Pomorza

Sorry guys for the confusion. What I need is what John has photographed, wiper arms. Sorry for being so confusing...I apologize. Thanks Jan P.S Johnny'O how much are you asking for said wiper arms?

I know this is about 240's but for question one and even part two go http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ and scroll down to the transmission section and read that till you reach the section about the rear ends. Found that site really informative when I first started on my Z. Hope it help Jan

I am talking about the windshield wiper arms. The actual thing that bolts to the motor(s) and hold the wire to the window. I have one. Can you guys provide pictures of the arms you guys have. Thanks Jan

Just wondering if you got it to work. How exactly is it wired? Mine is in just as bad shape as yours. Please advise. Jan

Here is a pic of the carbon canister I have. It looks nothing on the bottom like you showed webdawg1. The first two pictures show the actual canister and the last is the part I broke. What are the dangers of driving with the dist vac line unplugged as the gluing job didn't work. I'm thinking that this isn't the right canister for this car. It would explain the fuel smell when driving. Are carbon canisters in the Z's interchangeable with ZX or anything else? Thanks Jan

Yes I referring to the very small one that goes to the dist vc. Broke it completely off. Glued it on but the glue isn't holding all that well. Jan

Hello guys Did a search on this but didn't find my exact problem. Yesterday afternoon I was replacing my alternator belt. While removing the carbon canister I happened to hit it against the fender wall and knocked off the little nipple that holds the vac line that goes to the distributor. I tried gluing it back on but it hasn't really worked. 1. Does anyone know where I can get just the top piece. In the manual its called the diaphram cover. 2. Someplace I've read that the Carbon Canister from a Geo could be used is this true? 3. The carbon canister I have seems very odd as there is a large tube coming from the bottom. Is this normal? Thanks all Jan P.S Please don't advise me to remove it. I can't as it is an emissions requirement.

Hello all As I seem to keep adding threads to this forum I decided that my Z should probably have its own thread to save you all space. If anyone has any objections to this let me know. First off I've been having a periodic idle problem when hot. Last night I drove up to my corner walmart to pick up food. Was in the store five minutes. Came out, put everything back in and was on my way. Started my Z and she had a bad idle, with backfiring when I gave it gas. This lasted all of about two minutes. Afterwords she drove fine, with no problems. I've search this on the site and found that alot of you are saying it maybe the temperature sensor. Is it the thing photographed below? I found this earlier today while as I was clean and refilling my diffy with some Redline Gear oil. Can anyone tell me how many wires go to said sensor? Secondly my Z doesn't idle at all when cold. I mean it does but not like it should. In all other cars i've had when the car is cold it will idle higher on the RPM range to get the engine warm. Mine does not do this. When cold it idles at 800 RMP. When hot roughly 1000. Does that sensor have anything to do with it? Thank Jan

It has nothing to do with weight reduction. To begin with the A/C system on the car isn't work. It needs to be recharged and fixed as it keeps blowing the fuse. The cost to fix is pretty high also. Secondly, I've never really used A/C in either of the cars I've owned. I just never saw the purpose of it if I can just open the window. Heat really doesn't bother me at all. Jan

Hey guys. What is involved with replacing the heater core? Can it be done without removing the dash. At the moment my heater core is disconnected from the rest of the system as it was "leaking" according to the previous owner. I want to replace it and put in a new one as I need heat in the winter. Any tips/trick? Secondly I have A/C in the car but am in the process of removing it. Are there differences in the heater cores of car with/without AC? Thanks Jan

I've seen this asked on another site, (or maybe this one) but cannot locate it for the life of me. About three weeks ago I changed my upper and lower hoses on the radiator, did a flush and added new fluid to the radiator and then filled the reservoir up. Checked it a couple days later and the reservoir was low. Two days later found that one of the hose clamps was leaking. Fixed that and thought the problem to be gone. Today I find that the reservoir is empty. The radiator is full of fluid. I haven't had any smoking and the oil looks greatmstill nice and brownish tan and smells like oil. The oil cap and the cam lobe that can be seen inside is also in great shape. What's going in? Is there STILL air in my system three weeks later? I don't drive the car much but I would think by now it would have of emptied. I don't see any leaks around the car or at the hoses. Any idea?

Does anyone know where one could find a windshield wiper handle? By handle I mean the thing that holds the wiper and connects to the motor. The one that I have broke today due to, well being run over by a Jeep, so all I have is the driver's side. Thanks Jan

Thanks Bob I did do as advised and checked the air path. I turned on the defrost and found that air comes out of the hole. On the other side there is a pipe but it doesn't go all the way up to the window. Does anyone know where i can get this tubing or what its called? I have tried to call and email the other owner asking him about what is up with a number of problems I've found, (like the horn not working) but have not been replied to. As for the hole. Its sealed very well and I'm not really worried about it. In a few years I'll sand blast the car and have it fixed with a welder. Thanks Jan

Hey guys Took pictures of the car earlier. The pictures have descriptions so I'll leave you to them. If you have problems reading I'll explicate them better. Jan

Thanks guys for calming me down. First off the wires was for the speakers that are no longer in the car. I know this as I don't have a radio and the wire went to all the cluster of wires associated with the radio. As I don't wish to have a radio I'm removing them. Secondly. The car HAD A/C. I'm in the process of removing it all as I don't really need it IMO. Thirdly. I will take a picture of said hole later in the day and post it. I'll be hard to see as I sealed it but I didn't really think of the whole A/C drain idea. Could be a possibility. I'm pretty positive the previous owner knew about the hole as he redid all the carpeting in the car. Unless he's completely blind he could have seen a white piece of cardboard. I've had the night to think this over and I'm not as stressed as before. The car is 34 years old so I shouldn't be amazed at what I find. I was just having one of those days where I needed to rant about people....sorry. Jan

Thanks guys. I may have been a bit carried away with the whole rant there. I've been under a bit of stress from school so finding the whole kind of ruined my day. The car does run and it runs great. The hole I did find was located on the corner of the transmission tunnel right before the dash starts. I filled it in for now but when I money comes I'll fix it more properly. (by corner I mean where it angles off downward.) I'm not really positive if there is rust on it or not. From the looks of it there is non. I did poke at the metal around the hole and it seems pretty solid. I do believe the rubber mat I was discussing is the tar mat. Its pretty much throughout the entire car for what I can tell. Its fairly hard to get off also. I'm just a bit pissed at the previous owner. I've always believed that telling the truth is a big thing, so when I get lied to I get a bit agitated. Thanks again guys Jan

To begin with I'm going to state that I am 22 years old and fairly naive. I bought a 1976 280z from a guy in central Arizona. When buying the car I asked him multiple times is there any problems with the car. Numerous times he insisted the car is ready to be sold and has no problem. When I bought the car it looked great. There is only one rust spot on the whole thing and it looks really nice for its age. Earlier today I found a random wire hanging under my dash. It came from the radio, so I decided just to cut the dam thing. While I was under there I find that there is a piece of cardboard box on the floor. I pull the thing off and come to find there is a quarter sized hole under it. WTF?:mad: So I finished off what I was doing and grabbed some rubber glue/sealer. Filled the whole and called it a day. (I know its not exactly the best thing to do but I'm short on funds). At this point I'm really afraid of what else I could find in the car that is wrong. The rear section of the car is solid. I've pulled the carpet off and inspected it. There is a weird rubber thing atop the metal but I think that it came with the car? I've check the passenger side floor board and it looks solid also. (also has rubber stuff on it). I've been under the car five times now and haven't found anything really damaging. The frame rails are a bit dented from a jack that was placed in the wrong place but other than that its solid. Anyone have any advise here. Was I totally scammed here but someone trying to get rid of a headache? I'm really annoyed at the moment (as one could tell). I love the car but if the thing is going to fall part is there a reason to even own it? Sorry for the rant Jan

Thanks for the quick comeback. I went out and started poking at the rust with my finger. I picked off some of the loose rust and found that the metal underneath is soft, feels like a sponge or ball of yarn. Its hard to describe its not hard like metal should be. Any ideas on this one? I have lifted the carpeting from the passenger side to check for rust there. The only significant area is where the wire harness goes through the fire wall. Its not bad but its there. Thanks again Jan

Hello To make a long story really short. I purchased a "rust free" 1976 280z from a guy up in Phoenix about six weeks ago. I love the car but upon further inspection the day I bought it I found that it has a rust area under battery tray. I though I was looking at horrid rust but when I took the battery out I found nothing there. (minor surface rust that I sanded off). So I would like your guys opinion on this rust situation. What is the best move on my part? I've been told I can clean it up and cover it with some fiber glass but that would be a temporary fix. I have a friend that knows how to weld fairly well but he no longer owns a welder. Take a look a the pictured and let me know your opinion. Jan pictures 1. Rust area, passenger side 2. another view of said rust 3. Battery tray area.

:stupid: sorry completely forgot that there was a search on this site. I apologize...it could be all the fumes.. Jan

Well come to find the sound is still there but is only about 1/2 as loud. I'm pretty positive its the injectors now as the sound happens in tune with the vibration of the fuel rail. That is, when the fuel rail "ticks" the noise occurs. Thanks guys for all the help Jan

Hello guys. Ok so I'm experiencing the dreaded exhaust fume problem in my Z. Here's the full story so I can get your opinion. First off I drive with my windows open, I don't believe in using A/C for the fact that sports cars don't need it. When the Z is cold I get the smell of the car running rich...as it should because its cold. When it heats up I get the smell of exhaust. It isn't coming from the cooling vents as I've checked that earlier. (and mine doesn't really work very well anyway). I've replaced all the door weather stripping with new ones about two weeks ago. The rear hatch has a new exterior weather stripping. It is a bit larger than the original so it could have a leak there. (i'm thinking of just going back to the original one. The tank was fixed about two days ago as it was leaking. I've read here about common problems on 240z, but I'm not sure if this also works on my 280. Another common issue is if I let off the throttle momentarily and then accelerate I get a horrible smell of gasoline. Is this common? My Z does have a small rear wing, (this one I'm pretty sure). The exhaust tip sticks out just a tad bit past the rear bumper (which is also a body kit). Any tips or thoughts guys? Thanks Jan

Hello all So about a month ago I bought my first Z, a 1976 280z. The thing is nearly restored, though poorly but is in really great shape for its age. From the day I bought the car I've had a problem with a intermittent ticking noise when the car had warmed up. My first thought was...ok cool valves need adjustment that's all and set them to the proper specs. Long and behold the ticking noise didn't go away :mad:. So I began to search up and down on the car desperate to solve my problem In the process I found that my tank was cracked. (great). Took the dam thing off and sent it away to get it fixed by a company here in Tucson. While the car was sitting idle I though..hell might as well take a look at the car maybe I'll find the problem. About ten minutes into the "searching" I grab one of the manifold bolts and find that I can turn it with my hand ( shouldn't be able to do that). So I go around and begin to check all the bolts. Come to find that nearly all of them are not tightened at all. So pulled out the trusty Craftsman torque wrench and torqued them all down to specs and called it a day. Tank came back the next day so I replaced it. Started the car and took it on a nice long trip around town. Long and behold the ticking noise is nowhere to be found. I've come to the conclusion that my problem all stemmed from the multiple loose manifold bolts. Hope this helps anyone struggling with the same problem Jan

Ok. Fist off as suggested above take a look at your catalytic converter. You have to have one in Arizona to pass emissions. What is your reading at idle? What is your timing set to? Did you adjust the a/f ratio properly? Jan

Wondering if any one has used these on a 280z. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7BSA1/50-1610 I have a 1976 and I'm thinking that the engine bay is running hot and I would like to get it cool down a bit. Jan