Pomorza

Hello all So the lines that go to the tank into the vapor canister (or whatever that is called) in the back of my 280z are all broken in half (literally from age and heat) and leaking all over the place. I took it to my mechanic as, well I don't feel like being covered in fuel in 90 degree weather but they're having a hell of a time trying to get hoses. So does anyone know where to source these hoses or what hoses can be used or what to do? I saw the thread about doing this in a 240 but I'm not sure if that applies to 280s. Thanks Jan

Fastwoman I've had the thermostat housing off before (about 4 months ago) when I was doing my exhaust gasket. The bolts all came out nice and clean but there was no gasket on the block, just a load of red silicone. I though (wrongly) that I can just put it back and all would be well but clearly not. I'm not all that worried about the bolt(s) breaking since I had them out before, I'm worried that I won't be able to find the gasket that goes on the block, as it seems to be a mystery to all the auto part store guys. ("yes the gasket that goes on the block, not the one on the thermostat...") Thanks greatly Jan

Hey all This past weekend I noticed that my theromstat housing is leaking from where it mates to the block. (by notice I mean there was sizzling coolant sitting on the head near it). Does this area come with a gasket and if so where can one find one. Thanks all Jan

Did you look into the TPS? An check the fuel pressure. Jan

Hello all So cruising the junkyard recently I found a fresh air duct (the ones in the front of the Z that goes into the fender). Well I pulled it off and placed it in the Z this morning. Here's a question though. Exactly what does this thing do and how does one control its movements? Its kind of a bad idea to install things before you know what they do but hell it's held on by a bold so. Thanks Jan

Cozye, I run MS I with a MAP sensor and the wideband. It makes tuning a lot easier when you know what your engine is actually doing. rcb280z. I had a friend of mine build me the box (MS) and help me with the wiring. All you need is the wiring harness and the injector module (er, the large fuse like thing near the clutch master, big silver thing). I'm not sure what laws California has but its sad you can't use it. IMHO its far more efficient then the 70's system will ever be. Mike if your dead set on getting injection there are a lot of alternatives, MS is just one. As Arne has said there are a few others. As I stated, the only problem with MS that a lot of people have is they build the system and then get stuck on the tuning. Like everything else its easy if you know what you're doing or have done your homework on what needs to be done. On side note, I took a trip today to solve a bit of a family issue. Drove a total of 260 miles averaging roughly 80mph. From what my odometer tells me I averaged about 23 mpg. My tune isn't really set for "efficiency" but that's not to bad is it? If you guys need anymore info let me know I'll happily help. Jan

Is that aimed at me? It runs amazing and that's not an understatement. I don't have dyno results but from the "feel of my seat" dyno I definitely have more power (or at least the power I'm supposed to have) at all RMPs. The throttle response is better and fuel economy is up a tad, though I think I have a case of lead foot now. :-). Jan

Mike, As everyone here as pointed out the stock EFI system is, well old and out of date. It was a great feature of the 70's but its just not up to par with everything out on the market. I recently did a megasquirt (MS) upgrade on my Z as my old EFI system was leaning out and stalling and I just wasn't going to deal with trying to fix it anymore. The install took about two days (roughly 14 hours or so but I was taking my time). The only warning I have is do your homework before getting it. The install is simple enough the tuning is where people have issues. MS can control pretty much everything on the engine from injectors to the timing, its just a matter of how far you want to go. I just have it controlling the injection for now. Here is how my engine bay looks now (its about 80% complete. I "tried" to make the wiring look stock like, it came out ok in my opinion). Jan

That's actually a really cool idea. I'd buy it if I wasn't running a wide band in my car already...

I have three wires, one is blue/yellow, one is blackish and the other is yellow. They all go to a connector which is covered in a nice heavy amount of dirt.

Hello all Last night I'm cruising down the road at a nice 40mph stretch of road. Since no one is around (and it's rather late) I step on it a bit and let the motor breath. Long and behold I hit a pothole at about 50. Wasn't a deep one, just a nice "bump" in the road. Well sure enough the fuel light comes one, nice bright RED light at night was just lovely. Fuel gauge says half full but for insurance I stop and fill up. 8.45 gallons go in (roughly half a tank). Turn the car back on light is still on. So question of the day, how exactly does the light work, is it a grounding circuit like on old fords or is it a wire lead with voltage like a few others? I haven't been under the car as I didn't get home till late and haven't had time today (was doing brakes on a 620). Any suggestions welcome Jan

tbeaty4, For what I remember 280z's are supposed to have a fuel cut at high RPMs when the throttle is released. That is, say you're at 4500rpm and release the throttle the injections is supposed to stop injecting fuel. The general principle of this is simple, since you're decelerating your engine doesn't need fuel as there is little if any load. If you are injecting fuel some of it won't burn and thus you get said backfiring. Hope that helps Jan

Here's what happens. If I turn the reset knob the numbers all move perfectly fine (1111,2222,3333....9999 and then back to 0000) but when I let it run it'll go for a bit and get stuck again. So I reset the numbers again and so on and so forth. I'll make sure that cable is in there nice and tight. for reference the knob is a pia to turn, I have a blister on my left thumb from doing it so much.

Ill take a look this weekend Zed. I'll be down there anyway might as well

Hello all A few past weekends ago I took a nice long drive up to Phoenix for a Datsun meet. On the way there I noticed that my trip odometer was not really rolling over, it was stuck. Since I don't really use it I though whatever. Well after sometime I noticed that the normal odometer wasn't working either. So I reset the trip odometer and long and behold both worked fine for a while. The trip one got stuck again and...well you get the idea. So here's the question. What exactly can I do to fix the odometer(s). The trip one gets stuck when it rolls over from 9 to 0 and I have to reset it almost daily when I drive. (I like knowing my mileage). Any help would be great. Jan

Captain obvious, When you say you have low oil pressure is that at the gauge (in car) or did you varify that using a mechanical gauge? Z gauges are notorious for not being all that accurate. I've seen Z car oil gauges read 0 when they had 35 psi. As for the build date it should be on the drivers side info plate. I should read something like 1/76 (mine) or something. On a random note, my Z was built 1/76 and has an internally oiled cam. Not sure if its the original head (as I'm not sure of anything on the car) but it is an N47 head. Jan

Zed Head, I believe I am indeed using the E12-80 module yes. By not work I mean, until it reaches say 1600 rpm the tach just sits at 0 or as you say bounces. Where is this said ignition module?

Hello guys, This past weekend, among other things, I replaced my stock 76 distributor and coil with one from an 81 ZX. The Z runs a bit better but the tach refuses to work under 1500 RPM. For what I remember don't I have to add a resistor or something to make the tach work properly? Thanks greatly Jan

It does not toggle, always wondered why. I press on the glass and nothing happens. I'll clean it this weekend and see what happens.

How does one exactly check that wiring in the door jam, does it unscrew or something?

Hello all The dome light in my Z recently stopped working. I checked all the fuses (all but the radio one is fine, I don't own a radio so, its not needed). I check the wire connection to the light and they're all clean and nice. I replaced the bulb and nothing, no light, nada. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks Jan

The car runs perfectly fine when its hot, it actually richened up a bit. I took it up and down Mt. Lemon here in Tucson last night the temps up there was in the low to mid 40's car drove great. I'll pull a vac line and see if it helps. Thanks Jan

Cozye, the water temp sensor is also new, I went ahead and replaced all three sensors while I did the thermotime switch. Does the intake temp sensor have anything to do with the cold start?

Pressure at the line between the filter and the fuel rail is the same it has always been (~37psi) and if it was a fuel problem wouldn't it persist the entire time, not just when the car is started? It hasn't changed since I installed the new pump four months ago. The AAR is not even a year old. The short sounds like it might be an issue, how would one check this?

Hello guys, In the past couple of days (since it has become cold here) my Z is having a hell of a time starting, that is, it cranks for a long as hell time, (i usually do 3-5 second bursts, takes a few of these to get it done) when it finally does it runs at really low RPMs and when I try to accelerate I get a lean condition and prefiring (backfiring in the intake). Things I have done 1. New cold start valve from autoparts store (green stripped one, not sure if that tell anyone anything) 2. New Thermotime switch (along with the temp sensors) 3. Cleaned all terminals. Any ideas? Could I have a defective CSV? Does the AFM do anything in the starting procedure? I'm at a wits end here and this is killing my battery. It use to work perfectly fine in the cold, start on the second crank and rev to 1.5k until the car it temp. Now it just sits at idle (~1000) and I have to sit there for a good couple of minutes before I can drive the thing without leaning the hell out of it. All six injectors are new, along with the lines, regulator pump and really anything you can name fuel related. Thanks Jan