jwtaylor

Check out http://www.licenseplates.tv/california-147.html Numbers and California are embossed.

Zs-ondabrain: Dave, The second picture you posted above caught my eye. Do you happen to have a picture of the manifold side? Any other info for curious? John Sorry for the double post. JT

Hey Dave, That second picture you posted is not exactly a common set up for our Z's. Do have a picture of the manifold side? It looks very interesting.

Out of round tire? Had this once on an old VW Beetle would only be noticeable at slow speed. Whole front of the car would waddle from side to side or up and down depending on how the tires were phased to each other. New tires eliminated the problem.

You could also check out some of the electronics suppliers. www.digikey.com for example.

Do you have a water or oil leak dripping on the exhaust?

My 240 clock is always right 2 times a day. Always has been and always will be!

In California the seller is normally responsible for smog compliance/testing unless you took over the testing as part of the purchase. Not having it done by the seller can open a very large can of worms as it appears you are finding out. I would check the engine/head numbers to find out what you have and then go form there to figure out what you need for smog controls.

I would do as FastWoman suggested above. You will not have any nipples on the firewall though if you z is an early version. Just tape up / plug the hoses in the engine bay that go through the firewall.

I think you all missed the point - He wants to standout! The car is just a tool to do that and if he can get everyone talking about him that's what it is about. Best solution is to ignore him.

12/70 build HLS30-16502 registered as a 1971

When I first bought my 240 I had this same problem. A re-torque of the head did not stop it. I kept a close eye on it and after a couple of years the gasket blew. The head was warped, most likely overheated by the PO at some point. I had another head ready to go so down time not to long.

You just need to solder the Fuse holder portion to the bus bar. If you get it hot enough and use a good flux the solder will be pulled into the space between the parts. You could also heat the top of the rivet and flow a little solder around its head as a little extra protection. Use a good electronics rosin core solder or a electronics flux and solder. Stay away from acid based fluxes! I did mine about 10 years ago and had not had any more problems with fuse heating.

Looks like the current patch is probably making it worse as water / snow / slush gets in between the panel and the patch. It also looks a lot bigger than the area you painted with the POR-15. Keep it dry and repair as soon as you can.

A good reference for battery information is http://www.batteryfaq.org/ The battery state of charge table is very help full, if your battery is reading around 12 volts your at 25 to 0 % charge. Battery SoC table.xls

Masking tape residue can be a real pain to deal with, I don't think the duck tape would work unless the old tape is tacky. You need a solvent that will remove it and leave the base plastic intact. Goo-gone and good old WD40 have been recommended for this. I would do a small test first to see how the plastic holds up before covering the whole thing. If your going to polish the lens you may be able to scrape the residue off gently with a razor blade and then polish/buff to remove the small scrapes from the razor blade.

I'm looking for any leads as to where one can purchase connectors that will mate to my early 240 harness. The blade type connectors are the ones I'm looking for. I bought some from http://www.eagleday.com/blco.html but sadly they do not mate with the ones on my harness. The dimensions of the body of the connector is wrong - to large by a small amount. I have also found these http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm by searching the forums. Does anyone know if these will mate up? Any other leads to a source would be welcome. Thanks, John

I was told to check out 'Speedi-sleeve' over at zcar. It looks like it would work, but you would have to remove it to remove/replace the input bearing. Might give it a try if I can't find a good 5 speed around. John

Thanks Arne! Yes, the 4 speed is a 'dog leg' Type A. Well I guess it's time to find another 5 speed then, or at least a newer 4 speed. Thanks again.

Is it possible to use the input shaft from an early 4 speed to replace the input shaft on a '82/83 5 speed? The 5 speed input shat is scored where the seal sets. I would like to rebuild the 5 speed so it can be reinstalled in place of the 4 speed, which has a bad 3rd gear synchro and bearings a getting a little loud also.