jwtaylor

There was a thread about a replacement thermostat several years, maybe quite a few years back. It was on this site or it could have been another popular early Z site, I think. I do not have a link to that thread that I can find. They were discussing a replacement thermostat that had the correct temperature range and would mount inline in the line that goes around the rear of the engine. Good luck in you search.

When I did the vent tank delete on my car, may be 10 years ago, I routed the 5/8 hose to the filler neck and the 10mm on the tank front passengers side to the line to the flow guide valve for venting. Seems to work fine without an open line under the car, may need to rethink this though. Now is the time to change it if needed as the Z is torn apart for paint, any thoughts / guidance? My 240Z is a 12/70 build.

Thank you for the translation. I wish I would have learned more when I was there in 1967 to 1968.

This is from my 12/70 build car:

The micro fiche shows the rubber plugs. Although the drawings are not very clear. They are only on the interior body side to keep water out of the inside. The only other plugs that I can think of are on the outside are the rocker panel plugs.

Heat the brake drum between the wheel studs to brake the rust that forms there, you need to get it pretty hot, penetrating oil will help also. Backing off the brake shoes will greatly help if possible. The fins are delicate use a block of wood between the hammer and drum. Lastly keep at it, it took several cycles of heat and banging on them in my case.

Yes a large garage/shop. House only needs to be be big enough for my bed and a kitchen / bath. I would be living primarily in the shop anyway.

My 12/70 240Z number 16502 has the clutch pedal with the "L" offset bracket on it also. The pedal could have been swapped at some point by someone, although the pedals all line up as they should. I never had any problems with it other the the pivot that the pedal hangs from was severely worn.

It would be interesting to see if flipping the magnet over changes the pattern. Maybe it would pull the molten puddle into the weld?

It was common for some states to registrar a vehicle based on the date is was first sold in the time before smog equipment came into use. Smog equipment forced tighter controls on what year a vehicle was/is. This also forced tighter model year designations.

Have you checked the floors under the carpet? Any signs of rust? It is very common for rust to form under the sound deadening tar mats when water sets on the floors. If there is none then just treat the bottom of the pan. On the bottom I think I would wire brush it and then seal it with a rust killer paint, POR15, etc.

I would assume that those battery washers have some kind of acid neutralizer in them, it will be interesting to see how they hold up over time.

I have had a thought on these lines/creases in the rocker. On my car the passenger side floor pan has a slight upward bend in the foot well area. I beat is back down some, so it's not that noticeable now. The though is that maybe when the car banged on whatever caused the dent to the floor pan it may have also caused the lines in the rocker.

The rockers on my 12/70 240Z has those same creases. Very shallow and the full length of the rockers. Filling and blocking gave me this: You can see that it did not take much filler to fill it.

So that EGR mount is on the balance tube between the manifolds on the '73? Why don't you find a balance tube off an earlier 240Z, say 1970 to 1972, and replace it. Those years do not have the EGR valve mount. The adjustment screw above the throttle linkage is a idle adjustment that you only when adjusting carb balance, it's also on the balance tubes from the earlier years.

I am also looking into AC for my early Z. It would be nice if MSA would join the modern world and include some pictures of what they are selling. I would want to see the controls especially. Buying a pig in a poke otherwise.

I have had success on the rebuild of the clutch pedal pivot, and the brake pedal pivot by default as they use the same parts for the pivots. I used ZM 1519-16 Powdered Metal Bronze Sleeve Bearing Metrics from American Sleeve Bearing on line. I had to order 8 each to meet their minimum order amount. "P/M bronze stock items are manufactured of pressed copper and tin powders and impregnated with lubricating oil. They are intended by design to be self lubricating, maintenance free and low cost. Standard material specifications include: SAE 841, ASTMB 438 Grade 1 Type II, MIL-B-5687D Type 1 Grade 1, CuSn 6-6-3, Sint B 50 Standard impregnating oil conforms to SAE 30 specifications but product is also regularly supplied with special oils such as Mil-L-6085, Mil-L-17731." I used 12mm ID x 15mm stainless steel tubing to make new sleeves, 45mm long each. This tubing is not manufactured to a tight tolerance and I had to ream the tubing out to 12mm ID to fit the bolt. The OD of the tubing was also slightly to large to fit into the bearing by a couple of thousands. Chucked the tubes in my wood lathe and reduced the OD to fit into the sleeve bearing with some emery paper testing the fit as I went. The bronze sleeve bearings were an easy bench vise press into the pedal, the 16mm length is not a problem.

Mine has a Z J stamped on it, no other marks. It's from a 12/70 series 1.

Dang, I never find those kind of deals! Congratulations.

An update to this topic: I just spent the evening looking for bushings that will work without having to machine them. I have found some from asbbearingsonline.com that measure 15mm ID x 19mm OD and 16mm long. These will work with the 12mm x 15mm stainless tubing I have to replace the sleeve with. Should receive the bushings in a few days and will post results if they will work.

GV Z Car I just spent the evening looking for bushings that will work without having to machine them. I have found some from asbbearingsonline.com that measure 15mm ID x 19mm OD and 16mm long. These will work with the 12mm x 15mm stainless tubing I have to replace the sleeve with. Should receive the bushings in a few days and will let you know if they will work.

After looking at how the pedal pivots closer I think I need to replicate the original design. The sleeve is pinched by the mounting bolt and the bushes provide the pivoting motion on the sleeve.

I was not clear enough in my description of the problem. The hole for the pin that connects the pedal to the clutch master cylinder is worn only slightly. I'm talking about the bushings that the clutch pedal itself pivots on at its upper end. Where it is bolted into the pedal box. See the 240Z fiche section 97 Items number 22, 24 for the clutch pedal and item 3 and 5 for the brake pedal.

My clutch pedal pivot is severely worn and needs replacement. The problem that I am having is that the bushings for the clutch and brake pedal are NLA from Nissan , or least I have not found any. My idea is to replace the metal bushings with a bushing machined out of Delrin or possibly Teflon . It would be a one piece bushing drilled to 12MM for the pivot bolt and the OD sized to be a press fit into the clutch pedal tube (about .75"). Any thoughts if this will work, would wear be a problem? Any input would be appreciated.

That looks like rust where the bushing slips over the control arm. Some PB Blaster etc. in there will help, let it set upright so it will soak in. Grab the rubber with pliers and twist. I had one with Poly bushings that was a bear to get off because of the rust. Heat will also help if you get rid of the rubber first.