Pomorza

Cool. I'll do that tomoorow.

Hey mates If I updated my Z to a ZX dizzy - which I have done - can I completely remove the stock ignition box located on the kick pannel? I'm just making 100000% sure. Thanks Jan

Hey guys This afternoon I went to hang out with a good friend of mine. Parked the car and all was good. Came back to the car and found that the seat belt light - red - was on and the buzzer would make noise until I put my seatbelt on. Car started and drove just fine but the light never came off and no matter what I did - including turning the car off - the buzzer will be on with the seat belt off. Anyone have ideas on how this can be fixed? Thanks Jan

To answer above questions I was experimenting to see if a hotter plug would make a difference in my Z. I ran the BPR5ES's for about nine months ago to see if there would be a noticable difference in how the car acted and drove. As for running rich, I have an air/fuel ratio gauge in my Z - in the place of the clock - and during idle it would sit at 11.4 when cold and 12.2 when warm. I don't like it that rich as its bad for too many things - my cat especially. I figured that it was due to the orange deposits on the plugs. Thanks Jan

Hey mates This past evening I changed the plugs out in my Z as she was running oddly rich and rough. This is what I found. Can someone elaborate on why my plugs are orange? They are a bit cooler (5 on the heat range) but I'm wondering. Thanks Jan

Mates I know this has been discussed before but I can't for the life of me find the thread it was on. Is there anything wrong with running BPR6ES in Zs? Thanks Jan

Phil Yes it is possible that air got into your system due to non use. I would start by changing and bleeding the system and seeing what happens. My friends 240Z sat for nearly a decade with a brand new master and slave (he did it right before he put it in storage) and when he went to move it the other day he had no pedal at all. On a related note, if you let your car sit so long I would probably look into changing the gasoline and cleaning the lines - unless you used some sort of gas storage addative. Modern fuel has a tendancy of "splitting" and getting all sorts of gunk everywhere (ethanol fuel anyway). Check the oil and the radiator fluid also, they might need a change. Hope that helps Jan

Interesting update So this is what I've noticed. The said rattle noise occurs during two occasions. It will occur when I first start the car, there will be a bit of a rattle from the top end for a few moments. Then the noise will only occur on decel of the motor, as in, if I rev it to say 3500 and let the throttle go it will rattel at around 1800 rpm. Thanks Jan

Seems to be above 0 on the gauge. Haven't check with a mechanical guage

Patcon Its noise for the first few minutes after start up - I would say about 10 minutes tops. It will do it for a week or two, as in be noisy, and then stop completely as if nothing ever happened. Jan

Guys Ever since I bought my Z in 2009, it seems that everytime I do an oil change the car will be noisy for the first week or so afterwards. By noisy I mean I can hear the chain rattle at idle and when I let off the throttle. I originally thought it was the chain and replaced it - about two years ago - but it didn't really change anything. I'm going to take the front cover off in the future to replace it, but I wondering if anyone has any ideas of what this could be and why it does it after oil changed. Thanks Jan

I had the heater closed. I'll keep you guys updated.

Captain Zeros The fan will move about 1/3 of a turn when the car is off and cold. When the car is hot and off it will maybe move a blade or two over before stopping. Wouldn't say it was "seized" but its pretty hard to move. I didn't drain the system recently but I could have a bubble in there from the heater core maybe, it has a small leak which could cause air to enter I guess. Thanks Jan

Update: Ran both tests today. Took the car from my house up to my brothers (~3 miles way) to get the car to operating temperature. Arrived at my brother's place and the Z sat at 173. Let it idle for about 10 minutes and checked temperature again was now at 177. Step one, check the fan. Took a new paper, rolled it into a tube and attempted to stop fan. Fan nearly took newspaper AND my arm with it, so that would be a pass. Turned car off. Step 2. Tested pressure, hooked up pressure tester, took it up to 13 psi (per rating of cap) and check for leaks. Pressure kept steady at ~13 for about 15 minutes while I checked around. Step 3. Checked flow of radiator. Took off pressure tester and started the Z. Temp after sitting was 194. Two things I noticed. 1. The flow was amazing, the coolant was moving so fast from one side of the radiator to the other that it nearly came out of the damn radiator. Secondly the fan was ON, as it sounded like I had a messerschmitt sitting under my hood. Step 4. Drove car back home. After placing everything back to where it needed to be I closed the hood and drove back home. Even in the 100+ degree heat of Tucson the temp never exceeded 175. The fan was also on most of the drive home - as I could hear it. So, it seems that everything checks out in my cooling systems. I have the suspicion, that my fan wasn't on the day it over heated as it didn't seem that loud for what I remember. I don't know exactly how these fail - if its a gradual loss of function or if it can fail and not fail. Would like to hear your opinions. Also the coolant is coolant, nice and GREEN. The oil is still oil, dirty and in need of a change but its oil. Thanks Jan

Update: Ran both tests today. Took the car from my house up to my brothers (~3 miles way) to get the car to operating temperature. Arrived at my brother's place and the Z sat at 173. Let it idle for about 10 minutes and checked temperature again was now at 177. Step one, check the fan. Took a new paper, rolled it into a tube and attempted to stop fan. Fan nearly took newspaper AND my arm with it, so that would be a pass. Turned car off. Step 2. Tested pressure, hooked up pressure tester, took it up to 13 psi (per rating of cap) and check for leaks. Pressure kept steady at ~13 for about 15 minutes while I checked around. Step 3. Checked flow of radiator. Took off pressure tester and started the Z. Temp after sitting was 194. Two things I noticed. 1. The flow was amazing, the coolant was moving so fast from one side of the radiator to the other that it nearly came out of the damn radiator. Secondly the fan was ON, as it sounded like I had a messerschmitt sitting under my hood. Step 4. Drove car back home. After placing everything back to where it needed to be I closed the hood and drove back home. Even in the 100+ degree heat of Tucson the temp never exceeded 175. The fan was also on most of the drive home - as I could hear it. So, it seems that everything checks out in my cooling systems. I have the suspicion, that my fan wasn't on the day it over heated as it didn't seem that loud for what I remember. I don't know exactly how these fail - if its a gradual loss of function or if it can fail and not fail. Would like to hear your opinions. Thanks Jan

Thanks guys I'm pretty sure my system won't be "air" tight as the front cover has a lot of silicone where the waterpump is - it was eaten away by electrolysis. Ill check both tomorrow Thanks Jan

Thank lads I will confirm the diagnosis later this week. When the car is cold there is a bit of resistance in the fan, haven't tested it at operating temp just yet. I do have a question though, should I replace the stock clutch with a new one (which is roughly $50) or spend slightly more and get a dual speed electric fan? The one(s) I've looked at have a 1500 cfm rating on high, I don't know how that compares with a stock Z fan so suggestions are welcome. Thanks Jan

Guys This weekend was supposed to be wonderful. A group of friends and myself were going to meet up at a lake and have a wonderful camping trip. Well as expected there were issues from the start. On the way to said lake I forgot some things at home and decided to head back. As I drive into my neighborhood I notice my temp gauge is not where its normally supposed to be, to be exact its a notch or so past the midway point, it normally runs at like 1/3. Freakout I pull into the spot and open the pressure relief on the radiator cap - yes I know you're not supposed to do it I wasn't in the right state of mind - steam comes pouring out for a good five minutes. Stumped I attach my laptop to my computer (I run aftermarket EFI) and see what the temp read;, 208 is what it see. I let the car cool off for a while, refill the radiator and off I go keeping a close eye on the temp. While driving in the city it hovered around 195, way above what I'm used to but nothing that I would worry about. As I get stuck in traffic and move inches per hour the temp begins to rise, when it hits 210 I open the heater valve (don't actually turn the heat on though, no vents) and watch as the temp drops to 198 and stays there for a while until I get moving again. I drive on to the freeway and continue to montior the temp, which slowy drops to the mid 180's at 75ish mph. I pull the pull into a gas station to fill up and make sure the radiator fluid was in good shape. When I reenter the car the temp gauge is roughly in the middle and the temp on my computer reads 219, but drops rapdily once I start the car. From then on it gets interesting. The road to the lake is rather long and windy through southern Arizona. Outside temp sits at around 85 or so. I'm driving the usual 50 or so and the temp, as if nothing had happened before, goes back to where it had run before. The rest of the trip to the lake and back this evening the temp never exceeded 175, dipping in to the low 160's at times. So here's my question. From my knowledge of cars - which isn't amazing but I know a bit - it sound to me as if my fan clutch maybe giving out. I'm not an expert and have reviewed a few posts here about cooling but if I had a pressure issue wouldn't the temp always be high or at least elevated and not fluctuate like it did? I run a 160 degree thermostat, the radiator is about three years old, the water pump is 2 years old. All the hoses are new, there are no leaks and since I added fluid into the overflow it has remained constant. There is no white smoke (or sweet smells) - had the friends drive behind me, the oil is oil (needs a change but is oil) and the coolant is nice and green. Any ideas on what this could be? Sorry for the book Thanks again Jan

Hello all Would anyone possibly have good pictures of the hub assembly off a Z car? I'm trying to compare mine to another. Thanks Jan

Leon In turns its a bit bouncier, as in a bit more rear end happy, understeer was what I was getting at. I drove it rather hard the night I pulled the bar off to see what the changes were. Thanks Jan

Mjr34 I did the same thing Jeff did. Go to the local autoparts store and see which one will fit your applications. I had to modify - er..cut the rubber a bit - on one of mine but its holds it rather well. I didn't get them welded on - I should probably - I just used a U clamp to hold them onto the exhaust, it does the job. Also, how and an exhuast shop not know how to make hangers, I'm confused. Hope that helps Jan

Guys, Thanks for the suggestions. The bushings and end links are all new, I replaced them about a year ago with brand new poly bushings. As for wedling it back on, I've driven without it for about a week now and find that I actually enjoy it. Yes the suspension is a bit bouncier but its all good. Thanks Jan

Guys, Thanks for the suggestions and link. I've painted the rust and the surrounding area with rustoleum paint to keep it from rusting more. As for keeping the car out of water, I live in Arizona where it rains, about six or eight times a year so that isn't an issue. Also, I'm planning on replacing the outer hatch seal as mine is broken at the top. Should I use the one piece one or the three piece, or does it not matter? Thanks Jan

Guys, Thanks for the suggestions and link. I've painted the rust and the surrounding area with rustoleum paint to keep it from rusting more. As for keeping the car out of water, I live in Arizona where it rains, about six or eight times a year so that isn't an issue. Also, I'm planning on replacing the outer hatch seal as mine is broken at the top. Should I use the one piece one or the three piece, or does it not matter? Thanks Jan

That's actually not as bad as I've seen. Still painful to look at but I've seen much worse.