jwtaylor

I have a manual for the Mallory Unilite distributor that is on my car. I think it's out in the storage shed, I'll look for it tomorrow when it's light out.

All clothing should be cotton while welding. NO plastic based fabrics while welding. The plastic based stuff will melt to your skin and pull whats left of your skin off with it with it. I've been known to weld with sandals on and have the scars to prove it. Not smart! Eastwood also makes a good MIG135 that is on sale often for less than $300. I have one, no complaints about it.

Well stated Captain Obvious!

The original 918 orange is rather bright as I have found while stripping mine. Many have been resprayed in various shades of orange when repainted (Mine was done in a darker shade of orange). With a low serial number car it may be best to stick to the stock colors, resale wise. Personally I would paint it the color or variant that I like and not worry about it.

I agree with the 27 ohm number

Thank you Zed Head and SteveJ. I knew someone would have the answer. I was an electronics technician in my former working life and do know the color codes. The Bad Boys Rape... is the one I learned as a teenager and still use.

Thanks for the input Zed Head. In some of the drawings in the EFI Bible it is shown as a resistor. I was assuming that it was there as a current limit for the switch in the air flow meter or ECU. I'm not sure if it is a real resistor or not, may be time to do some experimenting.

The 280 fuel injection relay schematic shows a resistor connected to relay pin 86b. This pin connects to the Air Flow meter fuel pump switch and the ECU pin 20. Does anyone know the value of this resistor? I purchased fairly complete 280Z fuel injection system primarily for the manifold and throttle body and would like to play with it, but am missing the relay. I'm planing to build a replacement relay as I do not want to spend the $$ for one. I am planning to go to a Megasquirt EFI in the future so buying a new stock relay would be waste of money.

Can you see pins on the inside of the fender? If not most likely glued on. Heat and a putty knife or maybe some fishing line should do it.

Since the sale information is Vallejo, CA this has to be one of the many cars burnt up in the wildfires in northern California this fall. Sad sight to see really, best wishes to the former owner.

I bought my 12/70 240Z in 1998 and drove it as a daily driver for the next 14 years, about 54 miles a day. Started at about 65000 and added about another 160000. Engine still running strong. It's currently getting some rust repair work done so I can get it painted. Hope to be back on the road next summer.

You will need a steel wire that will harden to do this. Maybe you could bend them up from music wire if you can get the correct diameter wire.

Have you checked the bulb to see if it's the correct one and intact? Filaments do fail.

And even if you did grow up around it it's hard to tolerate the smell any more. The same for cigarette smoke.

I have 12/70 series one car with '73 seats. Bolt right up.

Yes buy another, it's good for the economy. Since you removed the tape the adhesion has been compromised and it will fall off sooner than if you had left it alone. There is never a reason to mess with things that are working.

I would be very cautious about using any form of acid for cleaning. That acid will be wicked up onto the stranded wire in the crimp and on up the wire to cause corrosion in the wire itself. I have replaced too many wires in my life, working on industrial control equipment, that has been exposed to just water and has corrosion running up in the wire. You start stripping the insulation off to crimp a connector on and will find yourself several feet back before you find clean bright wire again. The denatured alcohol will displace some of the water but I would not trust it to get all of it. Now if you only dip the blade of the terminal I would think it might be OK, although I would use a product made for contact cleaning and avoid the acid.

Another option would be the Subaru WRX STI R180 rear differential. 2007 and newer are 3.545 ratio Torsen LSD. You would also need a set of output flange stub axles to match up to you current half shafts.

Is that an old Mouse Hole anvil? I have one from about 1835, it's a nice piece of iron.

I will buy a set of clips if you get them made. My car is missing one of them. My 12/70 build 240Z does not have the water diverter flap shown in post #4, it is just flat. Doesn't appear that they were ever there. Some stainless steel types can be hardened and tempered. (I'm not an expert though.)

That joint of the quarter panel to the roof cracks and is a common issue on the early 240's. Forty six years of flexing of this area has taken its toll. I've got the same cracks to repair. Nissan reinforced that area on the later cars. I've heard that the metal based fillers may work better in that area as they are able to flex more. I am planning to add Bad dog's rear frame connectors to help stiffen the of the car rear up. I recall reading that adding a roll bar to the rear will also help stop/control the flexing. My car has been repainted at least once and I also have the crazing in the paint. I used a razor blade to remove the top layer of paint and the crazing goes deeper. I'm planning to completely strip and go from there. Way to much filler in places also.

Note that it is easy to replace pedal rubber covers, unlike horses teeth, so don't put much faith in new/slightly worn looking pedal rubber pads. Sometimes the numbers do not quite line up on the speedometer after they rolled over 100000. But I wouldn't count on that either. Speedometers get changed also. So you just have to judge whether the car looks to be low miles or has been driven a lot. If there is documentation to the mileage that would be great but in the end there is really no way to know.

That hose should go to the PCV valve on the intake manifold. The hose from the top of the valve cover connects to the air cleaner. Search for 'PCV hose' From a quick search you may need to make up your own if you want the original style. E-bay has several listed.

This is great Mike, best quality scan I've seen. Thank you!

I want to see all the pictures. (Secretly I have thought about doing an engine swap also.)