Pomorza

Mjr34 I did the same thing Jeff did. Go to the local autoparts store and see which one will fit your applications. I had to modify - er..cut the rubber a bit - on one of mine but its holds it rather well. I didn't get them welded on - I should probably - I just used a U clamp to hold them onto the exhaust, it does the job. Also, how and an exhuast shop not know how to make hangers, I'm confused. Hope that helps Jan

Guys, Thanks for the suggestions. The bushings and end links are all new, I replaced them about a year ago with brand new poly bushings. As for wedling it back on, I've driven without it for about a week now and find that I actually enjoy it. Yes the suspension is a bit bouncier but its all good. Thanks Jan

Guys, Thanks for the suggestions and link. I've painted the rust and the surrounding area with rustoleum paint to keep it from rusting more. As for keeping the car out of water, I live in Arizona where it rains, about six or eight times a year so that isn't an issue. Also, I'm planning on replacing the outer hatch seal as mine is broken at the top. Should I use the one piece one or the three piece, or does it not matter? Thanks Jan

Guys, Thanks for the suggestions and link. I've painted the rust and the surrounding area with rustoleum paint to keep it from rusting more. As for keeping the car out of water, I live in Arizona where it rains, about six or eight times a year so that isn't an issue. Also, I'm planning on replacing the outer hatch seal as mine is broken at the top. Should I use the one piece one or the three piece, or does it not matter? Thanks Jan

That's actually not as bad as I've seen. Still painful to look at but I've seen much worse.

Thank guys for the suggestions. I've talked to a few people I know and may end up buying the anti-roll bars sold by Beta Motorsports. If anyone has any reasons why not to do that, or any other suggestions let me know. Thanks Jan

So I pulled the sway bar off to see the extent of the damage. The passenger's side mount literally sheared off the car, there's no rust, it literally just came off. Attached is the picture. I'm currently going to run without the sway bar in there rear until I figure out what to do with this. Thanks guys Jan

Well I found the source of the noise, oddly enough by putting something in the trunk. The rear sway bar mount on the passengers side is no longer attached to the car, as in it broke off. I haven't taken a good look at it as it was dark but it looks like it had prior rust on it and just broke off. I don't really know where to go from this point. I don't own nor do I know how to weld. I'm assuming this isn't exactly safe to drive with as it will just do more damage correct? The car doesn't handle any different but the noise(s) it makes are scaring me and I don't want to ruin it more then it is already ruined. Any suggestions would be wonderful. Can one run without said rear sway bar? Thanks

Yes the goal was exactly that to produce cheap cars in the developing world for what I've read. I wouldn't mind if they sold that here though.

Siteunseen This is actually a common question from people. If your fuel system is completely sealed and working correctly - the check ball works no leaks etc - then there should be no hot start issues none zero. Mine has an issue but that's because the check ball in the pump is bad - or stuck - and lets the fuel leak out a bit, leads to some leaning when I restart after a drive. I usually just let the fuel pump run until I stop hearing air enter the fuel tank - it sounds like bubbles. Blue, Is it necessary to make the ends on the fuel rail? Couldn't one just attach a fuel line. I can see the use(s) of it just wondering. Thanks Jan

Blue, What did you use to cut the line with? That actually looks like a really sweet set up, dos it work as planned?

Thank mate I don't actually run a CVS as I have Megasquirt so I just add more fuel through the injectors - much simpler then adding another injector. I have access to a machine shop as long as I can get a hold of the guy that runs it so all the drilling/tappin/threading should be rather simple. To make sure I've listed what I need to do below. Two 1/2 holes on either end of the fuel rail Six 5/16 holes for the six injectors What is the 3/8's for exactly? Sorry want to get this down the best I can before tackling it. Thanks

Thank mate I don't actually run a CVS as I have Megasquirt so I just add more fuel through the injectors - much simpler then adding another injector. I have access to a machine shop as long as I can get a hold of the guy that runs it so all the drilling/tappin/threading should be rather simple. To make sure I've listed what I need to do below. Two 1/2 holes on either end of the fuel rail Six 5/16 holes for the six injectors What is the 3/8's for exactly? Sorry want to get this down the best I can before tackling it. Thanks

Thank mate that does look rather nice Do have a few questions. 1. Did you trim your return line - the metal one - so that it lines up with the firewall? 2. What fuel pressure regulator did you use? 3. How hard was it to build that fuel rail? Did you just used standard brass fittings - from a hardware store - or did you use special fittings? Thanks. I'm only asking as the only thing remaining on my intake that bother's me is the fuel rail everything esle is neatly squared away and tidy after I rewired it. Thanks Jan

Update part three I retorqued all the bolts on the rear suspension this afternoon per measurements given in the FSM. The noise is still there. There is a bit of an interesting development. When someone else is in the car - more weight - the noise is very seldom. The second it is just me the noise happens nearly everytime I hit any sort of bumps. This past weekend I also replaced the rear weatherstripping on the hatch. It's quite sealed. I did find some nasty rust in the process but at least now I know where I have rust and why. Any suggestions would be lovely Thanks Jan

Update part three I retorqued all the bolts on the rear suspension this afternoon per measurements given in the FSM. The noise is still there. There is a bit of an interesting development. When someone else is in the car - more weight - the noise is very seldom. The second it is just me the noise happens nearly everytime I hit any sort of bumps. This past weekend I also replaced the rear weatherstripping on the hatch. It's quite sealed. I did find some nasty rust in the process but at least now I know where I have rust and why. Any suggestions would be lovely Thanks Jan

Blue I remember this fact also, but if someone was to install the chain improperly or due to age the chain had strecthed enough to not be at 0 slack couldn't be possible that enough slack was there that the motion of the remote start caused it to jump a tooth? It's just a thought. Jan

Hey all This afternoon I finally decided to change out the decades old inner weather stripping in my Z. All was going well until I pulled the doom light trim off - the large piece of plastic on the roof support. Once off I found a 1.5" rust section near the drivers side. I pulled all the other pannels of to ensure this was the only area of rust. Pressed around the rust with a screw driver and went right through. After pulling out all the rusted out metal - the whole is about 1" - 2" across - I found where the water had entered. The rear hatch seals - little plastic bucket near the hinges - had broken allowing water into the cabin. Looking at the rust this must have been going on for YEARS. Two questions. First off is this an important part of the car that needs to be fixed immediately or can I let it sit like it is for a while - a year or two? Secondly, does anyone know where on can get new hatch hinge seal? Both of mine are in pretty bad shape. I sealed the hole(s) with some silicone sealer and fixed the outer hatch seal again - I'm going to replace this soon. I'll try to get a photo of the damage and post it here tomorrow. Thanks Jan

Mates I took the time today to do the weather seal on the rear hatch - both the inner and outer. Now the hatch does not shut. Any advice on how to get the thing to shut. The stripping is brand new (out of the bag anyway) from MSA. Thanks Jan

Guys I have a bit of a theory I want to run by you. For what I remember the chain in tensioned by oil pressure using the tensioner. When you're turning your engine with a remote start I don't believe enough pressure builds up to actually put any "tension" on the chain. I say this because the last time I did a valve adjustment on my brother's 620 (L20) I noted that the backside of the chain - being the right hand side looking at the front of the motor - was rather loose and floppy. Its a new chain and I know I installed it correctly as I did it twice (see above post). Could that and the "blue shop towel of doom" caused the chain to skip a tooth or five while you were not paying attention. The other reason I bring this up as last time I started the Z in the winter and revved the motor too quickly - before oil pressure built - there was a nice chain rattle coming from my engine. The chain is new - installed about two years ago and I know I did this right as I took forever doing it - literally took me like 8 hours, took my sweet time. Thanks Jan

Hey mate There's a Z out here in the junkyard in Arizona. If you wish I can see if I can pull them and send them your way. Clearly it won't be cheap but I'm sure it will cost less then getting new ones. Hubs are $30 a piece here with an exchange, so a bit more without. I'm sure there are places that sell them. Let me know Jan

Hmm that interesting How do the valves look on the head? Any of them burned (really lean)? How did the pistons look? Jan

zKars Don't feel all that bad. I was helping my brother out before he went for a long trip in Northern Arizona (he drives a 620). I figured that it be nice to get him a new fan clutch as the old one was stuck on - as in it was on all the time. Well in 620's the waterpump and fan is one piece (yay) so new waterpump sweet. All was going great right until the end, when I tightened the one LONG bolt - you know the one that goes into the block. Took it about 1/16 of a turn to fast and CRACK! Snapped right off. Long story short, three front cover replacements his truck is in running shape. As for chains, I did mine a year after I got my car, as it had an annoying rattle - sounded like the chain (which is still there mind you). The old chain I took out was roughly 2" longer then they new one - and based on records I had my car sat for 5 years and didn't move. So its possible that your friend's chain stretched even more. Jan

Chuck Could you be kind enough to keep us posted on what you find, maybe post some pictures. I would really like to see that cause of that overheating if it is actually the HG. As for redlines, all cars have them and they vary depending on too many factors to list. I personally don't like approaching them - I have a hard limiter at 6500 - but I've seen Z's hit 8k before without an issue. It all depends. Thanks Jan

Chuck A few questions. Is the miss still there? Did you break in your new engine properly? What shape is the radiator (and cap) in? I would start with the obvious, pull the plugs and see what's going on there. If you have a miss that's still there you clearly have an issue of some sort. Just a few suggestions Jan