jwtaylor

Just bought 2 front fenders for 104.95 each (plus shipping of 125.00 or 167.45 per fender) plus lots of little things at very cheap prices. Maybe I'll finely get my 240 back on the road. Do NOT tell the wife! she's been after me to sell it for years - NO WAY.

Most keep alive functions for radios/etc. don't use much power, so wire a small fuse (1 to 3 amp) off the battery directly to feed them. That will keep the power low enough not to allow starting the engine.

Yes you need the barrel nuts. Unless the new emblems came with them, look at the emblems and see it they are on the mounting posts. Most of the new emblems I have bought recently come with the barrel nuts.

The some types of black electrical tape adhesive will turn to a nasty sticky goo when exposed to some types of wire insulation, oils and heat. It may not be a problem here but I have had to repair and clean up that sticky mess before, not fun. Quality tape is worth the cost.

Maybe take it to a paint supply company and see if they can color match it?

double post

Yea, it was sad that they got a '73 that had starting problems. Actually, maybe that was done on purpose.

Knife makers use a 2 part screw together rivet to hold the scales on the knife handle. You may want to check them out. I've seen them in brass and silver metal. Check out these: http://usaknifemaker.com/knife-handle-parts/handle-hardware/corbys-rivets-loveless-others.html

45 years as a senior electronics technician here, that battery symbol is the same one that has been used for a battery for over a hundred years.

Eastwood Internal Frame Coating is a great product, but is very thin when applied and seems to end up everywhere. It will leak through the smallest of pin holes and make greenish spots on your yellow paint if you are not very careful. I did not try to clean up these "leaks" when I sprayed it so don't know if a quick wipe will remove it. I have not completed stripping my car yet even to get to primer. Perhaps a wax based sealer would work better for you.

I have an Eastwood 135 MIG welder that I got on sale for about $300. It's a good small 115 volt welder. I use 25/75 mix gas and get clean welds. I have not had any problems with it at all.

Temporary swings to the - side are normal, such as when at a stop light with the brakes on. After the engine speed is increased and brakes off it should swing positive + to recharge the battery. If your not seeing any movement it's either been removed from the circuit (bypassed) or is bad. On the 240s the shunt is in the meter. First thing I would do is check the connections to the amp meter, it should have a large wire to each of the shunt studs.

Thanks CanTechZ, That's the first reasonable explanation of the dates I've heard.

Mine is held on with pop rivets with a 4mm head. Pretty sure its never been off the car.

My 12/70 build 240Z only has 5 digits after the HLS30 stamped on the firewall or the ID plates for that mater. I do not think Nissan worried about having 6 digits. That data from Black Dragon also claims the production dates were 10/69 to 5/70 for the series one cars. So they built all the cars up to serial number 21000 by May of 1970 and then stamped build dates as they sold them? I find that hard to believe.

Thanks Jim.

When I fix (modify) something I make sketches. When done they get put into the Z folder. I never clean up the sketch or add notes - after all I fixed it. Strangely I can look at them and know what I was at least trying to do. I pity the next owner trying to understand what I did and why though.

Captian, That looks like a steel screw holding on the extendo contact, might that be a wear problem when the button wears down. Would not want the steel to eat into the contact ring. A brass screw might be a better solution.

Jim, Do you know where I can get/find those eyeball vents you used in the center vents from?

I really like this idea for center vents. Do you also have the side vents plumbed in. Are the gauges being moved to the old heater control panel area?

You say you welded it but that looks like solder. You should never solder something like this as it does not have the strength to hold together.

I'm pretty sure I used to have that also. I lost a lot of info I had saved due to a disk crash several years ago. I will keep looking, it might be on a cd backup.

Is this the file your looking for TomoHawk? S30_gauge_templates.zip

This what I added to my car for towing. Way overbuilt and very heavy. I had planed to add a lint to the differential mount but never have. More than likley I will just remove it as I have another vehicle to tow with now.

Yes.