jwtaylor

I would not expect Maco to make it smooth for $400 bucks.

I do not beleive they have a kit that will cover all the connectors for one model year car. You will need to do an inventory of all the connectors you want to replace and then order enough to do it. One of the kits will give you a staring point only.

The mounting screws for the side marker lights were an issue on my car. I had to drill out the mounting screw hole slightly in the lamp body on one light. I think it ws a aftermarket replacement lamp that had the problem. John

Mine fell off years ago and a PO put screws in the drip rail to hold it in place. Finally took it off and cleaned the area, then MIG welded it back in place. Be forewarned that it is a pain in the rear to get the torch in there while standing on your head. You will need to pull the side panel and the rear carpeting at a minimum.

Sadly I do not believe these cars will ever have a lot of value, except for the earliest of the series 1 cars. There may also be some low mileage cars of latter years that can demand a high price based on condition/mileage but once your over 100k? I own a late series 1 (Dec. 1970) that has been modified slightly for better reliability primarily in the electrical area, value who knows/cares I did not buy it as an investment. I drive it and enjoy it. I agree with FastWoman do mods to make it reliable and fun to drive and do just that.

Beermanpete is correct, Fusible links, fuses and circuit breakers are there to protect the wiring from burning and starting fires. They are not there to protect the equipment (the load) at the end of the wire, but to prevent fires from an overloaded / shorted condition. I have seen the results of not using fusing in a large multiple motor control system that had a short in one motor that caused burnt wiring and damaged controllers throughout the system. The repairs cost many thousands of dollars and hours of work to repair.

As you may know these cars are prone to rust. Your battery area looks like it needs some attention. And the frame below it looks pretty bad too. Do not just go by the top surface of the foot wells, lots of rust can be hiding under the painted tar mat. I can see a ring on the underside to the carpet pad that shows rust, I would at least check that out. Otherwise looks like a good car to start with. I wish the paint on mine looked as good.

The latter 5 speed (82-83) also has a reverse lock out located on the drivers side and a few inches in front of the shifter. It looks like a diamond shaped plate with rounded corners.

Was that wheel from a wreck? It sure looks bad. It appears the outer part of the wheel has been pushed towards the front of the car. You may have to straighten that if it is. The rust down in the joints is a problem. It looks like it is holding the wood out away form the steel. There are ways to remove the rust by electrolysis that may not cause further damage to the wood. After cleaning the rust form the wheel I would use the epoxy and saw dust filler. Use a wood that is close to the color you want the wheel finished color to be. Paduak or Bloodwood are redish colored woods that may work.

Maybe some one was playing with it and pressed down to hard on it trying to keep it on the track?? :laugh:

Yes it appears squished (lowered). Also the lower body line down the side is not a wedge shape on the real car.

Assuming the carbs were correctly tuned for Colorado's elevation and then moving the car to a new elevation you should re-tune the carbs. With EFI this is not a problem as they can adjust for it. Carbs you have to re-tune to adjust for the change.

My 240Z has a Mallory Unilite system. Was in the car when I bought it in '98. Never have had any problems with it. Tach works correctly. Looks like they run about $450 now days.

What material did you use to make your firewall insulator? I need to make some also.

This is on a 12/70 build series 1 240z. There is no spar frame on the wiper motor side. The other side only has one small strut in that area. You can just see it in the corner of this picture. It was still a pain to get the old sealer out from the firewall and the air duct, if a frame is on that side in the later cars I feel for you guys trying to dig it out. I got this all resealed and tested the other day - no more water from the seam.:laugh: But I have found that there is some small leaks around the firewall grommets that I need to seal. I have also noticed that the factory had put seam sealer on the bottom of that seam (inside of the firewall in the cabin) all the way across from side to side. This had also failed and let the water into the cabin. To repair I need to pull the firewall pad, which is falling apart.

That should have been "... NOT spent much time on salted or gravel roads and has spent most if not all of it's life in the California.

Yes, small world isn't it. Been here since the mid 80's.

My Series 1 240 has never had undercoat and the underside is in good condition. It has the same orange on the bottom as everywhere else. Of course it has spent much time on salted or gravel roads and has spent most if not all of it's life in the California.

I have that very seam sealer to use when I am ready to reseal it. For now I have treated all the minor surface rust with some rust converter, need to let it dry a couple of days befor sealing and painting.

I agree with you. In my case the amount of material in that area was up over the panel seam, just above the red line. I'm thinking that dam it created directed the water onto the top of the seam. The seam sealer had failed on both sides of the fresh air duct just past the black goop they used for the dam. In any case I have not found any rust on the bottom panel.

That's a good one Bryan.

I have found the source of my leak, see the cracked sealer in the photo. There is a gap between the firewall and cowl bottom of about 1/16" where the wiper motor sets. Although I have quite a bit of surface rust on the inside of the firewall panel the metal under the black bog looks good and solid. I need to finish the clean up and treat the rust and reseal. Overall it does not look as bad as what I expected. There appears to be some writing and some embossed marks on the end of the fresh air tube. Anyone else noticed these? I'm thinking about removing the tube by cutting the top out of the cowl area, drilling the spot welds holding the tub. Then re welding it all back together after it's all cleaned up.

Try the factory diagram, it is available for download on the net.

And could you really buy a 1977 Porsche 911 Carrera Turbo for $2697? That sounds to cheap. I should have bought one.

I'm watching this thread as I have a persistent leak at the firewall on the passengers side. The factory seam sealer in the seam where the bottom panel connects to the firewall is loose. I have dug it out and resealed the drivers side with good results. I can also see the big glob of black sealer by the fresh air intake and down that side. I need to remove that cover to see it better.