 F you should be fine. Jan

Burl, Based on that it seems that the gauge maybe off. If I remember correctly, the coolant flows from the bottom of the radiator to the through the engine and out of the top, so the water at the top of the radiator should be the hottes - please correct me if I'm wrong. If you're worried about it still you could flush the radiator and see if anything comes out. When I first bought my Z and flushed the motor/radiator it was rather rusty and disgusting. I live in Tucson and in the summer it normally get well above 100 degrees here and is rather dry as hell. As I expressed in the last post, I personally don't enjoy when the Z runs about 200 degrees. Its my personal preference nothing more. As 280~master posted I think your gauge might be out of wack, though your thermostat might be a bit hot for such weather. Hope that helps Jan

If you're worried about the car overheating, get the car to operating temperature and place a thermometer in the radiator (carefully obviously). I measured mine this way when I installed the new thermostat (160 degree). I personally don't like when the car nears 200 degress but that's just my personal preference.

:-) Yes engineers are kind of known for over complicating thing, I've been guilty of that. My whole point here, as from the beginning, is will I require replacing the sending unit or would it be possible to use the stock one. Thanks Jan

Wade That is a lovely explanation. Being an engineer myself - just graduated with a degree in Indsutrial engineering - I understand the need to correct readings based on ACTUAL data and not relative date. I run megasquirt on my car and thus I can read the temperature using my laptop and I've confirmed it multiple times that the temp reading on the computer (which usually sits at about 170) is accurate. (I used a group of thermometers I placed in the radiator to test temps). This past year I worked a lot with microprocessors and other electrical components and understand the need for signal smoothing and signal conditionining. I spent quite a few nights trying to make a signal equal the range I needed As for fuel gauges and others, my fuel gauge works alright, usually when it sits at E I have about a gallon or so left in the tank so its actually a useful gauge. I'm just planning on updating the daul guages to somethig more modern that tells me a bit more. For example, the temp gauge just has to readings 120 and 250. While this is lovely, knowing where in this range it sits is a bit more useful. (The gauges I wish to buy have marks every 20 degrees roughly temp wise). When I do get around to purchasing the gauges I will correct them to the range needed. I'm not just going to throw them in there and hope they work. For what Mr. SteveJ says and the book the range of the sending unit is 10-80 ohms, the guage is 0-90 ohms. Clearly there's a difference, small as it is, it would affect the readings the guage will show. I'm sure it would be the same for the temp sensor and oil pressure. Its a matter of getting the right measurements into the gauge to get the right readings on the gauge. Thank for the help mates Jan

Thank you my good sir,

Hello all I'm planning on updating the gauges in my Z to something more modern and a bit more relaible. Does anyone know the resistance range of the fuel sending unit? I know I can replace them with something new but if I could make the stock one work it would mean less work. Thanks mates Jan

Guys and gals Thank you guys for all the suggestions. This weekend I pulled all the plugs out one by one and examined them. All but one had an orange color to them (#1 was white). The #4 plug had a lot of carbon deposit on it which I cleaned up using wire brush. Rechecked all the gaps. I also richened the mixture since it was running lean - based on my wideband readings. Started the car up and it runs like a top. Thanks again Jan

Thanks for the reply guys, Wade: Wouldn't a shot ring (or rings) cause smoke of some sort as they aren't sealed correctly?

Hell all This past morning I went out to start the Z. Outside temp was about 90 - its Arizona its hot. Car started fine but it runs on five cylinders for the first 30 or so seconds and then is fine. Anyone have any ideas before I go head long into figuring this out? It did it once more when I started it this past afternoon - after sitting for ~7 hours. Again cleared up after a few seconds. Doens't seem to lack power. Thanks Jan

Virto I use ngk bpr6es on my Z. They seem to run just fine. I've used NGK's since I got the car back in 09' and haven't had an issue. I also opted to use NGK wires I got off amazon a few months back, blues ones. They work quite well. For what I understand from a few sites I've been on recently the -11 type plugs are for better emissions purposes more than anything else. I don't use them personally but I don't think it'll hurt. Hope that helps Jan

Dltalfa The oil is used to cool the shocks and add lubrication or so I've been told. While its not needed - as John expressed - if you have the whole assemblies out just fill them up. I used 10W30 oil and it works just fine.

A bit of an update. Was driving the Z around today. The noise happens only at ~3k. If I hold it at 3k it will make the noise but its pretty much has to be dead on the perfect RPM to get the said BUZZ. I'm thinking something might of come lose on the exhaust - maybe one of the heat sheilds. One of my exhuast liners was loose when I redid the manifold gasket, I'm hoping this didn't fall in somehow. Will take a nice long look on Saturday. Thanks Jan

Lads This past weekend I did an oil change as well as run about 1/3 of a can of seafoam through the intake - smoked like an old ocean liner. Anyhow since then I've been hearing this odd BUZZ everytime I shift above 3k. It does it on deceleration only and only when the car is at temperature. Any ideas? Car doesn't seem to be running any worse. No coolant in oil or vise versa. Thanks Jan

Mates Store sells two different clutches one that's for the 225mm flywheel and the other for the 240mm one (or so says their computer). I'm assuming the bigger clutch would go with the 2+2 correct? Just making sure before I fork over cash. Thanks Jan

Mates I've decided to replace the clutch in my Z, as well shifting is becoming a bit tricky sometimes and I'm almost postive it slipped last evening. Question is this, would getting a stage one (Exedy) clutch be worth it. I'm don't do any racing of anykind - as well I only have one car and I don't need to break something - but I do have a lead foot. Opinions, suggestions are welcome Secondly, since I'm doing a clutch I decied that I might as well get the old flywheel machined. What is the best/easiest way to remove the flywheel without using air tools - as I don't have any? Thank Jan

Thank you guys for the answer. I'll look into all of it this weekend. Thanks again Jan

Gland nuts? Care to elaborate where/what this is? Thanks